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· ******* Yankee
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My core is shot. I'll be replacing it this Wed-Thurs. I'm giving myself two days. I have the service manual that was online. I was just wondering if anyone has any tips that they learned the hard way about what to do or not to do. Thanks guys.
 

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I did it in about 4-5 hrs. It's not really that bad. Pretty simple, I did it exactly how my Haynes manual said to do it. My best advice is to not get too frusterated.
 

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drain ac?

Just did mine, didn't drain or disconnect the ac. wasn't hard to get the core out, but getting the blower housing bolts to line up was a little hard. I didn't completely remove the dash and steering, a tie down strap from the passenger overhead handle to the dash helped keep it out of the way while working.
 

· ******* Yankee
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well just finished it and no leaks. :cheerl: It was hard but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Now I have heat again and just in time for winter. Thanks for the advice guys.

The biggest thing that helped was a write up from "theredneck". Thanks ED great job. :tup:
 

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can you post up your manual and write up that you used?

i think i might need to do it too. i just replaced the t-stat today and the heats a little warmer but my coolant is rusty in cooler so i think the heater core is shot. how did you know your heater core is done?
 

· ******* Yankee
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had a new t-stat as well and the heat was luke warm at best. I could also smell the antifreeze coming out of the vents and my windows would fog up when I had the defrost on. I had a small leak because the coolant didn't end up all over my floor. But the core was wet on the bottom when I pulled it out.

As far as getting the write up you might want to send theredneck a pm. He'll be able to send you a copy. It's his write up and I don't have permission to share it, but I'm sure he wouldn't care if I sent it, but ask him anyway.
 

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thanks. Yeah mines warm for a min, then lukewarm, then kinda warm haha. I didn't really test it alot yet... but I have a feeling either my coolant is shot or the core is done.

edit: would not having a front o2 sensor at all mess with heat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't think so but it would really mess up your air/fuel mix.
 

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hmm. i don't have anything on the floor of my truck or any smell.
 

· ******* Yankee
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
commish said:
backflush your heater core it probably is plugged up.
I agree. Get a Prestone flush kit. It's easy and cheap to do.
 

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how do you back flush?
 

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simply swap heater hoses for a few hours then return if it works or disconnect both hoses and flush out with a water hose or like Wirenut said get a prestone flush kit and follow the directions
 

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Heater Cores

hell, since we are on the topic....my Ram has about 57,000 miles the heat is also "warm" not hot....sometimes when i hit the gas it makes some "gurgling" noises till it gets back down to about 1500 rpm's.... im going to "backflush" the system as well as test my thermostat... anybody have any ideas i may be overlooking?? btw how much was that heater core......you gotta pull the dash???

my dash started cracking...i called Chrysler Headquarters, went through a month of b/s, and they are replacing my crashed dashboard...for about $275.00.....should i just have them do it when they have the dash all apart?? i dunno thats my situation
 

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KillerMac said:
hell, since we are on the topic....my Ram has about 57,000 miles the heat is also "warm" not hot....sometimes when i hit the gas it makes some "gurgling" noises till it gets back down to about 1500 rpm's.... im going to "backflush" the system as well as test my thermostat... anybody have any ideas i may be overlooking?? btw how much was that heater core......you gotta pull the dash???

my dash started cracking...i called Chrysler Headquarters, went through a month of b/s, and they are replacing my crashed dashboard...for about $275.00.....should i just have them do it when they have the dash all apart?? i dunno thats my situation
YES!

Unless they want to charge you for the whole 6 hours (I think that's what they charge for the dash R&R for heater core replacement). If they won't charge you for the dash removal since they are replacing it anyways, and they just charge you for the R&R on the heater core, I would say definitely do it because it's a pain in the arse to do it yourself...
 

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commish said:
simply swap heater hoses for a few hours then return if it works or disconnect both hoses and flush out with a water hose or like Wirenut said get a prestone flush kit and follow the directions

I think i'll do the water hose thing, i wanna flush the whole system. So if i have the heat on and nothing on the floor and can't smell the fluid then i should have a clog? or does that mean the core could still be bad. Also, if its clogged, wouldn't it cause overheating?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
sony224422 said:
I think i'll do the water hose thing, i wanna flush the whole system. So if i have the heat on and nothing on the floor and can't smell the fluid then i should have a clog? or does that mean the core could still be bad. Also, if its clogged, wouldn't it cause overheating?
No it wouldn't. The heater core is only for heating the cab. I would flush the entire system with the Prestone kit.

KillerMac...
The gurgling noise you hear is air. If you flush the system and refill it that should take care of the noise. When I called around the prices I got for the core varied from $75-$120. And yes you have to pull the dash to replace the core. Having them do it when they repair your dash is a good idea.
 

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what does it get clogged up with? and would that mean i need a new core anyways?
 

· ******* Yankee
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sediment or rust. If you can flush it out and it's not leaking you don't have to replace it.
 

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im just afraid of making something worse.. i just read someone did a backflush and blew the headgasket from overheating
 
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