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Discussion Starter #1
I changed the belts on my 1986 D100 318 5.2 V8 this morning, now, I can't the truck to start. The altenator belt went on fine. The power steering belt went on fine. I hooked the smog pump up too, it had no belt when I bought it. I hooked the smog pump up and tried to start the truck to check the belt tightness, I can not get the truck to start now. Is this a smog pump issue? I have taken the belt off of the smog pump and it still will not start. Did I clog something by hooking the smog pump back up?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Dodgem#2 said:
I changed the belts on my 1986 D100 318 5.2 V8 this morning, now, I can't the truck to start. The altenator belt went on fine. The power steering belt went on fine. I hooked the smog pump up too, it had no belt when I bought it. I hooked the smog pump up and tried to start the truck to check the belt tightness, I can not get the truck to start now. Is this a smog pump issue? I have taken the belt off of the smog pump and it still will not start. Did I clog something by hooking the smog pump back up?

Well, I think I may have inadvertently flooded, said motor engine, and might have possibly fouled the plugs, but, at this time I do not know that, because my high dollar set of Craftsman sockets does not have a 13/16 or 21mm deep socket, so, off to Sears I go, at least this is "a need" and not "a want".

Last week I bought new cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, just to update this beast with my own records, glad I didn't get the urge to change the plugs while my wife was at work this week! I guess my motor truck engine is telling me, "I know you have some new plugs for me... and I want them!"

But anyway, what's the feeling about the smog pump thing being an issue? I drove the truck last night, excellent ride, no issues. Got up this morning, changed the belts and she won't kick it no more, I feel like I have done something "dumb" like pumped it too many times, once is usually enough, but, who knows. Questions, comments, opinions, welcome.
 

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if you think its flooded , then let it sit and try again , i cant see why the smog pump would have had an adverse effect on the truck??? anyway choke the carb out and turn it over, see if it tries to start then.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
92d150lwb said:
if you think its flooded , then let it sit and try again , i cant see why the smog pump would have had an adverse effect on the truck??? anyway choke the carb out and turn it over, see if it tries to start then.

Yeah I know, it's the strangest thing. I've been driving this truck for the week that I've had it, it runs excellent, smooth, quiet and steady. I went out last night about 9am to pick up some food, and this morning about 10am I changed the belts and it would not fire, the only thing I did was added the belt for the smog pump.

I'm confident the smog pump is not at fault, I did take the belt back off and nothing, so, I feel that somewhere I may have over-pumped it and fouled the plugs, so, I went out tonight and got a socket of correct size, and I'll full choke tomorrow, if not I'll pull plugs. I had an '85 D259 22 slixer about 7 years ago and drove that as a daily driver, so, I have lots of symptoms/cures coming back to memory.
 

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i hope you get it all figured out , i am drawing a complete blank if choke/plugs dont help it, after that bring it back to basics. IE: Fuel, Air, Spark at the correct time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, we're at the point right now where we have moved on to electrical.

We replaced the coil about an hour ago and nothing changed. So, tomorrow we're gonna drop a distributor in the old heap and see what happens, the cap and rotor are definitely in need of replacement.

Funny thing is, I drove the truck on three different occasions the other day and it started and ran without a doubt in mind, then I parked it Friday night about 9pm and changed the belts Saturday morning about 10am, tried to start it, and nothing, just a dead turnover. I've gone as far as trying to jump the battery, thinking maybe it's amps were just not enough to kick it over, but, it'll set there and grind away for several minutes so, it's just not getting any fire to the plugs... somehow.

I've tried all kinds of things right down to the safety switch on the brake pedal, fuses, gas lines, gas filter, grounds of all kinds, I leaned over and studies for broken wires, vacuum lines, etc. for about an hour, blew out the tube to the carb from the filter, drained the filter several times, nothing. It is definitely pumping gas to the carb, but, we poured some directly in the carb tonight and it still didn't make a sputter. So, we're confident that there no fire to light the gas. I've even changed the plugs today.

What sickens me is that I only paid $1000.00 for this truck, and it runs great, is in solid condition, no squeaks or anything, I put new tires on it last week, it rides like a cadillac, it has dual pipes, but, it quiet, smooth running, purrs like a kitten. Basically I have fallen in love with the deal, but, now, I'm aggrivated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, here's an update.

I have changed the coil, coil resistor, distributor, and voltage regulator and guess what... It's still will not start, no spark!

I also checked all the fuses, none of them go to the engine anyway.

Let me ask this out of curiosity: Ignition Switch?
(I had a "Chrysler Man" tell me this)

What Ye' Say? Yay? or Nay?




BTW: What is the the unit mounted inside of the driver side fender well? This thing has 2 harnesses with about 10-15 wires each. The air intake hose is hooked up to it with some sort of vacuum control on it, and there is a circuit board inside that is epoxy filled. There is a thermister inside under the small intake hose. This unit mounted behind the battery inside the fender well????

