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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For anyone that's had an axle rebuilt, how much did it cost you (ball park estimate is ok)?

Dana 60 front axle from a 94-01 2500 or 3500 should be a direct bolt in, correct? Rear should need new spring perches (2.5" wide for 1500 and 3" wide for 2500 and 3500) correct?

How much for a re-gear, and re-build?

I just read up on a thread in the Performance Section in regards to a stroker kit, and some top end work on a 360. Looks like a BUILT 360 would run about $3500. That's kinda ball parkin it in regards to how much all the axle work is going to cost.

Now, most of the D60's I've run across have either 4.10 or 4.56 gears. Rather than going so low with the 5.13's in the D60's, I could save myself the extra $1500 for the re-gear, and go get the junkyard 360 core for a couple hundred and start working my way to a bad ass motor..... Drive around with the 4.10 or 4.56 gears that come with the D60's, and just deal with the lack of power until the motor's built, then drop it in.

Thoughts?
 

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I had new gears installed in the front and rear with a detroit locker in the rear, but I also had to buy a new axle housing because one of the bearing races had worn itself into the housing so for the front and rear and the new housing it cost me $3,400. It would have been about $2,300 without the new housing. I wish I would have upgraded to the dana 60's like your thinkin about because they are stronger and you can tow more, plus you can run big tires and not have to worry about chewing up your axles, but i didn't because I would have had to buy new wheels too and i just don't have that kinda money. As far as the front dana 60 replacing the 44 I've heard that you can swap them out and everything will be the same, but you will have to buy new wheels to match the lug pattern, not sure what it is.
 
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I have heard the same thing as mentioned above. That the D60 is a direct replacement except for the lug pattern; Which could cause problem for most people b/c of the extra cash. If you look on ebay Clay, there is a really good deal on an old King Pin D60 too. If I wasn't about to purchase this rear end, I would snag that up. I know there is a rear and front end combo going for 1500, that is a D60 King Pin upfront, and 14bolt in the rear. Just needs disc brakes on the rear. I would look into that if you are considering swaping out the front. No reason not to just knock them both out at the same time, save alot of time and hassle later.

But what about the rear end? I know it's a 9.25, but I have a good deal on GM 14 Bolt(Full Float,4.56 gears,Detroit Locker, Disc Brakes) It's a 10.5 I believe, and I was wondering if there were anyproblems that I would encounter with this swap? If I'm not mistaken there have been many people doing a D70 rear and I thought these deminions were pretty close to the 14 bolt. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I dont know if there would be any problems with this swap. The companion flange that connects the rear end to the drive shaft might be different and the only other other thing i can think of is tying the gm brakes and the dodge system together and i'm not sure what the lug pattern is on the gm but if you stay with the 44 up front then you wouldnt be able rotate your tires unless you pulled them off the rims. I'm sure there is someone that has done this and i bet they make all the mods you would need for this conversion. Let us know what you find out.
 
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I plan on going with a D60 up front also. I don't see the flange as being a big deal, it should be a pretty easy and basic bolt on swap hopefully. But as you know when working on things, something always go unexpected.
 

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Ain't that the truth, thats why I always expect projects to take at least twice as long as they say it should and a trip to the hardware store
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been considering the 14 bolt rear end for a while too. There's a TON of them out there, and they're all cheap. Parts galore on top of that. Not to mention their dang near bomb proof. The lug pattern isn't a big deal, more of an inconvienience than anything. And when we're talking about dropping $2k for axles, another $200 for wheels aint a big deal.

Some of the issues I've heard with dropping the 14 bolt in the rear is not so much the initial cost of the axle. Rather you have to remove the spring perches, etc and weld new ones on there. As mentioned, the "companion flange" is also a little speed bump, but not a big deal. Not too long ago, there was a company on ebay doing a BUILT 14 bolt with disk brakes and a Detroit for $800 plus shipping. Damn if my credit card wasn't maxed out!!!

For the 60 front, again, the bolt pattern is a inconvienince, more so than a problem. I've found D60's online for around $1200 complete from rotor to rotor. And I've seen 'em go for as low as $800 for the rears. These are both factory take outs (read... insurance wrecks that have been totaled out and are being sold for parts). I'd like to keep the D60's both front and rear if for no other reason than to keep the same bolt pattern.

The thing I'm worried about with these factory take outs is the condition that their in when they arrive. I'd hate to drop $1200 for a D60 front and have to pay another $400 for a rebuild. As it is, I'm going to TRY and do gears at the same time I swap 'em in, but that's all going to depend on the bank account. Just doesn't make a lot of sense to pay for labor more than once (assuming the rear spring perches have to be removed and re-welded for 2.5" springs).

