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Friday I took my durango up to autozone to get the battery tested. This was because, 20 miniutes earlier my car would not turn over. Now I just got finish installing a bigger stereo system than the one in my sig and I figured that the new system would be a bit more straining on my truck than the previous. Anyway, I had the guy at autozone test both my battery and my alternator.
Well when I pop up the hood I notice that there was a small amount of smoke comming from the battery(Old battery from walmart that was in the truck when I brought it two years ago). He tested the battery and of course it said it was bad but then when he tested the alternator the test came back showing that I was running at around 13.87volt at idle, but my peak amps was a 3.3amp. The guy told me that my peak amps should be up to the rating on the alternator. My alternator is a 117amp alternator. He also told me that if the battery is bad then it could also give a false alternator reading. So yesterday I go back to autozone and by a redtop(they didn't have any yellowtops in stock and I didn't have $180 to spend on a battery, hell I really didn't have the $120 for the redtop)and I had him do the alternator retest. Yesterday the voltage from the alternator was again at around 13.8 but the peak amps dropped to 1.6. Now he tells me that I'm gonna have to get a new alternator, which I don't really have a problem with except that I can't figure out which one to get.
I've decided to step up to a bit bigger alternator ( 136 amps) and I really to know the difference between the Durlast 136 and Durlast Gold 136 that Autozone offers. I'm also looking at the Bosch alternator at advance autoparts.
All I know is that I want my truck to function again and hopfully after I chang this alternator, that will be the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
bump......

I really need some advice on this.
 

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Is Autozone offering a money back guarantee? If so, go for the Gold 136 and see if that solves the problem. You might want to look into running 0 guage ground/power wires as well to help carry all the new power. Search the archives on here, might find something more to help.
 

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You should have got the Yellow Top. If you are going to run the stereo with the truck off, you will kill the Red Top. The red top is a starter batter and is not designed for deep discharges. It is designed for a small drain and a quick recovery. The Yellow is designed to be able to be drained and be recharged without damage.

The Optima site has information on the battery types an when to use which battery but from the FAQ:

13. What does deep cycle mean?

Deep cycle means using the battery in an application that will typically discharge 60% to 70% or more of the batter y capacity. An automotive battery is an SLI (starting, lighting, ignition) battery. It's plates are designed to deliver maximum power for a short duration. Starting a car typically discharges an SLI battery only 1% to 3%. When an SLI battery is used in a deep cycle application, or in a vehicle with heavy accessory loads, the battery life will be shortened proportionally to how deeply it is cycled on a regular basis.
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14. When should I consider a deep cycle?

Any time you need the battery to supply all the operating power for a vehicle or other device. Additionally, deep cycle batteries should be used in vehicles that have heavy accessory loads where the alternator cannot maintain the battery in a fully charged condition
 
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