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Computing Fool/Gadget Guy
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,

I have two questions both are audio related...

First, I have a spare Kicker kx350.4 that I would really like to use in the D, I already have a mmats and 1200.1, the mmats drives the cdt components and the 1200.1 drives a pair of 12" hx2's in the back.

My question is that I would like to add maybe some 8" mids somewhere to be driven by the kx350.4, but I am unsure of where. Currently the rear is filled with the box for 12's so I would need them to go somewhere else and I am thinking of somewhere near the rear wheel well??? Has anybody taken apart the rear well and see what is behind there and how much room there is???

My next option is going to end up being either the rear doors or the other thing I am thinking is putting something in the center console.

That is my first scenario, the second is how/where to put the amps and crossover. I currently have removed the rear cover and have two of the amps and the crossover in the storage well below and what I am thinking is to make a mounting board that would attach to the back of the third row seating to hold the amps.

As far as that, I am thinking 3/4 inch plexiglass or wood with grey carpeting.

Just soliciting input and looking for something interesting...

Thoughts??

T
 

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3/4" plexiglass, that's pretty thick man, 1/2" might work just as well. Plexi-glass is pretty strong.
 

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Hummer Recovery Vehicle
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plexi-glass will flex a lot....so keep thickness in mind when considering your components and how much flex you think you may encounter. remember, vibrations and rattle = lost sound.

you could always build yourself a 'glass enclosure for them.
 

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Computing Fool/Gadget Guy
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The plexiglass would be where I mount the Amps to, they wont be part of the box.. I posted over here another question on audio: http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?p=902731#post902731

I am trying to figure out the best way to wire up the HX2's, ESH posted in another forum to help out as well, netout is that I blew up a kx1200.1 mono amp and have temporarily put a 350.4 multichannel in place and it sounds just about as good as the mono amp and I am disappointed... I am soliciting from the other forum the best way to wire up 500rms 1000w peak on a dual 4ohm subs...

This stuff has changed sooooo much since I was building systems 10 years ago... :(
 

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Slammed 1 Suspensions
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Don't put 8's in the rear. You'll introduce a comb filter effect and it won't be worth the trouble. If your heart is set on 8's, they need to go up front. If the mmats is a 2 channel you could run it to a pair of 8's and bridge the kicker to your component set. lowpass the sub around 80-90hz and run the 8's from about 80 up to around 200hz and your comps can take over from there.
 

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Computing Fool/Gadget Guy
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
my hear isnt set on 8's I guess I am trying to figure out if I need to fill between the 12's and the 6.5" from the components...

Anyone cut open their interior by the wheel well??
 

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if you choose to fill between the 6.5's and the 12's and aren't extremely careful, you are going to get into more problems than you ever wished for from cancellation, etc...

What is your goal with your system, are you going to compete?
 

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Computing Fool/Gadget Guy
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
no competition, I just want to get the most volume outta my gear that I have already, I am not convinced that Columbus Car Audio gave me the best advice or install for the gear that I have...

Too many other irons in the fire to compete...

I think when all is said and done:
MMATS driving the cdt's up front, if I remember right that will be bridged to 180 per side
KX350.4 bridged to 175x2 to drive the 6.5 coax CDT's
KX1200.1 [email protected] ohm (which I am not sure if I am at 1 ohm or .5 ohm) wired in parallel for the hx2's

I appreciate you guys help and input on this, I have been trying to make sense outta how to calculate the ohm load and whether this is the right setup, but as you can see, I am still struggling..

T
 

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Esh said:
if you choose to fill between the 6.5's and the 12's and aren't extremely careful, you are going to get into more problems than you ever wished for from cancellation, etc...
This is actually true with any speaker sizes... thus the reason we have crossovers to allow speakers excell in their given frequency range...

For example...

I have Tweeters xOver @ 4500hz
5.25" mids bandpassed xOver between 4500hz & 160hz
8" woofers bandpassed xOver between 170hz & 50hz
12" woofer xOver @ 63hz

If none of those speakers where xOver I would have all kinds of cancellation & nasty peaks in the frequency response of the entire system...
 

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oldmantod said:
no competition, I just want to get the most volume outta my gear that I have already, I am not convinced that Columbus Car Audio gave me the best advice or install for the gear that I have...

Too many other irons in the fire to compete...

I think when all is said and done:
MMATS driving the cdt's up front, if I remember right that will be bridged to 180 per side
KX350.4 bridged to 175x2 to drive the 6.5 coax CDT's
KX1200.1 [email protected] ohm (which I am not sure if I am at 1 ohm or .5 ohm) wired in parallel for the hx2's

I appreciate you guys help and input on this, I have been trying to make sense outta how to calculate the ohm load and whether this is the right setup, but as you can see, I am still struggling..

T
thats way too much power for the cdt coaxials. if you're not adding anymore speakers i would probably set the mmats aside and just run the pair of kickers.
 

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racer raul said:
This is actually true with any speaker sizes... thus the reason we have crossovers to allow speakers excell in their given frequency range...

For example...

I have Tweeters xOver @ 4500hz
5.25" mids bandpassed xOver between 4500hz & 160hz
8" woofers bandpassed xOver between 170hz & 50hz
12" woofer xOver @ 63hz

If none of those speakers where xOver I would have all kinds of cancellation & nasty peaks in the frequency response of the entire system...
Exactly right Racer Raul, I wouldn't wanna imagine what your system would sound like with your crossovers set wrong. And if I ever got into a vehicle like that (crossovers wrong with cancellation and peaks), I would seriously go nuts :SHK:
 

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Computing Fool/Gadget Guy
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
are you sure that is too much to drive the coaxials???
 

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Most coaxials I've ever seen won't take much over 75, with the majority being in the 35-50 range. The coaxials in my rear doors are only rated at 40 rms (Alpine Type-S), and the top of the line components (Alpine Type-X) in the front are rated at 75 RMS. You may ocassionally run into some that take more because they have bigger drivers (magnets/heavier structure) but none that take 175 RMS. A lot of light-mid range subwoofers take 175 RMS and look how much bigger they are than coaxials.
 

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Computing Fool/Gadget Guy
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I may pull the coax out of the rear doors and put components in there, that way the 350.4 can run the rear components and the mmats can run the front components (I put 6.5's in the rear not realizing that the rear door had components in there)..

T
 
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