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Discussion Starter #1
well i have a o7 ram quad cab with hemi ever since ive owned it it had a a small nosie when starting up an went away when warm thought it was stainless exhaust expanding but now its coldan holy moly thats a loud pop sounds like backfire or someone hitting motor with a large hammer threw check engine so took it to dealer of cousre motor was warm so they said threw misfire on all cylinders an some number 4 stood out to them but ran fine an checked plugs an said couldnt find out what was wrong so they sent me home (i guess im an idiot an dont know what im hearing) so of course it made the noise the next moring which was saturday then sunday of cousre it did monday morning so go out on monday drop it off so they can start it cold themselfs i call this afternoon an they tell me they think it has a broken valve spring but have to run cleaner threw it an test it again retartedthey would think it would have that much carbon at 9000 miles but what do i know. there had to be a way to check number 4 cylinder before i drove all weekend a risk more damage
i guess that would explain my poor gas mileage first 1300 mile i got 19.3 not broke in then after that im lucky to get 16 an it would tell me where my 1.5 quart of oil disappeard to between oil changes
 

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There is no good way to check for a broken valve spring beside opening it up but a broken valve spring would give you problems even when warm. It sounds more like a sticking valve, they go away when it warms up, when the engine is cold the metal shrinks and the valve gets pinched in the guide. It can be from carbon build up in the guide or the guide was not reamed to the right size. running cleaner through it will not fix a broken spring but it would maybe remove the carbon and eliminate a sticky valve. I would be worried that the stuck valve it getting hit by the piston.
 

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piper18 said:
There is no good way to check for a broken valve spring beside opening it up but a broken valve spring would give you problems even when warm. It sounds more like a sticking valve, they go away when it warms up, when the engine is cold the metal shrinks and the valve gets pinched in the guide. It can be from carbon build up in the guide or the guide was not reamed to the right size. running cleaner through it will not fix a broken spring but it would maybe remove the carbon and eliminate a sticky valve. I would be worried that the stuck valve it getting hit by the piston.
Agreed, Make sure they check the tops of the pistons for damage...they can use a scope through the plug hole. Also I'm not sold on the cleaner idea either. Yes, if it is a stuck valve removing the carbon will free it up again...but for how long? It only took about 1300 miles before it started this problem the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
well i am concerened about the piston but do you think the dealer is gonna be honest with me? i could show you how loud it was but i have to down load it from my phone but i promise you it was loud thats why im concerned something that loud has to be a bad sign im trying to figure out how to load the video on here so you can judge for yourself
 

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Discussion Starter #5
anyone interested in hearing email me ill email it to you thanks
 

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If the valve is hit by the piston, that is not a real load noise or will it be a hard knock that you fell since the mass of the valve is small. If there is a load noise it would be from the backfire. The concern with a valve being hit is, did the valve get bent or did the piston get indented to where a crack can start. If the valve gets bent, that can be seen with a borescope or by doing a compression check.
 

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kelwintodd said:
well i am concerened about the piston but do you think the dealer is gonna be honest with me? i could show you how loud it was but i have to down load it from my phone but i promise you it was loud thats why im concerned something that loud has to be a bad sign im trying to figure out how to load the video on here so you can judge for yourself
Thats a good question. Dealership shops really aren't any different than the shop down the street--they just have a franchise agreement with the manufacture but are allowed to "operate" there shop how they see fit, within the confines of the agreement of corse. So with that latitude you can run the gamut as far as quality goes. There are some shops that I wouldn't let check that air in my tires and conversely there are shops that I would be comfortable dropping off my truck and simply telling them "fix it please." and go on my merry way.

