DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
truck has OEM plug with 49780 miles. i have read other plug change threads and got some helpful tips.

my main question is this....is it a good idea to use a penetrating lube on the OE plugs before breaking them loose or did factory use antiseize compound? the last thing i want to do is snap one in half like another post i read...

also i have seen alot of different sparkplug options out there from ngk to autolite to champion. what is the best bang for the buck? i am not an avid racer but do like the performance. most of my mods have been to increase MPG especially with gas prices today, but would like a good performing plug that will last a while for the best value. any suggestions????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
I wouldn't use any lube to get the original plugs out because it's messy and I don't think it's necessary, but it won't hurt if you chose to use it. My suggestion would be to go with the Champions (stock replacements). These are relatively inexpensive and should last as long as the originals. Exotic plugs will last longer, but they're expensive when you have to buy 16 of them, and you wouldn't be able to measure the difference in performance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
Advice- Just take your time and be sure to have a few different extensions and a universal joint for your ratchet. Drivers side sucks because brake booster is in the way but if you lay across the motor...it can be done! Also helps to remove the airfilter and Hemi housing from ontop of motor.
 

·
Wingviper
Joined
·
235 Posts
Like these guys say, just take your time and do 1 cylinder at a time, I would not spray any lub into the spark plug holes as dirt may go into your cylinders after plug removal.

I just changed my plugs out 2 weeks ago, the factory does use anti-seize, you will need grease for the plug boots and anti-seize for the plugs, just wipe away any dirt from the cylinder you are working on before removing plugs.

The hardest plugs to get to are the back 2 cylinders on drivers side, took me about 4 hours going slow, but spent some time looking for a dropped coil pack bolt, they should not come out of the coil packs but this one did so watch it.
 

·
MrDestinE
Joined
·
664 Posts
Perhaps I have just put on too much weight... but I found it easier to remove the drivers side wheel liner and go from underneath to reach the plugs...... I had a few plugs that were VERY HARD to remove, such that I had to back them out and til they got tight and go back in several times to get them out.... be careful and do not force anything.... perhaps the factory did use antisieze but the threads on mine were dry. I did not remove mine til almost 60K as the truck was running so well, when I took them out the gaps were too wide and still looked good for that many miles.
I replaced them with NGK 4306 plugs, did not notice any increase in performance... bummer...

TJ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,616 Posts
Make sure the engine is cool and not hot!
You don't want to chance taking out hot plugs in an aluminum engine (heads). I have seen where a guy had a hard time getting a particular plug out and ended up back out the threads while reefing out the plug. Yes, the engine was still hot to touch. It happened to be a 2001 Chrysler intrepid. His head had to be removed to get the filings out. It would of been more expensive had he taken it to the dealership to do it.
A friend of mine who is a great mechanic, ended up doing the job. He says you take a chance when doing it with the engine hot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
There is no doubt that the rear four plugs on each side are hard to get out without a mechanic's arsonal of extensions and adapters. You just have to be patient, definitely wait for the engine to cool completely and use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads when you install the new ones. There was no anti-sieze on the factory plugs when i removed them. I used NGK V-Power plugs, Stk. #5306. You can gap these plugs to .050". Factory Champions are gapped at .045".
 

·
Valdez Racing Team
Joined
·
13,913 Posts
..I used Iridiums and loved the performance very much...I just changed to bosch platinum +2's and they seem to perform just the same as the iridiums...
 

·
Plotting 2 get in tha 12s
Joined
·
198 Posts
I just did mine the other day, for the price I would go with the stock champions I think its part # 4705, alot more cost effective than the other ones. One thing I noticed is that if u unscrew the coil pack bolts half way they will release from the valve covers and will stay in the coil pack and not fall out so just leave them in the coil packs since the drivers side two u have to reach like hell to get them. Do what everyone else said have a beer or two or three relax and take your time. The back two I would recommend putting your long socket, swivel, and short extention in to get the plug first and then attach your rachet or torque wrench next, cause having everything connected like that there is no room to get it in there to retrieve the plug.
 

·
Dodge Tech
Joined
·
1,609 Posts
tell u the bast way i came up with is a good warm saturday afternoon and Some insperation wich is 2 12 packs of bud and ull be good to go
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
430 Posts
hemidogg said:
tell u the bast way i came up with is a good warm saturday afternoon and Some insperation wich is 2 12 packs of bud and ull be good to go
Bud Light in my case (pun intended).
 

·
Plotting 2 get in tha 12s
Joined
·
198 Posts
guess I should have specified which beer to drink to do the best job, bud light will work fine! haha
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top