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I had a '72 Charger/340 with a 650 CFM Holley 4bbl. Coarse that was 40 years back when I was young, dumb, immortal and I thought I knew everything about everything, lol. Never could get that Holley to work rite with my level of expertise back then dammit!!! However, now I'm older, I kinda miss the challenge of yesteryears technology.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Eventually I would like a Holley sniper or similar but the carb just seemed like a good cheap choice. I could have used the 95s comp and mpfi setup but I think it was still obd1 too. Even getting say a 98s comp and harness to me it seems silly trying to update the motor to a 20yr old system. I enjoyed rebuilding the carb as I had never done that before but made the mistake of not replacing the needle valves. I think I remember looking at them and just saying they work so why replace em. Not realizing there was an o ring missing on each one . The carb was just pouring gas into the motor when the fuel pump came on and didn’t take me too long to figure it out but it had flooded the intake. Replaced both needle floats with the ones still in the carb rebuild box and the gas stopped pouring out. It did lock up the motor tho and I had to take out all plugs and crank over by hand while gas spat out a couple of cylinders ( let it dry out over night). Which reminds me about the pump - the factory computer or ecm sends a ground signal to the pumps relay to get it to engage. Without the hall dissy sensors this signal doesn’t work any more so I worked around it by just grounding that wire (blue/yellow stripe) to the fender. Warning tho at the moment when key is on the pump runs - so in a crash without keying off it will keep running which isn’t ideal. I will look into running it from an oil pressure switch somewhere to deactivate when the motor stops.

The acc power wire that does activate that Fuel pump (ASD I think is the correct term for it) relay (blue/white stripe)I tied in the smaller red line for the MSD box and the smaller line activating the relay for the electric fans. The fans relay is hiding behind the battery with the 2 other headlight relays secured by the computer.




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Yeah, ye 'ol ASD relay is one of the genius devices that I thought motor city came up with. It also doubles as a great check on an adultress x-wife...but that was my design, not theirs!!! ;)
 

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If you're looking for a distribution box with fuses, there's several on Amazon now that should be nice.

Blue Sea makes some primo ones. However, there's other brands out there - here's a Vetomile 10 circuit that comes with some fuses: https://smile.amazon.com/VETOMILE-Terminal-Indicator-Waterpoof-Automotive/dp/B074XQPMNT/

Or, if you're being cheap/n/nasty, hunt up a 70's Chevy or GMC truck; they have a buss bar that can be had for just a couple of bucks. Battery cable into one big side, out the other big side (5/16-18 bolt IIRC), and like five take offs between (1/4-20 IIRC, but I may be off either way on both.) Use a nylon lock nut on them, and they won't loosen up on you.

(I've got the GMC bar, and a six-outlet fuse box, so I can add non-factory items to my truck, such as a subwoofer, my autodim mirror, the USB charger ports, etc.)

If you also want a heavy gauge SWITCHED buss, I'd use a 200A relay to feed a switched fuse block.

They also have a PDC style setup - six ATC/ATO fuses, six relays, all in one plastic housing. That might be even better for you. Or maybe not; it's just a nice thing to keep in mind.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #65
So it’s alive !- such a good feeling to get the motor finally up and running. It started off quick once I found out my MSD box ignition power source from the fuse box was going dead during cranking. Found another power source (asd) and it fired right up. Topped up fluids needed and checked over everything (no leaks ). The voltage reg is working great at 14.4volts with the fans running. Had more carb issues with the Holley - it was idling super rich.

