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Discussion Starter #41
So I few things I have learnt : if I was doing this over again I probably would re use the whole front end accessories from my 88 truck and save a few dollars / headaches but I wanted to be cool and have a serpentine belt . The original plan was to use the newer trans that was with the magnum. It was a 46rh with TC lock up and OD. I got a kit from patc that runs the 46rh with pressure/vacuum switches so it will run it self with out a comp controlling the only electrical part (the OD and TC lockup https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/patc-727-to-518-46rh-conversion-kit-click-here-for-727-to-46rh-swap-wiring-diagram/. Well I’ve changed my mind on that as my original trans is an A998/A999 and has a lockup TC and will bolt up to the magnum motor. Ive been told the older trans is stronger and the opposite ,seems there is a lot of variations / misinformation on some of this stuff in the late 80s early 90s. I do think tho that the A999 or 998 has a lower first gear than the 46rh and is stronger but that’s just a guess at this point. This will also save me having to modify a crossmember and shorten the driveshaft which I was planning on. I’ll hold on the 46rh and maybe get it rebuilt for a future upgrade/repair.Not sure how the computer will work the TC anymore so maybe the switch kit will still come in handy. So the magnum 360 is externally balanced - normally the weight is on the flex plate but in the early/mid 90s they were weighted/ balanced on the TC as well. This is my 46rh TC and flex plate on the magnum (you can see the weight on TC and nothing on the flexplate)

So my A999 trans has a neutral balanced TC shown in this pic below

I needed to order a weighted FP from a later mag part # z-332 to bolt to motor. This is it lined up with 3 bolts in

It requires one of the holes to be elongated with a rat tail file to match the TC before torquing to the motor



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Discussion Starter #42
Old trans pulled out

And cleaned up

By re using it I will be able to plug back the speedo too and not figure out how to get the other one to work. The neutral/park safety switch looks the same on both but different OD/TC connections obviously. Below is a picture of the mag with the 46rh loosely attached and the 318/A998 out as well



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Discussion Starter #43

Drivers side motor mount is a little different but used washers and a new grade 8 bolt to put the mount where it needs to be.

Passenger side fits just the same as the old la318.


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Discussion Starter #44

With help from a buddy got the motor sitting in place this weekend. Was pretty disappointed tho as the headers just aren’t going to work. We were working with the drivers side as I knew that was the worst - had motor jacked up and starter out off the way but they would hit the frame bad on the cross piece to the motor mount cross section. I could have cut frame and significantly crushed a tube but just wasn’t willing to go that far. So anyways ordered some stainless block huggers and will see how they do. I got the power steering pump on and the fitting to the steering box went on without too much hassle. Just had to bend the clamp/bracket a bit to go over the hard line.

I took the battery tray off as it was an eye sore in the pretty clean engine bay. It’s been stripped and painted and will look into a new hold down devise of some sorts as the original was corroded and nasty.



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Happy New Year brother!!! Just wondering how the electric fan is werkin' out for ya? I'd like to do the same to 'Ol blue. Dijya need a bigger alternator n cabling to handle the greater current draw n if so how much bigger?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Happy New Years to you too and to all that are reading. I am looking at the alt situation right now. I went to take the nut off the 95s original alt and the whole post as well twisted off. Corrosion and heat/resistance had fried the end. It was a 90amp and my 88s was a 90amp as well. I took a trip to the yard today to look for another - I could of got a new but they are so expensive and I wanted to look for some other parts too. Picked up 2! One was one a 99 5.2 Durango which is a 117amp I believe and another one on a 2000 dodge v10 truck which is a 120 amp. I didn’t notice until I got home that the pulley from the v10 looks like it’s a groove short but can be swapped over I’m sure - at $20 each figured I’d get both. Below is the old busted alt and the v10s trucks one

Stripped some of these wire looms where ever I could to clean things up under the hood too. Below is the 117amp alt on the motor test fitting.

It has some wires already tinkered with in the back and I picked one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFF-7530B voltage regulators to make it work. I keep hearing my 88s comp isn’t going to regulate the voltage anymore with the carb swap. With the fans and few other things I’ve added I’m sure the higher amp alt is needed maybe even higher than 120. I will upgrade the wires but haven’t gotten into the harness too much as I’ve just been mocking stuff up and ordering parts (like headers/gaskets).