What the????? Does this thing do? Is this some kind of hidden master control module?

Please, I wanna know.
 

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its always worth a shot for the ignition switch , should be cheap , and (sorry) but thats what normally would go out and cause these same problems on alot of fords i have had
 

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Discussion Starter #9
well, I'm gonna replace the ignition switch this weekend, what the heck, everything else is brand new, may as well do that too. If I find the ignition switch to be at fault, do I laugh or cry? Probably laugh.

I'll be back.
 

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just , take it for what it is (a learning experience) and look at it this way........you shouldnt have to worry about the igntion system for quite some time
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah LOL, well, that's what I'm hoping for anyway. I figure, the parts are cheap and I want to get the beast running, I had already bought the cap, rotor and plugs and wires, simply to update the maintenance on the truck, so that I knew what/when it was done, that was going to be done anyway, so, I also, figure, I already have some of the parts on hand, so, the rest should not matter at this point.

I still want to know what that big black box mounted to the drivers fender well is for. It's actually mounted inside of the fender well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well, we have 12 volts to both sides of the ignition coil, but, no voltage at all to either side of the resistor, with it keyed and not keyed, so, we're gonna replace the ignition switch tomorrow, if I can figure out where the original one is... any idea where it's located? I have been an up-side-down and backwards contoursionist under the dash I do not see it anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, here's another update.

I changed the distributor cap, rotor, and all wires today. Then reinstalled a new resistor, since I broke the other one by overtightning the first new one.

I still have no voltage to the resister on either side. I do have voltage to both sides of the coil. I can hear the relay click, just before you attempt to start the truck, so, there's voltage going there.

So, with all that said, I have completely changed every single electrical part except the ignition switch itself.

All I need now is someone who knows something about the ignition switch location and installation in this 1986 d100 yard ornament. From what I can tell, the ignition is mounted inside the column and not behind the dash. The switch I have is a NAPA Part# KS6613, and I'm not real confident at this time, that they gave me the right switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I did find out that NAPA gave me the wrong ignition switch. The KS6613 is for tilt-steering D150 models. NO WONDER I couldn't find the ignition switch under the dash. I knew from the start something was not right. Anyway, I'm off to Advance or Auto Zone to get the right part, and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, I wanna revisit the issue of having voltage on both sides of the ignition coil, Is this a normal thing?

I assumed that the test light should not light up on the neg side of the coil unless the engine is running. I have 12v lighting on both sides of the coil when the key is out of the ignition...



Tomorrow I am going to by pass the original wiring and run the + side of the coil directly to the battery and run the - side of the coil to another ground point and see what happens. I feel like I need to bypass the original wireing harness to test this issue.
 

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i am drawing a blank right now , and i hope that you ghet the right switch
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah I got the right switch, I can make the vehicle starting positions operate without having the switch installed in the column. I have a short somewhere related to the coil, so I am going to try bypassing the coil hardness and go straight to the battery and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK, here's what my finding is for the day. (New Year, Same Crap) I have 12V from the coil to the distributor, but, I can not get a 12V reading from the distributor through either side of the 2-wire plug, and no spark to any of the the plugs.

Does this mean that the distributor is bad at the module inside?



My knowledge / Theory:

If the voltage is going through the coil to the distributor, then the voltage should pass through the distributor to the spark plugs to make fire and start the truck. It is that simple right?



I am using a test light and an ohm meter for these tests, and this is a non-vacuum advance distributor.


Also, I would like to know, this truck does not require a vacuum advance distributor, the original is a non-vacuum, but, my BIL replaced the distributor with a vacuum advance one, and I have people telling me it does not matter and people telling me it may make a difference, so, what do you all think?

Regardless, I am going to be getting the new distributor without vacuum advance tomorrow and install it, as it was from the factory. But, I also would like to know how I can check a distributor to see if it's good or not.

More updates to follow...
 

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The 'black box' behind the battery on the inner fender is the electronic spark control computer. It's function is to advance the ignition timing. Your distributor has no centrifugal or vacuum advance mechanisms, it's all controlled by the 'black box'.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
THANK YOU!

I have been waiting for someone to reply to this post and tell me what that box is. So, now, I have to assume that since I do not have any spark beyond the distributor to the spark plugs, the problem lies in that mysterious black box?

The only thing inside of this distributor is a 2-wire magnetic pickup thing. No Vacuum or points, just the pickup. I tested those two wires and had no 12V reading from either one of them with the key on, and also with the key to start, so, I guess the issue is gonna be the Black Box? Does this black box control what happens after the distributor? If so, then I guess the 2 wires from the distributor go to the black box?

I may sound like a total idiot here, and I have no problems with that, but, I want to know / learn, so, please, help me out.

Here's my distributor:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=303850&PartType=218&PTSet=A
 

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