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Discussion Starter #1
Here's what's going on--:help:
I have had to bypass the ballast resistor and fed a full 12v to an Accel superstock coil. The problem is the other day it seemed like the coil overheated. I was driving home when it sputtered and just shut off like I'd turned the key off. It wouldn't restart till about 10-15 minutes later (after it had cooled a little) and when it did it ran fine.
I know feeding it the full 12v will cause considerable heat (and sitting on top of the motor doesn't help), but I'm not sure of the best way to cool it down.
I was considering moving the coil from on top of the engine to the pass inner fender where it can get more airflow (and possibly keep it cooled down some), but I'm not sure if it will be enough.
Putting a ballast back in isn't really an option since the lowest resistance I can find is 0.8 ohm and it drops the voltage to 2.2v!:dunno:

This is the 87 D150 318 I had to convert from SCC to the old style ignition system.
 

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1. Which model coil do you have?
2. Why did you bypass ballast resistor?
3. Voltage with ballast resistor in place GOING TO THE COIL seems correct.
4. You normally do not need HIGH VOLTAGE GOING TO THE COIL!!!
5. Install proper Ballast resistor before you COOK THE COIL!!!
 

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you should read through some of his older threads. it would answer a lot of questions that you are asking. he bypassed the ballast resister because it was the only way to get the truck started. i think he used the universal Accel superstock coil.

the ballast resister should be 1.2 ohm. when i tested mine cold it says 1.6ohm and i have never tested i while it was hot. i have never really like the accel coils since i discovered the one that came with my truck was what was causing my truck to run like crap and kill spark plugs.

i wonder if the guy that did the wiring forgot to hook up a start circuit. i have started my 91 without the start circuit but it took a lot longer than it would with the start circuit. there should be terminal on the starter relay with the word BAL by it. that should run 12v to the positive side of the coil when you are trying to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1. Which model coil do you have?
2. Why did you bypass ballast resistor?
3. Voltage with ballast resistor in place GOING TO THE COIL seems correct.
4. You normally do not need HIGH VOLTAGE GOING TO THE COIL!!!
5. Install proper Ballast resistor before you COOK THE COIL!!!
1. Accel superstock yellow canister type
2. The truck WILL NOT run with a resistor.
3. 2.2v to the coil with a .8ohm res. is correct? I may not know everything, but I know that is WAY too low.
4. I know high voltage isn't needed most of the time, but this truck WILL NOT run with a resistor.
5. The truck WILL NOT run with a resistor. The lowest resistance ballast I can get only lets the coil get 2.2v!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you should read through some of his older threads. it would answer a lot of questions that you are asking. he bypassed the ballast resister because it was the only way to get the truck started. i think he used the universal Accel superstock coil.

the ballast resister should be 1.2 ohm. when i tested mine cold it says 1.6ohm and i have never tested i while it was hot. i have never really like the accel coils since i discovered the one that came with my truck was what was causing my truck to run like crap and kill spark plugs.

i wonder if the guy that did the wiring forgot to hook up a start circuit. i have started my 91 without the start circuit but it took a lot longer than it would with the start circuit. there should be terminal on the starter relay with the word BAL by it. that should run 12v to the positive side of the coil when you are trying to start it.
You're right about the coil Wolfie. I had 1.2 ohm res, but it was only letting 1.3v to the coil. The .8 ohm I tried still only let the coil get 2.2v!:huh:

He had a start wire hooked up to the starter relay on the fender. That's why it would only fire when cranking since it was getting the full 12v. It just wouldn't run because the res. wasn't letting the coil get the voltage it needed.
 

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i am still wondering if the mechanic messed up the wiring. did you ever just try running power though the ballast resister without it being hooked up to the coil. there is only about a .2 volt difference until i hooked up the wire to the coil which is when it drops down to 7.5 volts. the wire from the coil has .60 volts when not hooked up to the to the ballast resister.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm confident he got the wiring right. Every diagram I've found shows it hooked up exactly how he has it (aside from the start wire being spliced into the relay). I never did check it without the coil hooked up, but the voltage I got was was with the key on and the res. in place on the positive side of the coil. I also tested it at the coil side terminal of the res. and got the same reading. It just seems like having a resistor drops the voltage too much.
 

