I dont' think its the tranny that needs to be changed to help the shifts.... We need to be able to disable the Torque Management. I think it closes the throttle plate during the shift. On this note, a funny thing happened to me today... it decided to shift like a NORMAL tranny, out of nowhere, in the first round of eliminations. Needless to say I broke out by quite a bit. :VHOT: I let off and coasted the last 30ft and still beat my best run of the day by .2. Now, to get it to do that all the time....
It's like it... but not really. I pulled the relay in the fuse box, ran a fused switch into the cab. It should work on anyhting... but I only know for sure it did for me, as no one else would ever give it a try. Only one other person even gave it a shot, and that was TTU and that boy... well he's chasing after the short bus that left him and all the other kids in it are laughin and pointing at him...
Yea, that's what you're doing with the switch... putting it into a manual valve body state.
Ok, it's been awhile... but let's see if I can remember all this.
Remove the relay in the fuse block (again, been so long, don't know which number, but it's the Tranny Ctrl Mod. one). Now, connect a wire to each prong and run them into the cab. Be sure on one of them that you install a fuse for the same amperage as the relay. *See pix 1 and 2 for reference* Now... you can use either a 2 or 3 prong switch (2 prong for normal, 3 for a lighted one). A 2 prong... obviously one wire to each prong. A 3 prong... you'll have to play with it a couple times, but two prongs will complete the circuit and the 3rd will be to a ground to illuminate the switch when the switch is "on".
No, as per the first pic... you'll drive around with the switch "on" which will complete the circuit so it's as normal and everything shifts like normal (and light on). With the switch "off" the transmission will be put into a manual valve body state and lock itself into which ever gear you have selected (and light will go off). Now, the way to use this... from a stop when you know you're gonna be running... have the shifter in 2 and the switch "on". When it gets to around 5400 RPMs or so (or whatever it is just before it'd shift itself), flip the switch "off" which will lock it into second and therby forcing the shift much as a shift kit would do in an old muscle car. After the shift, flip the switch back "on" and move the shifter into D and just keep rolling.
Now, as I said about TTU... he's a slooooooooooooooooooooooow learner and took him a really long time to get it, and then only got it once. On my truck, I got it right the first time, so hopefully it's not just me being a shitty teacher and this will work for you.
Yea, I posted about it a while back when I did it... but everyone was so engulfed by pulling that dang wire mine jsut got overlooked. Oh well, kind of made me feel good to have the onle one around here like that.
Did it this morning...wow. And don't worry bubba, your a good teacher Works great, barks second pretty hard. Only downfall I can see is that it stays in limp mode (manual shift state) until you shut the truck off, then back on. I can only get one run out of it which is fine for the track, but sucks on the street. It won't allow the tranny to shift for itself or go into first until the ignition is cycled. Did you notice this too?? Thanks again, Bubba
Really? I never had that problem... I'd use it on several occasions while out. Hell, there are times I'd hit the switch on accident when getting into the truck and put it into drive and it wouldn't go anywhere. Flip it back and everything is normal.
So, if you use the switch for the 1-2 shift and stayed on it... it wouldn't shift itself into 3rd?
Nope, I have to manually shift it into 3rd; and 4th and 5th are locked out. Seems like once the code is set in the comp, it stays in limp mode until the ign is cycled. Oh well, I put the fuse back in last night, and now, my truck decided it wants to bark second at wot on its own. Its not near as hard as w/ the mod, but it chirps 'em... Stupid ass computers...