Mike - $2300 I guess is fairly reasonable for a rebuild and regear with a locker. But that $3400 HURTS!!! That's just about the price of a ProRock60 front axle built to your specs!
 

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Yeah I've seen the prorock60 but it was my rear housing that was messed up. If I had it to do all over again I'd put 60's in the front and rear and just get new wheels. This is off the subject but with 3" spacer in the front does your front end sit higher than the rear and with that much lift do you have any problems with your driveline?
 
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Yeah, I'm actually buying the 800$ built 14 bolt off of ebay. It's the same company.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mikeah169 said:
Yeah I've seen the prorock60 but it was my rear housing that was messed up. If I had it to do all over again I'd put 60's in the front and rear and just get new wheels. This is off the subject but with 3" spacer in the front does your front end sit higher than the rear and with that much lift do you have any problems with your driveline?
Initially, yes, it was about an inch +/- higher in the front. I installed a 1 1/2" ProComp thin add-a-leaf and it leveled it out nicely.

When I initially added the coil spacers to the lift, my front pinion angle was FUBAR. I had to adjust the upper control arms quite a bit to put the front pinion pointing where it needs to be. Since then, no issues, binding, etc. My biggest problem thus far has been the PITA it's been to find extended length stainless brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mayo5 said:
Yeah, I'm actually buying the 800$ built 14 bolt off of ebay. It's the same company.
Have you already bought the unit? Or are you at least in talks with the gent? I'm curious how much it's going to cost with the spring perches, and shock mounts welded in the proper location.... or is that something that you plan on doing once YOU get the axle? And does that also include R&P of choice?

TIA (again)
 
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Have you already bought the unit? Or are you at least in talks with the gent? I'm curious how much it's going to cost with the spring perches, and shock mounts welded in the proper location.... or is that something that you plan on doing once YOU get the axle? And does that also include R&P of choice?
No I haven't bought it just yet, I'm awaiting his reply on shipping information.
As for the Spring Perches and Shock mounts, I'm going to wait and do those once I get the axle. No the R&P is kinda a choice, he said he is willing to change the gear ratio for you, but at an additional price. He is also putting on a size 1410 Yoke for me, from a 1350. I expect the shipping to be the big devastater. But it's still a good price for the security of your vehicle, especially off road.

As far as your brake lines,
http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/71137
Those might be able to fit, those are the longest I could find. They are chevy, but I would assume it would be the same design. Hope it helps some.
 

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I was on a website that makes custom length brake lines. I ll search my history and post the link up. All you have to do is tell them your application and they can custom make you some.
 

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Honestly... putting a stroker kit into your engine is gonna cost your more than 3500... I've piled up almost 7000 worth of parts into my engine... and i originally planned on it only costing 4000-5000 range... So yeah, there will be lots of other parts and upgrades you will want along with the stroker kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
75 Power Wagon said:
Honestly... putting a stroker kit into your engine is gonna cost your more than 3500... I've piled up almost 7000 worth of parts into my engine... and i originally planned on it only costing 4000-5000 range... So yeah, there will be lots of other parts and upgrades you will want along with the stroker kit.
That's the real world figure I was looking to hear. Thanks for the info.... and nix the stroker from my thoughts for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
mikeah169 said:
I was on a website that makes custom length brake lines. I ll search my history and post the link up. All you have to do is tell them your application and they can custom make you some.
That sounds nice and simple. If you find the site, I'd love to see it and check 'em out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mayo5 said:
No I haven't bought it just yet, I'm awaiting his reply on shipping information.
As for the Spring Perches and Shock mounts, I'm going to wait and do those once I get the axle. No the R&P is kinda a choice, he said he is willing to change the gear ratio for you, but at an additional price. He is also putting on a size 1410 Yoke for me, from a 1350. I expect the shipping to be the big devastater. But it's still a good price for the security of your vehicle, especially off road...
I've got a guy here local that's only going to charge me $250 per axle for a R&P change. That's tough to beat. With that price on the R&P, I'm almost set on going with the D60's even if it might be a little bit more of an initial buy in. That way all the lugs line up, and I don't have to pay the extra money for the perches, etc to be customed up.
 

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get the dana 60s... i would never put a 14 bolt under my mopar!

I'm looking at upgrading my axles too... after my engine is built and paid for completely though.
 

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I couldnt find the site i was at for the custom brake lines but I did a search and found these two sites, may wanna call and see what they can do. The two sites are www.classictube.com and www.custombrakehose.com I hope these sites help. Let us know what you find out because if I go bigger then I'm gonna need longer brake lines too.
 
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