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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We will be adding a toilet paper oil filter (Frantz Oil Filter) to this 1993 B250 318 van. The issue we have is where are the best sources of feed (oil to the filter) and return (oil back to the engine from the oil filter)?

The Oil Pressure Sending Unit is a source of feed. We could install a tee at the base of the sending unit. Or, we could purchase an adapter (spin on adapter between the block and spin-on oil filter) as our feed point.

The return line back to the engine is not as straightforward. I could tap into the side of the oil pan with a self-tapping hollow bolt. Or, we can purchase a hollow bolt to replace one of the manifold bolts as our return point.

Many here have probably installed external oil coolers and been through this FEED-RETURN line issue. You may have experience and opinions.

My best opinion is to drop the oil pan and weld a return line fitting on the side. I feel that returning the oil back to the pan (just above the oil lever) is best.

Looking for opinions about feed and return lines for external oil filters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, alloro. We are aware of the adapters. However, we wish not to eliminate the full-flow spin on filter. But you are right...that is an option.

We will most likely tee off the pressure sending unit as our feed source. It's the return oil back to the engine issue that we are looking for advice.
 

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I suppose you could do the whole remote oil filter adapter setup and put the Frantz Oil Filter system in-line with one of the remote filter lines. The added bonus is having an easy to get to spin-on oil filter.
 

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I would avoid the type of filter you described that takes pressure from a tee and returns it to the pan... This is known as a bypass filter and filters only some of the oil while lower oil pressure. (Think of it as a filtered leak.)
I would go with a full-flow type setup for additional filtering or cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, but I'm already convinced of the benefits of by-pass filters (in addition to the full-flow stock filter system). Can't be talked out of it. Been using them for over 30 years now. Way too much data in support of keeping oil clean anyway you can. Full flow filters have their place. So do by-pass filters. Teeing into the pressure sending unit and flowing through the by-pass filter slowly (and through a restricting orifice) is not a problem. People have been doing this on the internal combustion engine for many years now.
 

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If you're going to do that, you might as well just install a fitting on the valve cover so that your oil filler cap can remain as is. If you install the fitting right next to the filler hole, you can avoid removing the valve cover by reaching your finger through the hole to get the rubber washer and nut on the inside of the fitting.

The downside to dumping all of that oil into the valve train is the likelihood of increased oil burning/consumption. All of that extra oil around the valve stems will seep into the nearest cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good point, alloro. I believe my oil filler cap and tube goes to the crankcase, though. And yes, synthetic is good oil. But it too can get dirty.
 

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On my 97 van the oil fill port goes into the left valve cover.
 

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Chrysler used the rear fuel pump bolt hole for oil return on 85-86 police models. There is a tube the replaces the rear fuel pump bolt. Try a Chrysler dealer and ask for the oil cooler return bolt and tube for 86 Dodge Diplomat with the police package. 318 with oil cooler. Hope this helps....AL
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, VandadAl...that's the kind of clue (or tip) I've been looking for. However, my fuel pump on my 93 is in the gas tank. But maybe the mounting for the fuel pump on the block remains the same...I'll check it out.
 
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