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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm doing wheel bearings on a 2003 RT again. Does anyone know the torque spec for the axle nut?
 

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Neon Master Mechanic
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Interesting. 1st gens are 135. Seems logical tho, a lot of things are a little scaled up on 2nd gens.. disc thickness, torque rating on the trans, etc.
 

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IDK where you are getting 135. my 96 neon calls for 150.. which doesn't make much sense since the thread size and nut size is the same... even weirder is my 1988 Omni specs Hub nut at 180 also.
 

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that figures. I'm using the Factory service manuals.

I quit using the cheapo reference books (haynes, chilton, etc) when 25 years ago, I was rebuilding my 904 trans and their manuals said to torque the valve body to 110ftlbs. It was pretty obvious this was a printing error. I torqued them to 110 inlbs because I have more common sense
 

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WOW, that's a lot of issue. I use to circle track race an L-body and a gen1 Neon and never had a wheel bearing problem. Just think about the loading I put on my RF. There's no way a street or even a weekend racer would load the bearing as much as I did. Use the high end Borg Warner wheel bearing From Napa and make darn sure you're pressing them in correctly.

Another option, I use for bearings, is I go to a local industrial bearing supplier and have them find a better quality bearing. This is usually cheaper than buying the same bearing from a parts store. When I rebuild the Getrag trans in my cummins d350, I got all my trans bearing from the industrial dealer. the prices saved me over $50.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, this car torques me off. It's only a daily driver & shouldn't be going through bearing like it does. I actually have 2 spindles for each side to decrease the down time when swapping bearings. I've used Timken in the past & have recently tried the National (Moog) bearing. An industrial bearing may be an option.
 

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Neon Master Mechanic
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This is the 1st time I have heard of someone eating bearings like that..

and MiniVan I had never compared the specs from the FSM to the Haynes.. I will start pulling the FSM out if I need torque specs and leave the Haynes for picture reference ;)



I will ask around but I can't see how you run thru bearings like that. Do you drive it hard/ on dirt/ rough roads? Not sure what else could cause it. Are you packing them before you install? I know that is a silly question but ya know.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, this is the 1st vehicle I've ever wrenched on that has such an issue going through wheel bearings. It's just a daily driver that doesn't get driven that hard on normal paved roads. The bearing a dual sealed unit that isn't greasable. Well, I should say that it comes pre-greased.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought it was an assembly issue too, but, I have 2 knuckles that I've used & I've used Moog & Timken bearing with the same results. Crap, I got frustrated with it that I had my ASE Cert buddy come over & press one in... he did it exactly the same way that I do.
 

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Well, everything you said and done absolutely makes no sense what so ever. Are you by chance miss diagnosing? How about just getting another set of used spindles and changing again.

If I had your car in my hands I could guarantee that you wouldn't have a wheel bearing issue.
 

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Neon Master Mechanic
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Minivan, my FSM is a PDF, Haynes is hard copy. So that is why I pick it up a little more often.



I know I know I need a hard copy FSM. :worthy:
 

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Neon Master Mechanic
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Ya know ACR you 2 guys are the only ones I have ever come across that had to change a wheel bearing that does not auto cross their car.



I am going to poke around, maybe I am missing something.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I should clarify some specs on the knuckles I have... I said I have 2 for each side. 2 are the factory originals that came on the car, the other 2 are OEM pieces that are (were) brand new.

TX-I'd like to hear some tech feedback re installation procedures in case I'm missing something blatantly ovbious!

Thanks for the feedback guys.
 
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