Borrowed a buddies brand new QFT slayer 750 carb and swapped it on to see any there were any difference and it helped out a lot. Idles so much better and can now go through the gears going down the street without stumbling and popping. I have been messing with timing too now and realizing I should have set up the distributor better before putting it in. Stock it comes with the heavier springs( brings the total timing in at 5.5k rpm) to slow the advance curve and a stop bushing of about 22 degrees total. I’m still researching into this but have been told I need about 20 degrees btdc at idle as I have no vac advance then a total of about 32 at around 2.5k rpm. So I ordered some custom bushings that give 14 or 10 degrees total advance(MSD supplies like 4 other ones with the lowest being 18). This will let me set at 22ish idle and then total out at 32.By changing to the lighter springs too this total advance can come in earlier like 2.5k. I need to get the timing sorted before adjusting carbs around please chime in if my info is off as I’m learning here. I also have been told that the 1 1/2 turns out from bottom for the idle screws is way to rich (thought I read that somewhere)on the 4160 Holley so that could have explained the idle problem. Either way I’ll have to fix it as I’m not sure if I have float needle issue still or just order a new carb as the new one was a world of difference. With the timing set at idle 20btdc it ran better too except at higher rpms it’s total would be over 40 which isn’t good. I’ve only taken it down the end of the street and back but it did shift through the gears well with a slight bog on gassing it on the last run. It’s pretty loud with the turn downs and has a great rumble maybe to aggressive or probably just need to get use to it. Still need to tune it better to get a good feel for the power increase but I’m positive that it will be there.


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Have you tried "smaller" carb jets yet? I remember that even with a 650 CFM on my charger (340 n a mild roller, hi-endurance street cam n a single plane dominator intake), I still needed a full set of different sized jets to get my beast to run how I wanted on the street. I used the prestigious school of hard knox...literally and figuratively...to get her to run.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
So the Holley actually had way smaller jets than stock (leading me to believe someone was trying to fix a problem) and I didn’t want to mess with the borrowed qft much as I had to return it to the owner. I got the bushing kit in for the distributor

Swapped out the springs to the lighter blue ones and put the 10* total bushing in. Set it to 22* initial and totals out at 32* nice and early on the rpms. Also went ahead and ordered a new carb as it will probably end up staying this way for a while. I know I have been all over the show with buying cheap parts and expensive ones but that’s just the way it goes on this build. I got the qft-680-vs-ss one of the top models electric choke vac secondary carbs. Still was running kinda rich at idle but after another oil change (got rid of gas contaminated oil) and a lil bit of adjusting to the idles/choke/air screws it’s running real nice. I found an acc hot wire from the tbi harness that I cut away and used it to power the choke.

I had to modify the air filter spacer abit to clear the choke shaft and found a cool cheap specter air cleaner on Facebook marketplace.

I still have a bunch of wire cleaning up to do but it runs great now and sounds like a beast. The hoods back on and finally the front bumper yest. Took it down to the gas station to get some non ethanol 90 to keep the carb happy. So it’s not done by far but I feel I met my goal of beating the deadline. I don’t have much time to work on it right now but still have to hook up the AC and tidy up a lot of stuff. Will keep updating.


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Just a note to all DIY'ers...I had ta pound out my cat (96 ram 318/no death tune-factory ECM), cause it was broken and clogging the exhaust. Since I did that, 'Ol Blue has the ping disease. Even with a leaky plenum, it only had a slight ping. After my plenum fix, it NEVER clattered or pinged. My scanner is now indicating long term lean and short term rich (+/- 10) and she pings...dammit. Gotta be the lack of a cat effecting the mixture...any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #70
No idea about the cat situation other than checking the 02 sensor and maybe replacing ?. Yes probably will stick with the carb as it was a healthy investment- the Holley sniper is cool but perhaps more suited to someone who had carb problems , issues with drivability in extreme climates or wants to keep that stockish muscle car motor look. So far I’m real impressed with the trucks performance and with a few more tweaks (accelerator pump cam swap) this setup will be perfect for what I want. A future upgrade could/would be a gen 3 hemi like a 392 - they seem to be more popular now and easier to install. Doing it all over again I should have gone that route as I almost got a rebuilt 5.7 motor/trans for 2 grand in a deal. I’m looking for an old charger or challenger for that to be the next project.