If you feel that your not being treated well make sure you document everything. Have them note on your invoice that you suspect that the piston may have contacted the valve numerous times. At least that way if your engine fails later down the road you can show them why and that it covered under the warranty as an on-going and un-resolved issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
getting good info i am going to document that i have had a problem with that cylinder an too the piston noise not being loud the noise was loud at cold start but when warm there was a slight tick so now i am concerned my guess is that s alot of work an im guessing the mechnic might be lazy instead if really checking every possible problem
 

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At this point they don't know for sure what is really wrong, they are just going by what the computer is telling them is wrong and guessing from past experience.

From past experience I can tell you they don't use common sense, They will try the cheap fix first and then work up from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well the dealer finally tore apart the motor an have gave me their verdict , it was carbon build up they say i saw the head tore apart an there was lots of carbon so they decided to rebuild the head which i saw the valves out for number 4 cylinder so my guess is they dont know whats wrong still why rebuild a head for carbon build up when they could just clean it
an get this, somehow this is my fault the service writer said im suppose to run the motor over 3300 rpms once in awhile so the valves get clean so i repleyed thats the first time ive ever heard a manfacture tell you to abuse your vehicle i have 11000 miles an 9 of them are highway doing 80 mph spped limit where i live is 75 shouldnt that keep them clean?
 

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my truck make a bang/clunk/popping sound when its cold...but ive narrowed it down to being related to the heater. if i start my truck with the heater off i can start driving fine, but then as soon as i turn the heater on it'll make the sound

more annoying than anything, but its never thrown a code...although once it did shut the power off to the radio, guages and HVAc controls. ..restrated the truck and all was fina again
 

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1st. Are they paying to fix it? Sounds to me like they are trying to stick you with the bill. Hope thats not right.

2nd. You need a second opinion. I don't care if you luged that thing 11,000 miles at 25 mph you shouldn't have very much build up at all. Sounds like a leaky fuel injector or a bad sensor of some sort that is causing the engine to be over fueled. Whatever it is, it's not your fault for driving it like a normal person; your right, something doesnt jive! :huh:
 

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Does it say somewhere in the owners manual to take it and run the crap out of the motor every once in a while? If it doesn't, it can't be your fault. They have to show that you did something wrong that is explained in the manual. The only thing that I can see that remotely can contribute to this problem is running mobile 1 which was different that what was original to the truck. I have switched to mobile 1 and the manual does give some guidance to the grade of oil you can use, in the form of it has to met the minimum SAE standards
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no there not trying to get me to pay for it, im gonna ask the guy who building the head whats wrong with it, what their opinion is,
ive read the owners manual i ve never seen anything saying run it over 3300 ym thought is the mds shuts off the spark but not the gas fast enough or something to that affect im still not sure
 

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Is the carbon on the head side or the rocker side? If its the rocker side, how you run the engine will not affect carbon build up like that. The only thing that has any affect on that side is type of oil, wear of the guides and how hot the engine is running.
 

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piper18 said:
Does it say somewhere in the owners manual to take it and run the crap out of the motor every once in a while? If it doesn't, it can't be your fault. They have to show that you did something wrong that is explained in the manual. The only thing that I can see that remotely can contribute to this problem is running mobile 1 which was different that what was original to the truck. I have switched to mobile 1 and the manual does give some guidance to the grade of oil you can use, in the form of it has to met the minimum SAE standards

In my 04 manual, it does say to full throttle every now and again to help seat the rings.
 

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Thats for breaking in the engine. Once the rings are seated in there would be no need to keep doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the carbon was on valve side the piston were even all black only one you could see the piston an only half of it though
 

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Discussion Starter #19
wow this is getting real interesting i just talked to the shop today an said the machine shop said there was nothing wrong with the head so the mechanic called dodge an they are confused so they are sending a new pcm thinking that the misfire is from there something like soder joints being cold then warming up. sounds like to me that its gonna be in the shop for awhile getting lots of new parts cause there just pissing in the wind nowm i think there something wrong with the fuel injectors ot pump putting into much gas who knows i just hope there making next months payment
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well got my truck back today an they figured out the pcm was bad an wasnt making the mds work right
 
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