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Discussion Starter #1
ok im back,
yeah me and this ol beast are getting to know each other a little better.
my main concern now is the passenger headlight
the original burnt out on low but high still worked, had the old metal fixature
bought a new Sylvania 6024( the parts guy said it was the same as the 6014)
It didn't make it 7 miles and literally blew up inside
i mean the glass fixture inside was broke and white stuff all over the inside of the lens.
Auto zone replaced it.
the next head light lasted 7 days and then the high beam went out as i clicked them on going home at nite.
had to go to the manager about this one. i was sure that it was a Chinese manufacturing problem and he thought there might be a short.
he came out to the parking lot with his voltage tester and showed me that the passenger side was putting only about 11.8-12.1 volts or so about 3-6 points less than the driver side.
then he fiddled with the wires and found a wore spot in the insulation where the wire was draped over the radiator bracket
i felt like a dummy and immediately taped it up real nice even though he couldn't get any reading on the worn spot
he ended up replacing the light cuz he couldnt' really prove anything and im a good customer and bought some other stuff (whatever(
now the plot thickens
im going home last night and click on the brights and flash, there it was....gone. same side(passenger) high beam out, low still works.
beat on it for a minute, no avail.
its out.
i'm afraid to bring it back. he;s a good guy but i still think it might be faulty manufacturing
i googled Sylvania and found a couple of class action lawsuits about false advertising and labeling but nothing really on faulty headlights
what to do
hellllllp!............anybody?
:huh:
 

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Half a volt drop is not really significant and could be attributed to corrosion in the wiring, loose connections or any number of things causing an increase in resistance. With the headlights turned off and/or the battery disconnected, check for resistance between the plug and ground. Any reading at all will indicate a short to ground. The lower the resistance the worse the ground is (ie: 5000 ohm is slight ground or weak insulation, 0.00 ohm is direct contact of bare wire to ground).

You could also go to a different brand of bulb and see if there is a difference. That would eliminate the possibility of a defective batch from Sylvania.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok, so the question really is, would a partial short or a low voltage surge(give or take half a volt) be enough to blow the bulb?
I mean, dang, give me a flicker or dim moment or something, but are they really that fragile now days?
the one that went out had 77 on it and had a metal fixture in side.
don't make em like they used to huh?
 

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I wouldn't think that low voltage (like from a partial ground) would blow the bulb. If anything, I would think it would just be dimmer than the other, but I don't really know anything about modern (or even old for that matter) light bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i went to a wagoner and haven't blown it yet. finally invested in a voltage meter and found out that at a rpm of 3500 or more i was getting 18 volts at the battery. put a new voltage regulator on but no change. i was going home gravel roads so as not to over volt and blow the wagoner bulb. then the silly thing started not charging. i don't know whats going on but its time to change over the the delco remy 1 wire. still haven't blown the wagoner bulb. today i check the voltage at 13.5v go figure.
 
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