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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took my 04 Durango HEMI Limited into the stealership to have them address 3 issues: 1. A/C TSB (blows hot when engine warm) 2. Exhaust drone TSB and 3. Hesitation (but never stalling) when turning after a dead stop.

They claim they:
1. Re-flashed PCM and ordered parts for the TSB (parts on B/O, no clue as to delivery.)
2. Ordered parts for exhaust drone TSB (parts on B/O, again clueless.)
3. Cleaned throttle body per some TSB (supposed to be necessary only after 50K miles. My D has about 11K miles)

So, I pick up the truck and it feels weird. None of the HEMI guts. I think maybe the flash requires the PCM to learn some new sensor settings, so I hit the highway bound for my next call. Accelerating up the on-ramp, pedal to the metal, I'm trying to slide into a spot between a couple of semis, and as the throttle hits 3700RPM it's like the engine isn't running. Tach is oscillating between about 3500 and 4000RPM but I'm not accelerating, so I steer onto the shoulder to avoid becoming a hood ornament for a Kenworth.

As I reduce throttle, I feel things return to normal about 3500RPM. Since the next exit is 11 miles away and I'm reluctant to waste a few hours getting towed, I wait for a nice big hole to merge into the slow lane. Things seem fine again, so as I get near that exit, I punch it. The tranny kicks down, the HEMI revs up, and at 3700 it does it again. Bouncing between 3500 and 3900.

So, I figure I can limp to my appointment, as long as I keep my foot out of it, but I decide to call the Service Mangler at the stealership. I share some of my best "Golf Words" with him. :VHOT:

Finish the customer call, and return to the truck. Try the 3 keyclicks, no codes! Do the accelerator fly-by-wire throttle reset. Truck runs great. I find a good chunk of road and the HEMI bolts like a HEMI should.

So, I call the Mangler back, and tell him I have fixed the problem. (I think he was still pissed that I had questioned his parent's marital status at the time of his birth. ) Now that you have read all this, you're probably waiting for a punchline better than "So, Bob's your Uncle!", right?

Sorry, but the only punchline is that this highly qualified and factory trained Service Manager at a Five Star Dealer had never heard of the accelerator reset gimmick. I guess the moral of this loooooong story is to do this gimmick whenever you are forced to turn your D over to a service dummy.

Guess I need to find another joint to do the in-warranty work.
 

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Moparty, could you explain the "accelerator fly-by-wire throttle reset" for the clueless among us (like myself)? What do you mean by "3 keyclicks, no codes"? Sounds like something we all should know and tuck away for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mountainrev said:
Moparty, could you explain the "accelerator fly-by-wire throttle reset" for the clueless among us (like myself)? What do you mean by "3 keyclicks, no codes"? Sounds like something we all should know and tuck away for future reference.

Sure thing, Mountainrev. It's all in the searchable archives, but I'll save you the search.

Reading out Diagnostic Codes:

With engine stopped, quickly turn key to first position, and back, twice, then a third time to first position, leaving it in first position the last time. "Click-Back-Click-Back-Click" Your electronic odometer will read out any codes in sequence, ending with "done". If you just see "done" you have no codes. If you see mileage, you were too slow. Try again.

If you see codes like "P0302", write them down. I have a translation list, but I'm sure there are a few on the net.


Resetting Fly by wire accelerator:

There is no direct physical linkage between the pedal and the fuel injection system, hence the fly-by-wire name.

With engine stopped, turn key to first position, leaving it there. When idiot lights go out, press accelerator pedal to the floor and then let it pop back up. Turn off key. You just told the PCM (Power Control Module) the limits of travel of the pedal.
 

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Thanks Moparty! Those are handy to know.
 

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moparty said:
Reading out Diagnostic Codes:

With engine stopped, quickly turn key to first position, and back, twice, then a third time to first position, leaving it in first position the last time. "Click-Back-Click-Back-Click" Your electronic odometer will read out any codes in sequence, ending with "done". If you just see "done" you have no codes. If you see mileage, you were too slow. Try again.
Mine doesn't do this. I tried 30-40 times. I got to where it didn't take more than 1.5sec. for the sequence. I even tried 4 & 5 clicks; nothing. I did it in "trip" mode and "odo" mode. Nothing.
Mine is an '04
 

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I just tried it, and couldn't get it to work either. I have an '04 as well.
 

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Moparty,

I had the PCM reflashed as well for the AC work and the truck drove fine after the reflash. The next day it seemed to drive fine and I was keeping a control on the accelerator to save gas; very mild use of the pedal. When I had to punch it to get on the freeway entrance, like you, I had the engine behave really weird. No power when you push the pedal to the floor. When you let go of the pedal it seems fine but everytime you punch it it seems to die almost.

Anyways, I called the manager just like you and left a message and explained the problem and wanted to revert back to the older firmware as the previous version didn't have this debilitating issue. He never called me back.

The next time I started the vehicle and drove it, it was fine. No problems and no hesitation. I didn't perform the accelerator recalibration either, even though I knew of this trick.

Very strange but I'd guess it had to do with the learning process after the firmware update. Drives fine now.

Willy
 
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