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I guess I should have asked what model coil it is, Accel makes many different model coils. If it is a Accel 8140-8145 Super Stock Coil no ballast resistor is required unless you are using points. Accel uses an internal resistor in these coils.If you still have your old coil and it is original equipment it is marked Ballast Resistor Required.
Coils, do to thier nature, generate heat on thier own.The higher the voltage the more heat.
I would move this coil to the fenderwell.
Mount it straight up and down, this insures that the cooling oil inside the coil covers the windings. These coils are prone to problems because of the internal resistor and heat buildup
 

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that would still not explain why his truck would not run with a ballast resister. when i first bought my 81 is had a universal accel super stock 8140 and it ran but ran like crap most of the time and it seemed to kill spark plugs. i ended up just installing a spare coil i had sitting around and it ran way better all the time and not just some of the time.
 

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High output coils are not necessary for normal driving. To jump a .035 spark gap only requires app 10000 V. Anything over that is hiding or creating other problems, ie Burnt plugs. One needs to change Heat range of plugs, Good wires, rotor and cap. All that adds $$$$$. And the question then is if your not turing over 6000 RPM why do it ???
 

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Wolfie simple answer to your last post without being there,Wiring, Ballast resistor,bad ground on ECU,or bad ECU. He swaped Ignitions you had mentioned wiring but he was sure it was right
 

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The Ballast Resistor limits voltage to the coil during low speed but allows it to increase as engine speed increases.
When engine is cranking B-R is bypassed to give good voltage thru coil.Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I have new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, distributor and the Accel super stock coil (not sure which model). The plugs are AC delco platinum and I believe the wires are 7mm replacements. the cap, rotor, and dist are all factory replacements.
I will get the coil moved as soon as I can get the wire kit. (A universal make-your-own plug wire kit with a 60" wire and multiple ends).
Should I open the gap on the plugs to take advantage of the hotter spark? Or would that just create excess engine heat?

Edit-- It looks like it is an Accel 8140M coil. At least that's the only model Advance carries and that's where I got it.

Brand-ACCEL
Manufacturer's Part Number-8140M
Part Type-Ignition Coils
Product Line-ACCEL SuperStock Ignition Coils
Summit Racing Part Number-ACC-8140M
UPC-743047761724

Coil Wire Attachment-Female/Socket
Coil Style-Canister
Primary Resistance-1.400 ohms
Coil Internal Construction-Oil-filled
Coil Color-Yellow/Brown
Maximum Voltage-42,000 V
Turns Ratio-94:1
Secondary Resistance-9.2K ohms
Mounting Bracket Included-No
Coil Wire Included-No
Ballast Resistor Included-No
Coil Shape-Round
Diameter (in)-2.449 in.
Height (in)-6.246 in.
 

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No need to increase gap on plugs. You have a" bone stock " 318, 8.5 compression, about 150hp 2bbl. By increasing gap you would just increase the arc of the spark, not the size of the explosion. Next time you change plugs you may want to change heat range of plug.
 

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To keep it cool use a very long wire and mount coil on the dash where the A/C will blow on it.
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a lot of room on the pass. fender. The only thing mounted there is the windshield washer bottle. That was where I was considering mounting it if I can get the wire kit soon, just wasn't sure if it would help or not.
 

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A few pointers:
1. The ballast bypass to increase voltage for starting only (~9 volts) and has nothing to do with rpm.
2. If the coil overheats magnetic flux won't occur causing no spark.
3. The stock coil has about 1.2 ohm primary and ~10,000 ohms on the secondary with a ballast of about 0.8 ohms.
4. I considered moving the coil on my van because it's at the rear under the doghouse, but replacing it with an Allison coil years ago was sufficient.
5. Give it the shake test to determine if the oil has leaked out, it conducts the heat to the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's a brand new coil so the oil should be fine. The main issues I have is the fact that I have to give it full voltage creating a lot of heat. Couple that with engine heat and it's a recipe for failure.
 
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