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Discussion Starter #47
Some of the things that were a fight with the crosswinds intake : didn’t know it’s not meant to work with AC - whoops. So had to get creative with a grinder on the compressor and bracket to make things work. Below is the bracket with a corner removed to clear where a water jacket opening is. I’m going to use 3 bolts to hold down the compressor and the next pictures show the trimming needed to clear for the thermostat neck/hose (had to remove the whole ear that the bolt goes through).




Then right underneath the compressor is a larger water jacket opening which I had put a plug in but now need it for a mechanical water temp gauge. The probe is so deep that that spot is needed so might get the grinder out for a notch in the bottom of the compressor for the line to fit. There is a smaller water jacket opening that the factory temp probe goes in fine. I have a new triple pod gauge pack to give some accurate readings that will be mounted in the console but would like to retain as much as the factory stuff as well. The oil pressure line and original sender I’m planning on connecting with a T (used the HD hardware that I got for the trans switches). Below is the oil pressure connections back by the dissy.



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Discussion Starter #49
Got some of the gauge stuff done tonight. I had the lines crossing through the firewall over by where I ran a power line through a plastic grommet/cap but that wasn’t gonna work. Had to drill a new hole more in the middle for the shorter water temp line

Filed the edges and put a rubber grommet around the edge to protect the lines / ran the oil through that hole as well and will seal it up when everything is finalized.

Drilled out holes in the console and definitely double checked my measurements

I found this orange line up under the dash by the light switch and it just so happens to tap into power from the dimmer. It wasn’t being used and was taped up out the way but now powers the lights on gauges so they dim as well now.

The console is now complete - covered the shifter hole a while ago and got these mopar car coaster things for Christmas. The gauges match the original ones but the light color is off so will look into some green bulbs or something to get it closer. Here’s a few pics.



It’s not bolted down yet or set in place (pretty close) just Incase I need to deal with any issues on start up. Picked up the Goodyear floor mats at the yard as well and the counter guy just gave em to me . They did need a good cleaning but I couldn’t stand the red ones anymore.


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Discussion Starter #50
Picked up these 2 pieces for the throttle and trans cable (TV/kick down whatever you want to call it).

Did a lot of looking around and just decided to replace the cables too to make it easy. The trans cable clicks on the factory stud and gets routed back (bolted to tail)before looping to the front as the factory rod setup would push the trans lever when accelerating.

The throttle cable was a bit more of a hassle as I tried to use the factory hole in firewall. The directions stated it needs to line up with the pedal connector and for good reason. My pedal was sticky and the cable was actually grinding out the threaded sleeve piece in the factory position.

Drilled the new hole for more correct alignment.

The new hole was right on the crease of the firewall where the factory had stamped it out for the other cable. I ground down some washers and massaged the wall a little to get a more even angle to the pedal. Washers also helped space the treaded rod further back from the pedal so it doesn’t hit it when at rest (off throttle)

With the inner wire out again I could remove the lokar clevis attachment and put the factory piece back on to secure to the pedal (note : read and follow instructions better). Put the bung back in the old firewall hole with a vac cap blocking it off.

Below is the setup on the Holley keep in mind that intake is taped off as carb isn’t bolted down finally as well as some fine tune adjusting. I ended up cutting about a foot of each of the cable housings to get them to spec.



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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Headers came in (cheap ss block huggers from eBay)and got some nice thick remflex gaskets to seal them up. So much easier than fighting with the long tubes.

Ground out a notch in the bottom of the poor AC compressor.

At this point it’s more of an experiment seeing if this thing will ever work. Put the cleaned up battery tray back on and have started to deal with the wiring and power issues.



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Discussion Starter #52
Got the exhaust done at a shop last weekend. Had to tow it there and back but will make startup much more pleasant. Went with flowmaster 40s and 2.5”pipes. I’m hoping it’s not too loud as I wanted a good rumble but nothing obnoxious. Got the tips turned down just before the rear axle as later this year I’m thinking of lowering and an exhaust exit through the rear quarters possibly.