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I've always wanted to find/buy a '70 Cuda AAR with the 340/6 pak. I ran a 340 n my Charger n boy did it scream for a small block engine. Couldn't tell you the pony/torque specs, but supposedly, the short block was a blueprint build (I got the 202 heads first-separate). I had carb problems all the time (Holley 650 CFM). My 727 tranny went thru torque converters waaay too much. Good luck!...we're all counting on you!
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Went out for a photo op drive as I wanted some better pictures to post. No real updates on the truck - still tidying up the engine bay and center console and will post more pics about that but this is just for fun.










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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
Is there any chance you will reply to my PM?



I'd really appreciate that.


Haven’t got any from you unless for some reason I don’t see them on my phone - will check on computer later tonight. Since I’m here posting - the lastest fixes were the radiator zip tie holders that had to go. They were temporarily holding the E fans on. Got some strap metal from HD to fix the battery hold down strap( I kept breaking the cheap rubber ones).

I was able to reuse one original bolt location and self tapped the other ones to hold the brackets to the core support. So no cutting on the fans shroud and a nice tight fit.




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How is progress now?

I'm still awaiting a reply to my PM, or if you let me know your e.mail address I'll confer with you that way. There is a question I would like to ask privately.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Ray I sent you another PM - hopefully you will get it through dodgetalk via Tapatalk on my ph. I don’t see any PMs logging onto the computer anymore altho a while back when you posted I did and replied to you. Update :

I have been cleaning up the wiring and using the loom/hose covers I got from the junkyard to tidy up the engine bay.

I had a catch can from a challenger that I removed before trading that i wanted to utilize too. I had to swap valve covers so the PCV was on the passenger side valve cover. I wanted to mount the catch can on that fender as the A/C hoses would be there as well and the other side had no room. Will be interested to see how much it collects compared to the hemi.

I got custom hoses made from my local Napa merging the newer compressor ends with the 88s lines and trucks connections.

Shop charged it up but they couldn’t get the compressor to come on tho other than hot wiring it. I discovered that by grounding the relay the compressor clutch would engage. Some more research and I figured the computer wasn’t sending the ground signal.

By cutting the brown wire off the low pressure switch and running a jumper to the cut blue/yellow ground on the relay, I have bypassed the computer and it is working /cycling now using the switch inside cab. I just guess it doesn’t have the WOT cut out anymore so will adjust as necessary. As recommended by a carb expert I put a heat shield under the carb to help cure any fuel heat problems that might arrive now it’s summer.
I was interested in the hood heat shields that LMC had but didn’t care too much for their design option. Found this https://www.quietride.com/ seem to be the company that lmc gets them from. Called em and got one for the 78-79 hood I have with the newer 2nd gen logos even. They have a detailed YouTube vid on how to install. I wasn’t planning on taking off the hood but found none of the holes lined up for the hood so figured it would be easier/cleaner to remove and drill the 1/4” holes. Other than that install was straight forward and I’m super happy with it. You can tell the difference (sound wise) in the cabin while driving- plus it will protect the new painted hood I have.






I’m now in the suspension upgrade planning stage - so more to come. Anyone with a rear sway bar sitting on the shelf hit me up please.



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Discussion Starter #77
So I’m still waiting on some parts for the front end but this sway bar I got from pst just couldn’t wait. It bolted on fairly easy - needed to drill a couple holes in the frame to attach it too other than that it was bolt on. 2 of the bushings they sent were the wrong size for the strut rods ( did send out correct ones free that I have now) but installed them anyways. Its a 1” bar and has cut out a lot of the body roll around corners - very noticeable.

I have yet to put the right bushings on the strut bar ends and maybe you can see how they have squished out on an angle. The geometry on that end could be better or maybe I have it installed wrong not sure but it just doesn’t line up great. I will probably have to detach when I do the front end work and will fix the bushings then. Not even sure if this will work when it gets dropped as the clearance is close to the tie rod.

