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Discussion Starter #1
If I try to start the truck it will start to turn over then normally I give it a half pump of gas and we’re good but lately once I get off the starter it won’t run. Any ideas? Also before this was happening it would run well until it got to ot then die. I asked a friend and he said it was probably a float stuck in the carb and it’s so cold out I haven’t gotten to working on that. Would that be responsible for this?
 

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What type of carb and motor? 318 and Carter BBD?
 

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I've never setup a Holler so I can't help there but if the float is stuck closed its feasible.

May wanna make sure you have spark as a starting point. I think that's how Id kick it off.
 

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On your ignition seiych there is power to the ignition while cranking. This power bypasses the ballist resitor so the coil gets a full 12 volts to help during starting. Once yourelease the key and it returns to thr run position it then sends power to the coil through the ballist resitor, this cuts back the voltage so the coil runs cooler and lasts longer. Check the voltage at the coil during cranking and in the run position. If the voltage is much less at the coil in the run position. check the voltage at both sides of the balluist resitor. On supply side it should be near battery voltage, on the coil side it should be about half the voltage.
If you get no voltage on the coil side the resitor is bad.
If you get no voltage on the supply side, check back at the ingintion switch.
Leo
 

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If I try to start the truck it will start to turn over then normally I give it a half pump of gas and we’re good but lately once I get off the starter it won’t run. Any ideas? Also before this was happening it would run well until it got to ot then die. I asked a friend and he said it was probably a float stuck in the carb and it’s so cold out I haven’t gotten to working on that. Would that be responsible for this?
ya i remember a holley that gave me troubles and it turned out to be the spark advance wasen't right, id start there as well
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ya i remember a holley that gave me troubles and it turned out to be the spark advance wasen't right, id start there as well
Ok thx i just pulled the carb last night and i"m cleaning it, Ill check spark when i get home and see what i can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On your ignition seiych there is power to the ignition while cranking. This power bypasses the ballist resitor so the coil gets a full 12 volts to help during starting. Once yourelease the key and it returns to thr run position it then sends power to the coil through the ballist resitor, this cuts back the voltage so the coil runs cooler and lasts longer. Check the voltage at the coil during cranking and in the run position. If the voltage is much less at the coil in the run position. check the voltage at both sides of the balluist resitor. On supply side it should be near battery voltage, on the coil side it should be about half the voltage.
If you get no voltage on the coil side the resitor is bad.
If you get no voltage on the supply side, check back at the ingintion switch.
Leo
im going to guess this is the same on my truck but the wiring is different because to start it i turn they key to the run position flip the fuel pump switch and the push a little button that works the starter (A previous owner did this). So how would i check that because the key is always in the run position. The key and starter button are on different sides of the steering column so I don't think its on the same wiring at least past the firewall. Any help is accepted.
 

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If a PO has been in there modifing the wiring, that may be part of the problem. I might start by checking down there and see what they did. I would assume for some reason turning the key wouldn't crank the satarter. Usually this is because the switch itself needs adjusting. It's not hard to do and is covered in the repair manual. Perhaps the PO didn't have a manual or coukln't go to the library and look in one. They kight have figuere it was easier to cobble up something than do it right.
The switch is mounted down under the dash on the column. A rod runs down to the switch. The switch slides up and down the column to adjust it.
One easy thing to try would be to run a jumper from the vattery positive to the power side of the coil. This would make it hot all the time so hook it up and immeatley start the engine. It the coil and everything else is working it should run. no matter where the key is. If it runs ok then you know the preoblem is between the coil and the switch or in the switch itself.
Leo
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If a PO has been in there modifing the wiring, that may be part of the problem. I might start by checking down there and see what they did. I would assume for some reason turning the key wouldn't crank the satarter. Usually this is because the switch itself needs adjusting. It's not hard to do and is covered in the repair manual. Perhaps the PO didn't have a manual or coukln't go to the library and look in one. They kight have figuere it was easier to cobble up something than do it right.
The switch is mounted down under the dash on the column. A rod runs down to the switch. The switch slides up and down the column to adjust it.
One easy thing to try would be to run a jumper from the vattery positive to the power side of the coil. This would make it hot all the time so hook it up and immeatley start the engine. It the coil and everything else is working it should run. no matter where the key is. If it runs ok then you know the preoblem is between the coil and the switch or in the switch itself.
Leo
Thanks I’ll check that next just cleaned the carb and checked for spark (was told earlier to do that) and everything spark wise looks good
 
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