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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I have an 02 2500 diesel 4x4. The steering has always been loose. Recently it has become very bad very quick. I have new ball joints. You can move the steering wheel a good 3" in both directions before the steering box moves the wheels. It has been adjusted once before. Is it worth adjusting again or should I just get a rebuilt on. Also, there is lots of movement in the trackbar so i'm sure thats bad.
 

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MYTYT
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Sounds like the steering box is shot. According to my front end guy, a man with 30+ years in the buisness, the CTD trucks are hard on steering boxes. Not only from the added weight of the CTD, but also from the vibration a diesel engine produces.

I would let someone that knows about boxes try adjusting it. They can tell you for sure if its bad.

The track bar sounds like its bad as well. Depends on how much "alot" actually is. If you get under the truck, with the truck turned off, & the parking brake applied, have a buddy move the steering wheel back & forth. If the track bar has play on either end, its bad. My old one would literally "jump" on the frame side.

Good luck!
 

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Woodstock
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I agree with bigmacdak. You should get this taken care of quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yea, its really really scary on the interstate. I think i'm just going to replace the box, last time I got it adjusted the guy said he got as good as it would get
without replacing it, and it still had a little play even then. Any ideas on a replacement for either part??
 

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Big Green
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search internet for red head steering gears it is a awesome box and cheaper than factory and way better than local auto parts I absolutely love mine. Also for the trac bar try a luke's link they life time guarantee they will send the parts to rebuild if it goes bad this is only if stock height. I have a 2000 2500 V10 so same front end
 

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when steer gear cant be adjusted anymore, they are junk. for a track bar idea look at a "windecker machine.com" bracket 3rd gen bar retro. loose the ball joint! or just look into my gallery.
 

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A worn trac bar will quickly destroy/wear "all 4 ball joints and both outer tie rod ends". If you plan on keeping CTD truck, consider something way better than a stock T bar(I think its a DANA with a 1-5/8"hiem joint at the frame). It was a year ago that I searched this stuff, but I would only consider a Lukes Link C-type? adjustable repair(shimable, looks like a headache) if the 1-5/8" joint is only slightly worn, is only lady driven, and only with a gas engine. I WOULD NOT USE IT WITH A CTD. IDK about Lukes newer products.
If keeping CTD truck, you would do very well to search "steering stabilizers", and "trac bars"(DarrenSS,WINDECKER machine,THUREN, and many more).
SPUN360. X2. I also like the stock "3G"Tbar(rubber both ends), it will need an adapter at frame,($200???).
Searching these areas, you will find many good options: Tbars with replaceable ends(need adapter), and Steering Stabilizers that prolong sector shaft/steering box life, while providing much needed stiffnes to correct "steering box/frame deflection" on the 2G, especially with the CTD(installs so that sector shaft remains "centered and supported").
At the time, I wasn't sure about keeping my ram, so I bought the MOOG Tbar(2"double gusher). The only grease it ever sees is "AMS moly #2".
Rubber joints should initally be installed finger tight; DO NOT TIGHTEN OR TORQUE until all the vehicles weight is on the ground(FLAT).
 

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let me add & emphasize to that; rubber eyelets like the leaf spring eyelets also found in the track bars should only be finger tight till the vehicles full weight in on them!!!. over rotation will occur to that joint which is too tight prior to load! meaning the new eyelets will RIP right around. quick way to ruin new track and leaf spring joints!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I have a BD steering box stabilizer already, I think the box is my biggest problem at the moment. I looked at the thuren track bar, looks pretty hefty but $$$$.
 

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Not to jack, but you guys are fresh on the topic; today, a 1/4"of play suddenly showed up at my steering wheel. When stopped at a light, this play seems to have a "ever so slight" bounce/return/sticky/hydraulic type feel to it. Is this a bad sign?(last winter it didn't always want to "return to center" after making a left turn, but that went away, and has been good till now)
 

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Replace the track bar immediately! If you want cheap, get a Moog for $199. It will last maybe 1-2 years if not off-roaded. If you want a solid bar, get a Thuren. Mine is now so tight that it jars me over bumps. Feels as tight as a IFS front end. THEN get the box replaced with a REDHEAD box. Should correct all your problems.
 

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Big Green
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I ran a luke's link on my 2500 v10 same set up as the CTD for many years back when I actually wheeled my truck and I loved it it lasted longer than the other trac bars I put in. I never rebuilt it in 3 years and the others I replaced every year. Some might not like it but ask those who have ran them. After I lifted my truck I gave my trac bar to a 1500 owner and guess what he is still driving on that trac bar. I say that was the best investment I ever made and I beat the crap out of it. Just make sure to follow the directions when installing.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Humm, I think I might try the luke, for the price its hard to beat. Do you have to send your box to redhead for them to rebuild it or do you just exchange it?
 

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Exchange. You pay a core charge until swapped.
 

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thuren is a good bar, still with a ball joint.
 

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Big Green
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If I was going to use the Thuren I would use the adaptor kit and put a 3rd gen trac bar on it. Also Rock Krawler makes a trac bar too I run one of them cheeper but nice the same.
 

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I WISH I WAS GREEN
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Im getting the DT Pro Fab bar. Should be a set and forget bar, but unless you have gone crazy as some of us with your truck a lunk link kit should work fine. The BD brace is a great mod. Ive been told that one of the chevy PSC gearboxes is a direct swap on gennII rams and I have heard nothing but the best about them(also hear really good things about the Red boxs). One thing that has not be talked about yet that I would check is your OEM steering shaft. They are crap. I got a Borgison(sp?) shaft that has yet to go in but it looks good and strong. If it too short(I have a 3in BL) im just going to have a weld shop just it and and 3in. Good luck and let us know what you did and how it turned out.

Its not cheap but ive heard good things and its what im going with. I cant wait for it to show up!!!

http://www.dtprofab.com/DT_DODGE 1.htm


gearbox PSC. You might want to call them first and ask them.

PN SG-841M (it looks right to me)

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/sg841m-8800-gm-trucksuv-steering-gear-p-112.html

article that used the gear box from PSC they also have pump PN listed.

http://4wheeloffroad.automotive.com/75256/131-0806-1994-2002-dodge-ram-steering-upgrade/index.html
 
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