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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My ram 1500 5.2 keeps running up to about 230-240 on highway driving but if I turn the heater on it cools right to 200. I continue to burp it even after driving, etc... and it didnt have this problem till I flushed my system a month ago.

I also have problem with what feels like a load transfer in the driveline after letting off the brakes at a light. I checked the diff and there is no excessive play and the backlash is good, U-joints are also good.
Thanks for any help.

:gr_patrio
 

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I know this is stating the obvious but: Did you hose off the radiator fins from the backside to get all of the dirt and crud from in between the fins (especially if you off-road)? Another possibility is always that your thermostat went bad (or was damaged in flushing - if it was still in). Turning on the heater partially compensates for the stuck shut or partly shut thermostat (not much going to your radiator but plenty coolant going through the heater which is acting as your radiator).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put in a new OEM radiator at the same time and a new thermostat ,when I flushed. the system still gets topped off every morning it isnt leaking anywhere or burning antifreeze. The headgaskets are good also... good thoughts though. Thanks
 

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Is the thermostat oem too? I've had ones from the parts store not work. My sisters neon had the same problem, replaced the thermostat (new one from autozone) with an oem one and it corrected the problem.
 

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That's why I like Dodges!
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Not to be disrespectful, but are you dead positive the thermo was installed the correct direction? It could be something that simple, and it would be something that i would accidentally overlook.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the concern... I understand the accidental habit of installing upside down. I installed it upright though, I wish it could something that easy to fix(even though its a pain in the a** to even get at it. Good thought though.

On another note I put the truck back up on ramos today and tryed to reburp it and didnt really get any results.

I do appretiate all the replies, and maybe I(with everyones help) can get this resolved.
 

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Ironram
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the fin on the top of the t stat has to be faceing front to back is the tstat a prestone i put one in a couple weeks ago and it was to tall for the intake manifold which when i took off it over heated swapped the tstat out for a shorter one and just fineor if there is an air bubble the temp sensor is to the left of the tstat housing behind the alt get a deep 1/2 in socket and xtension pull the wire off and un screw that then use a piece of tissue or thread tape and wrap the nut section and put back in the socket so it dont fall out of the socket when trying to put back in hope this helps
 

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You said you had the truck on ramps and that you waited until the t-stat opened..but did not say if you had the heater on or not? If the heater is on. It can be a good indicator of if the system is full.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yes I did have the Heater on, and it didnt get over 200-212, until I drove it then I had to turn the heater on to cool it back down while driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thats something I havent tried yet..... I will do that in the morning, hope that works.

Thanks for the idea.... But everyone keep them coming in; It hopefully will work, but you never know.

Erik
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Arrrggg!!!
I ended up draining and blowing out the coolant in the entire system this afternoon, there wasnt a drop left, and put in new coolant, this time I used the same ELC that I use in my Mack. Still looking for Ideas if this doesnt work.

Thanks everyone so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I have just givin up on trying to figure out why it is running hot. If anyone happens to think on why it could still be doing it let me know, If not then I thank everyone for your help.
 

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OK! Couple more ideas. How's your fan clutch? I can't exactly remember how to test it but it involves hand turning it when the engine is off (naturally!). Also did you check the little water pump pump bypass hose to see if it is leaking or pulling vacuum? Finally compression check to see if there is a head gasket problem. Other than that I don't know. It shouldn't be heating like that...My 360 ram has been real normal in the 105" summer heat...usin regular Prestone...even when pulling the mountain passes
 

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The system should "burp" itself with in a few heat cycles. I hate to say it but is sounds like a head gasket issue. Check the oil for the 'milky' suprise. If not then check the spark plugs. If one is really clean and the porclin if very white then it is getting water and it is being steam cleaned. Just my 2 cents worth.

Eric
 

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Ironram
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pull the tstat out hook the hose back up and see if it heats up again you can pull the stat out with out removing the accesopries you an xtension get the 2 bolts out pull the hose and housing in on piece up and tilt it it will come out ive done mine like that a few times first time is a pain cause the housing has a tab on the front that says front and that is what makes it such a pain then during reassembley take the hose off and do it in 2 pieces and turn the hoseclamp so you can reach it with a screwdriver from behind the alt other wise you sure you didnt leave a rag or something in one of the hose's the tstat is the easiest thing to check first
 

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One other FYI deal. I have always made it a habit of drilling a very small hole in the T-stat to assist in 'burping' the system. The small amount of passing water when cold is no big deal but the air release from the small hole is a real time saver.

I have been doing this for years on all of my cars and have had no negetive effects. Some of the european makers have a small check valve on the T-stat for this very reason. Others use a bleed screw in the T-stat housing.

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well, I think we found the problem..... bad thermostat-lol, Will advise when I get it changed out. I will try the small hole trick to make it burp quicker.

Thanks
 
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