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Admin - David Mack
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That is correct! You can get Universal sensors or Direct Fit Plug/Play.
The Universal sensors are a PITA because you have deal with the wiring. The P-n-P is a far better choice. The hardest part is getting your hands up in there.

:imo
 

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Bigg Rigg
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When you were looking at the O2 sensor was it right after you started your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I've checked the voltages in all different environments: off, just started, warmed up but idling, driving city, driving highway, etc.
The two downstream sensors never changed voltages.
 

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0.2 volts is telling the computer its lean. So if its getting 5.5mpg and reporting lean then something is wrong with the wiring or sensor.

Unplug the sensor and check for a short using a voltmeter set to resistance. I don't know exactly about the ram's wiring, but usually the two heater wires are larger and the two sensor wires are smaller. If there is 0 resistance between the two sensor wires then you've got a short.
 

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Good catch on the 02 Sensor.

I remember reading somewhere they you need to use a OEM one or a GOOD known qauility one when replacing them. Truth to that?

Someone also said you should reset your computer after that.


I am seeing some low numbers from my tank so far. I may replace my plugs and O2 Sensors here very shortly.

I remember I couldn't go more than 30 mph. Mud caked on the wheel in one spot. Took it off to wash it and found this..
 

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wow
 

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Good catch on the 02 Sensor.

I remember reading somewhere they you need to use a OEM one or a GOOD known qauility one when replacing them. Truth to that?

Someone also said you should reset your computer after that.


I am seeing some low numbers from my tank so far. I may replace my plugs and O2 Sensors here very shortly.

I remember I couldn't go more than 30 mph. Mud caked on the wheel in one spot. Took it off to wash it and found this..
Not sure if you need OE sensors from dodge but people have reported issues with different brands of O2 sensors. Places like autozone and oreillys typically sell more than one brand. If you are looking to replace them I would see what brands they do have and do some searchs on here for those brand names to see if they are the ones with the problems.
 

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BuRnIn MeTaL MoPaR
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ntk is the best o2 sensor next to oem...bosch is GARBAGE!!!
just like spark plugs NGK are the best..and bosch,champion,E3,splitfire and all them SUCK...allways use ngk/ntk in everything you wont be sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #33
0.2 volts is telling the computer its lean. So if its getting 5.5mpg and reporting lean then something is wrong with the wiring or sensor.

Unplug the sensor and check for a short using a voltmeter set to resistance. I don't know exactly about the ram's wiring, but usually the two heater wires are larger and the two sensor wires are smaller. If there is 0 resistance between the two sensor wires then you've got a short.
Thanks a lot for that tech info! I'll unplug the sensors and check the resistance. My only problem is that the voltage reading of the downstream sensors is NEGATIVE..
Although, I read that the downstream only monitor catalytic converter operation and have NO input on fuel/engine performance?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
ntk is the best o2 sensor next to oem...bosch is GARBAGE!!!
just like spark plugs NGK are the best..and bosch,champion,E3,splitfire and all them SUCK...allways use ngk/ntk in everything you wont be sorry
Uh-oh.. I bought Bosch sensors. I guess I'll call the stealership tomorrow and check pricing on OEM.
 

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I've heard that Bosch and the Rams have problems.

Champion 520 plug seems to work the best in the Rams. With a Honda name I can see why you think NGK is the best.
 

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Although, I read that the downstream only monitor catalytic converter operation and have NO input on fuel/engine performance?
we have a winner. This is 100% correct. You can install 1,000,000 rear O2 sensors and it will never fix a thing for fuel economy. They are FIR CAT EFFENCY ONLY!!!!!!!!

I have a really simple solution to eliminate the rear O2 sensors as sn issue. Use your diablo and TURN THEM OFF you will fond no change if fuel economy. Start your search with the front sensors. Read them via diablo as well as your short term and long term fuel trims. And see how they look. If they are adding a bunch of fuel, the O2 sensor could be shot. Next pull the front sensor blast them clean with break cleaner allow them to dry really well reinstall and compare toprevious readings if no change replace them both. If there is a change they are probably fine. And start your search elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
we have a winner. This is 100% correct. You can install 1,000,000 rear O2 sensors and it will never fix a thing for fuel economy. They are FIR CAT EFFENCY ONLY!!!!!!!!

I have a really simple solution to eliminate the rear O2 sensors as sn issue. Use your diablo and TURN THEM OFF you will fond no change if fuel economy. Start your search with the front sensors. Read them via diablo as well as your short term and long term fuel trims. And see how they look. If they are adding a bunch of fuel, the O2 sensor could be shot. Next pull the front sensor blast them clean with break cleaner allow them to dry really well reinstall and compare toprevious readings if no change replace them both. If there is a change they are probably fine. And start your search elsewhere.
Thanks for confirming the rear o2s thing. I'm still going to check the resistance to see if I have a short tomorrow, when I read the fuel trims. The voltages for my upstream O2S's read right around their posted goal voltages so I don't guess they're messed up.

The negative voltage on the rear O2S's is still throwing me for a loop.

Unfortunately, Diablo took away the 'Rear O2 Sensor Delete' function because of BS emission stuff, so unless someone has a custom tune I can DL - I'm SOL.
 

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Admin - David Mack
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Not to go off-topic and I'll start a new thread if you want me to here, OK? What about the fuel injectors or MAP? I changed my MAP and got about one MPG back but I don't want to touch the injectors without knowing if there's a way to test them. It was easy back in day because the fuel to the injectors were soft. I could pull the injectors to the side, turn on the key, and look for a fine fuel mist. Not the smartest way but it worked great for finding the bad ones.

:dunno:
 

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Not to go off-topic and I'll start a new thread if you want me to here, OK? What about the fuel injectors or MAP? I changed my MAP and got about one MPG back but I don't want to touch the injectors without knowing if there's a way to test them. It was easy back in day because the fuel to the injectors were soft. I could pull the injectors to the side, turn on the key, and look for a fine fuel mist. Not the smartest way but it worked great for finding the bad ones.

:dunno:
Ask around local, and find a fuel injector shop. They will be a le to handle it for ya. But honestly read your plugs. If an injector if stuck open it will be black. You would know it if one faile. Wanna find out what happens? Unplug one and go for a drive.
 
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