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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm looking into an '02 LWB 1500. The dealer says that it came equiped with abs brakes in the rear only. Is this possible? Was 4wheel abs an option? If so, how much work would it be to get all 4 wheels abs? I'm mechanically inclined (and patient). Anyone know of a link that shows a diagram or breakdown of the system & parts?Thanks, m.
 

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abs brakes in the rear only. Is this possible? Was 4wheel abs an option?
Yes and yes.
The conversion would be rather extensive and expensive. You would need the computer, wiring harness, front sensors and mounts, new front rotors, etc. Don't count on a junkyard since not many opted for the front ABS option. Not really worth it if you ask me. I've driven in all sorts of weather and never has a loss of control problem with just rear ABS.
 

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I also prefer just the rear ABS system. Simpler system, easier maintained, very dependable. All 4 ABS have many more expensive parts to keep up. Front hubs/rotors are notorious for having the speed sensor go out and costing near to over $200.00 for the part alone not counting labor to change.

Stay with the rear ABS, you will be glad you did.:tup:
 

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I have not felt it in mine yet. The system does a self test at each engine start. On the Message Center (to the right of the oil pressure gage and left of the radio) there will be an orange ABS light and red Brake light. Both should light for about 4 seconds and then turn off. That means the self test is complete. When the ABS system has a problem the Orange ABS lamp will light and then the brake system will function but not stop rear wheel from locking up.
 

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Will I feel the brake pedal "Pulse" when it engages just like on 4whl abs? I need to make sure it is working.
No you will not feel any pedal pulsations. With RWABS there is no pump like with 4WABS. The way RWABS works is by opening a solenoid valve and bleeding pressure from the back brakes back into the reservoir.

The way I checked mine was to go into a snowy parking lot and have someone watch my rear tires as I drove and slammed on the brakes. If you don't live in an area with snow or if it's the summer time, you can still do this on dry or sandy pavement. You just need a little more speed and you have to jump on the brake pedal harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I purchaced this 2002 LWB 5.2 1500. It has a clean car fax, if that means anything. It was won by this Pa. dealer from a government auction 11/08 and has only 10k mi. I just learned that under the hood lists some vehicle equip. It reads 00k or B0k for the brakes and says 4 wheel anti lock. The pedal pulsates when the system is engaged but I need my wife to lock the brakes in the snow or ice from 20mph or so so I can tell if all 4 wheels are "unlocking" (i know what this looks like).
The tag also reads DRB Axle, DMD 3.55, DSA Anti Spin. OGB and OGT (or is it a D as first letter)for the tranny. What should I look for to tell if it has the factory tow pkg. A code on the Fender Tag?
Oh where can I find the build sheet?
 

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Look in the PDC (on or by the radiator) inside the top of the cover should be a sign of what the fuses and relays are. There you should see something regarding ABS Relay, if it has 4 wheel ABS then the slot will have a relay in it. If only the RWAL ABS then there will not be a relay in it. Most likely your van has the 4 wheel ABS form your description of the brake pedal action.

Regarding the Build Sheet, give your local Dodge Dealer the VIN and they will print one out for free. I did that with my 97.
 

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You doon't need any ABS!!!! Yeah it CAN help in certain situations but more crap to potentially break down; the rear only ABS started out around '87 on Ford P/Us and Dodge started with it about 88-89 or so. Lot less problems than the 4W ABS.

Theres a ton of talk I guess in my kid's Driver Ed class about FWD, ABS, traction control and airbags. He needs 50 hours of drive time spread over 9 months (plus a whopping 6 hrs with the driver ed teacher-- I think they need to "up" that part of it) and he has about 30 of his hours in about 4 months; split between a 78 fury 2 door, a few hrs in my 97 Ram before I sold it in Sept, (It had the 4W ABS) my current 83 D 250 and my wife's 01 XJ Cherokee (also 4W ABS) and he seems to do better in the '78 and the 83.
I'd like to be a bug on the wall, when the teacher asks what kinds of vehicle(s) the kids have been getting their experience in.....
next is to pull the Wrangler out when I get the plastic (fender flares, etc) back from the body shop, and reinstalled; took em in for paint, been waiting on that, since the beginning of the school year too (I took em in to the local career Ctr on a good recommendation from a buddy) I wouldn't have if I'd have known they'd collect dust this long! but that one's a stick and again NO ABS of any sort. They need to learn on the old style stuff, so they don't get too "used" to todays "idiot proofed" cars....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all. Yes volaredon, could i send my wife for some lessons with you? (i mean for the braking instructions). The only problem I have with the older non ABS vehicles is the ones with 4 wheel drums. They were never or hardly ever adjusted as well as a disc car and as soon as you touch the brake pedal on snow or ice, one or more tires would prematurely lock. Each wheel did something different. But in retrospect, those years of driving (and understanding ) my '70 Dart, '72 Charger, '69 RR etc..etc.. made me the driver I am today. **Also, you had to be able to "READ" the traffic from a distance rather than crank the stereo and talk on the cell and then "react" to a situation.**
 

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Also, you had to be able to "READ" the traffic from a distance rather than crank the stereo and talk on the cell and then "react" to a situation.
How so true. That is what I was taught in my Driver's Ed class when I was in school. It seems to many rely on the ABS, Traction Control and now the Automatic Cruise Control (the one that applies the brakes for you when you are too close to the vehicle in front of you). I am afraid of the kids whom learn in these modern cars then buy an old classic that does not "think" for them, they will panic and the car will go out of control and could lose their life.

I like the new adminities but as stated above they should not be relied upon, they are mechanical and electronic and will at some point breakdown. Just hopefully not at the time it is need most.
 

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My first two cars had mechanical brakes. The 34 Chevy was cable operated and the 33 Ford was rod operated. You could count on adjusting them every week. :gr_patrio
 

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Concurring with the drum brakes, in the morning, after a damp cool or cold night, when starting out those drums seems to ignore the ABS and just totally grab and lock up. It's been mentioned here in these forums a few times about this issue. Usually, after driving 3 blocks, stopping and going, the problem goes away.

Drum breaks are excellent for stopping a great deal of weight like our vans. One needs to know how to start off in the early mornings after a damp night. Other than that, the brake system works flawlessly.

As for the ABS on either of the B1500 or the B2500, the B1500 reacted quicker with the ABS while the B2500 with HD suspension was a little bit slower to notice. Of course were talking 1/2-ton vs 3/4-ton here.
 

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Yes and yes.
The conversion would be rather extensive and expensive. You would need the computer, wiring harness, front sensors and mounts, new front rotors, etc. Don't count on a junkyard since not many opted for the front ABS option. Not really worth it if you ask me. I've driven in all sorts of weather and never has a loss of control problem with just rear ABS.


Hi!

What do i need for 4-wheel ABS-conversion on my 1988 Non-ABS Dodge B250 Van?

Do i need more than:

* Computer
* Wiring harness
* Front & rear sensors
* Front rotors
* Mounts

Is the ABS-computer connected to the ECU?

Do i have to change the rear axle or can i just mount the sensors on it?
 

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You would also need the ABS valve, pump motor, and reroute all of the brake lines.

You might be able to remove the rear axle and have the threaded hole machined into it for the rear sensor.
 
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