Another mod I’ve seen and been meaning to do : add an access door to the air box where leaves collect. I didn’t think mine would have much but I was sure wrong - it was packed.

This is a 4” deck plate access door that you can pick up from amazon cheaply. Drilled the hole and cleaned out the squirrel nest in the air box. Put a bead of sealant around the flange and screwed it into place. Now I have an access port to open up and clean out the leaves that collect in there.

Use a proper 4” hole bit or be very careful to make it a clean cut.


I had to Dremel grind around the hole to make it slightly larger than the 4” to fit the flange in.

I use to hear a leaf or 2 fluttering around in there - reason I didn’t think much would be in there but now it won’t be a problem.



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Some nice detail there, really nice...

Once you start on a job it seems you're like me, got a little bit overboard to get it right.

And you've reminded me I must look at the strut bar bushes on my van, if I need any I should get them in the box I'm having shipped soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Still waiting on front end parts for the drop. I have done a few other small mods tho. Found some parts in a truck that turned up at the local yard. Picked these off it and went back and got the perfect dash trim and instrument cluster for a future project.

Plan is to make a black / smoked marker grille as an option and white faced gauges with LEDs. I’m not sure if I will like white gauges with the extra reflection but haven’t been doing any night time driving either. Hubcaps went up on the wall and tailgate could be a future fold down work bench or sitting bench. I did get a LED bulb for the center console tach to match the other gauges and figured I’d upgrade some other interior lights too.

Gauges now look great together.


Big increase in light for the interior - went with a bright white led color. Had to make a small modification to the map light as the wire ends of the bulb are rounded and not squared like the original one that is held on by 2 tabs. Bend the wires to fit and had to solder as well - lost one LED but got it working. Before and after shots in garage with door closed and lights off.

And map light before and after

Replaced the bed light too didn’t get any before shots but it’s way brighter now ( bright white LED color ).

Got several other green and white bulbs for the dash gauges but haven’t done them yet. Ordered this AFR gauge form summit

Had good reviews and looked like it was a quality piece. Has the CEOs pic on the box
must be good if he puts his face on it. Pretty simple install other than figuring out where to put the gauge. Drill hole in exhaust and weld in the O2 bung.

Uses the common Bosch 02 sensor included with the kit - keyed power and ground. Wires from the 02 actually follow starter wires and get held to firewall with the metal bendable tabs - into the cab via the hole all the other wires go though. Connect it all and it’s up and running. I used this spot in the dash ( nothing behind it )

Ground out the top of the hole so the gauge would sit flush and have a slight angle tilting upwards.


Sure enough after truck was warmed up I could dial in the idle (1/8 turn in on 4 corners) to about 13 ish then when dropped into gear it’s right on 14. Was previously sitting around 11 (these numbers are a ratio to 1). Will have to do some more research and testing but looks like the carb is running real good - lil on the rich side 12-13 cruising and 11-12 hard acceleration. It’s so sensitive it does jump around abit but will be a valuable addition for tuning.


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Discussion Starter #80
Ordered this fuel line set up from summit a while back - finally got round to installing it to clean up the engine bay a bit more- the previous way I had it was temporary and had too many breaks in the line for my liking.

I reused the plastic gaskets that came with the carb instead of the thin metal ones that came with the fuel lines. Put some gas approved thread sealer on the fuel press gauge threads as that is a common leaking spot on the summit lines. Tightened everything down good and didn’t have any leaks (must be a first messing with carbs fuel lines). I moved the fuel filter down further (just out of sight in pic) my reasoning being that if it ever was to leak it will not get on the engine/headers as much- dunno if that is true but it’s a cheap clear plastic type filter and will eventually be replaced with a better one.

(Just noticed that fuel line left laying there - should have removed for the pic)
Suspension parts are in !

Moog van Lower Control Arms , custom uppers, new kyb shocks for all 4 corners.


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