[derherr65]

Here we go again. She's found a 2002 or 2003 2500, single rear wheels, diesel, quadcab, longbed, 200,000 miles, 5 speed manual. Super clean, little or no towing, claims almost all highway miles. I need to know everything to inspect or check before 8am. Please help me out. Dealer is asking $10,900.

 

[derherr65]

It's an '01, listed for $9999.

 

[derherr65]

With correct numbers $11,100 and $11,600 from NADA and KBB. Ebay about $9000.

I've got sales adds for two other diesels with 150K miles for $10,000, but they are automatics. There are a lot going for $12K to $16K in the 180K+ miles range. I'm leaning towards decent price at $10,000.

We want service records if possible, and the dealer to do a lift pump check, injection pump check, Track bar/ball joints check, clutch check, and check if it's the dreaded "53" block.

Any other helpful tips? Interior or body checks? Things I've missed in the drive train?

 

[98QuadCabV10]

I think you have it all covered. Wouldn't hurt to have a compression check and cooling system pressure check also. I would be mostly worried about the cooling system. Could have a cracked block. I always think of reasons why someone would sell there truck.
Also check for rust. I don't know much about diesels so can't help you out on the engine.
Check axles, transfer case (if 4x4) drive lines, U joints, and the famous hub bearing.

 

[derherr65]

carfax, cliff notes version.
09/19/2001- 7- - First owner reported.
10/16/2001- 4,963- Service Facility- Vehicle serviced.
01/17/2002- 15,631- Service Facility- Vehicle serviced.
09/11/2002- 46,101- Service Facility- Vehicle serviced.
- Fuel system serviced.
08/14/2003- 92,279- Service Facility- Vehicle serviced.
looks clean

 

[bobem12]

sounds like a pretty good deal to me. When I read your post I was gonna say lift pump, injection pump, and 53 block check but you already got it. I think those are the 3 big things to check.

 

[derherr65]

Remember that thing I mentioned about 8am? It's bought.
So, now what to check?
Suspension looks and feels good.
Steering looks and feels good.
Body looks good.
Interior looks good.
Engine looks and sounds good. (55 block)
Clutch engauges high with a long throw, but I'm used to a mechanical 1965, not hydraulic 2001. Is this ok?
Driver window was dragging, they greased it and it quit.

First on the to buy list, a service manual and a fuel pressure meter. Any suggestions?

 

[derherr65]

Found a holley electric fuel pressure gauge 0-15PSI for $74 at jegs and a haynes manual for $22 at barnes and nobles. Are those both good ideas, or can I get better prices elsewhere?

 

[bobem12]

If you look on a diesel only forum most of the guys will say go with a mechanical fuel pressure gauge since its more reliable....but personally I would never run a mechanical into the cab. They say that the electric fp gauges fail to often but running fuel into the cab doesn't sit right with me. One question, where exactly do you see the "55" block or "53" if thats what would've been in it? I'm going to get one of this year cummins eventually and I want to be able to check. By the way, congrats on the purchase....got any pics for us?

 

[derherr65]

Ditto, never ever run a gas line in the cab. Diesel is less dangerous, but still a bad idea.

55 or 53, ect is in 1 inch tall numbers right above the oil pan on the front left or front right of the block.

 

[jblank513]

what is wrong with the 53 block im in the market for a diesel and what is the difference

 

[derherr65]

53 blocks have a tendancy to crack horizontally near the freeze plugs. I believe the technical term for this is "bad thing." :evillaugh

 

[derherr65]

The options I have found for a lift pump pressure warning are:

www.SummitRacing.com
MAA-29806 - Pressure Gauge Isolator, 80 psi Maximum, Kit - $63.95
RUS-658270 - Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -4 AN Female End, Blue/-4 AN Female End, Blue, 24 in. Length, Each - $20.69
RUS-658310 - Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -4 AN Female End, Blue/-4 AN Female End, Blue, 36 in. Length, Each - $23.39
SUM-800130 - Gauge, Fuel Pressure, 0-30 psi, 1 1/2 in., Analog, Mechanical, Each - $17.95
tapped banjo bolt - $7.00 (www.genosgarage.com)
Approx. $155

www.xtremediesel.com
BD-Power Low Fuel Pressure Alarm Light Kit (Red) – 5PSI warning - $50
Approx. $50

www.genosgarage.com
WESTACH - 2" FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE 30PSI (1/8NPT SENDING UNIT) - $75.00
tapped banjo bolt - $7.00
Approx. $82

I believe I like the Genosgarage option the best. A gauge rather than a warning light, easy electrical connections and wire routing rather than fuel lines and pressure lines and large holes in the firewall, and half the price to boot. Am I missing anything?

 

[FredCHunholz]

Tell us more regarding "53" and "55" block. What causes the "crack"?

 

[mocho]

Tell us more regarding "53" and "55" block. What causes the "crack"?

Basicly some of the blocks cracked under pressure. Most of the ones that cracked were towing heavy in the hot mountains and REALLY making the truck work. My 01 has the 53 block, it's fine after 185k miles. Really if the 53 block isn't cracked/leaking after about 120,000 miles it's not going to crack. If you have a choice, I would not get the 53 block but I wouldn't not buy a truck just because it has it.