that figures. I'm using the Factory service manuals.
I quit using the cheapo reference books (haynes, chilton, etc) when 25 years ago, I was rebuilding my 904 trans and their manuals said to torque the valve body to 110ftlbs. It was pretty obvious this was a printing error. I torqued them to 110 inlbs because I have more common sense
Thanks guys. This car EATS wheel bearings... I've done 3 on each side and it only has 97k. 180 ft/lb looks like what I'll be using. For those of you interested, this might help out with other vehicles also
WOW, that's a lot of issue. I use to circle track race an L-body and a gen1 Neon and never had a wheel bearing problem. Just think about the loading I put on my RF. There's no way a street or even a weekend racer would load the bearing as much as I did. Use the high end Borg Warner wheel bearing From Napa and make darn sure you're pressing them in correctly.
Another option, I use for bearings, is I go to a local industrial bearing supplier and have them find a better quality bearing. This is usually cheaper than buying the same bearing from a parts store. When I rebuild the Getrag trans in my cummins d350, I got all my trans bearing from the industrial dealer. the prices saved me over $50.
Yeah, this car torques me off. It's only a daily driver & shouldn't be going through bearing like it does. I actually have 2 spindles for each side to decrease the down time when swapping bearings. I've used Timken in the past & have recently tried the National (Moog) bearing. An industrial bearing may be an option.
This is the 1st time I have heard of someone eating bearings like that..
and MiniVan I had never compared the specs from the FSM to the Haynes.. I will start pulling the FSM out if I need torque specs and leave the Haynes for picture reference
I will ask around but I can't see how you run thru bearings like that. Do you drive it hard/ on dirt/ rough roads? Not sure what else could cause it. Are you packing them before you install? I know that is a silly question but ya know.
Yeah, this is the 1st vehicle I've ever wrenched on that has such an issue going through wheel bearings. It's just a daily driver that doesn't get driven that hard on normal paved roads. The bearing a dual sealed unit that isn't greasable. Well, I should say that it comes pre-greased.
I thought it was an assembly issue too, but, I have 2 knuckles that I've used & I've used Moog & Timken bearing with the same results. Crap, I got frustrated with it that I had my ASE Cert buddy come over & press one in... he did it exactly the same way that I do.