Such a disappointment getting new exhaust and not hearing the new sound but this weekend I hopefully will. I’ve had this leftover wrap for like 15yrs and finally found a use for it as the trans lines are crossing the pipe awfully close.



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Discussion Starter #53
When taking on a project like this organization helps a lot. I had so many labeled bags of bolts and brackets. I tried to reuse all the factory nuts and bolts as much as possible as they have such cool detail under all the grease and grime. Below are an alternator bolt and nut for example.

A bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean them up and locktite or antiseeze depending on application will help you out in the long run. A decent tap and die set will assist in a smooth engine refresh / rebuild too.


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Lookin' sweet!!! Only car guys could look at an exhaust pipe on a steel box that is designed to roll down the road n see art. Why r the mufflers arranged that way, aren't you affraid they'll hit the ground goin' over things like speed bumps, etc?!?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
It’s probably tucked up higher than it looks Jet. I wasn’t concerned about it when I first saw it and looking at it again the camera angles were way down low looking up. Here’s a couple more pics further back to get better perspective.


Above you can see the tips and muffler bottom just to the right of the pumpkin. I’m not worried about them hitting anything anymore than the gas tank or driveshaft.


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Discussion Starter #56
I should have posted this already but one of the first things I did to the truck was get a new radiator and hoses. Got an all aluminum one from radiator express and replaced all the hoses as the 318 seemed to be rotting on the inside and was overheating. Radiator was leaking and clogged up. I’m wondering if water had rusted out the block because all the original hoses had corrosion caked inside them. Even now with flushing before the swap there was still rust is the radiator. So the crown Vic’s fan didn’t work, it was too fat so to speak. But another slimmer alternative is a dual setup from a 96 caravan. It’s wired so both fans run simultaneously and dimensions are almost perfect.

I have it hanging using some extra rad cooler zip ties I had temporarily and will probably look at getting some threaded rod and securing it better to the core support. It’s wired up to a relay and doesn’t have a temp control right now either (power on fan on).


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Now it looks rite as rain. I'm still waitin' on money to fix up 'Ol blue. I've been wantin' to convert mine to an e-fan for years. Still waitin' on the money for a 150-200 amp alternator with correct gauge wiring. Hows the A/C cool when ure at a stoplite?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
With the alt I thought I could use the small tuff stuff regulator- but when talking to them they say it’s only to replace a part on their alts ? Well there are YouTube vids about the conversion on the older alts but maybe not on these newer ones (got stuck when trying to split the alt). So I sent it back and went with an electronic external mopar regulator. Buying through an amazon mopar store gives a year warranty on the reg and I got the pug from another store. I mounted it up on the firewall with the bolt from the old coil bracket.

Wired it up just like so

I only had blue wire tho so my green second field wire turns into another blue wire to the alt. The original alt harness had a blue wire with key hot power so tapped that into the blue wire to the reg. I custom made a 4ga batt + wire and got a new battery 4ga -ve cable to the block.

Keep in mind this is all rough setup and will be tidied up when I’m happy with it all. I probably will need to make some kind of power distribution box or something as the battery side terminals are getting stacked. Below is before adding the alt 4ga line too !
. Couple other notes from those pictures I went with a metal rad hose on the top as the old one was too close for comfort to the SERP belt. I cut and flared the metal fuel line as it was running right into the back of the alt.

I added hose to get it to fit and put a gauge inline with filter as I removed the original filter.


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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
So where did the stock fuel filter go ?

Well the TBIs fuel pressure would be way too much for the carb so you need a regulator with a return. I had a Holley on order but it kept getting pushed back to ship so ended up with this mr gasket one.

Hunted 3 different parts stores to get the fittings shown. Both inlet and outlet on the sides are 3/8NPT and have 3/8 hose size nipples. The return out the bottom has a 90 piece then 3/8NPT to a 5/16 hose nipple as the trucks return hard line is slightly smaller than the feed. The fuel filter position just seemed like the best spot for it. I still need to make a transitional bracket off the filters attachment to the frame so the reg can be secured better. Below is the reg just kinda hanging there held by the snake of hoses.

The return is supposed to be the same size as the other lines but I’m willing to give it a shot before running all new lines.


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