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Discussion Starter #1
I was browsing through here a while back and came across a thread on filling and cutting the kegger, it was Dodgepickup who had started the thread. And I have no experience with epoxies well except JB weld, and epoxy primer? LOL! I am a welder by trade so I figured free horses and a spare intake to use what the hay! I still have some finish sanding to do on the inside of the intake, and runners but it looks pretty good. I thank you Dodgepickup for the help and answering questions about the runner lengths and heights side to side. I hope it runs as good as it looks, I still have stock tune and injectors, but CAI, headers, 3" cat and Magna flow 3" in and 2- 2 1/2 out before the rear tire, and a 5 speed manual, with 4:11 rears. So If I don't loose any bottom end and gain some mid to upper range I'll be content! LOL Injectors will be next just have to find out what works corvette 00-01 not sure if you need a pigtail conn. or not? We shall see? ;)

1st is1 runner cut with the sawsall
2nd is stock intake before
3rd,4th is 1 side cut ( notice the single blade cutter in the air drill, WOW those little Biatches are expenseive!) LOL
5th is the stock injector holes, crappy pics!
6th is hogged out
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry more pics

7th is the pile of aluminum dust when I finished. LOL
8th is the 3 cutters I used, spend the money on the nitrate coating(gold color) they last forever!
9,10,and 11 are after tig welding the 4 plates in, forgot to take pics of the plates sorry?
12,13,14, and 15 are final sanding and blending still finishing here and there?
Thanks again Dodgepickup for the tips and write up! :worthy:
I could have went to the bottom of the runner but chose not to we"ll see if it works? Might still cut the TB divider not sure yet?
 

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look's great , nice weld's , glad my junk helped someone....will pick up a really nice kick at about 2500 or alittle higher , you didnt fill as much(up to runners) just going by my tach and ass dyno....when's the install ? going with a aluminum plenum plate ? i'd really like to learn tig....look's really good , keep the update's-n-porn coming

edit......is pic 6 finished a rough in ?
edit#2lol....if your injectors are red then you will need adaptors to run the vette injectors

can you do me a favor....measure the cross section of the runner after you cut it
 

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Black Sunshine!
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looks great but hope you didnt warp it
 

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You'll love the upper end power but it doesn't do much for the bottom end. The actual dyno sheets read a minimal gain from such a modification.
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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That is totally sweet, I want a tig.
 

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did you use a high freq. welder or just a standard tig i mostly do stainless work never tried to do alum.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry been up the camp for the weekend! Yes I have a hues plt. on the truck now, so I'll swap it out onto this one. I only needed to run about 125 amps on this it welded real nice. When I finished I blocked off the TB holes and filled it with 860 sub-arc flux.(similair to sand and let it cool over-night). Here is a couple pics but it's hard to see I know? Next to getting a machine shop to set it up and check it. I didn't see any reason and if it is it is .000's! But when it goes on I 'll post. But I don't forsee any trouble. Pic 6 is still rough, every pic is still rough in. The sanding bits are the next step. Are you talking the over all measurement of the runner opening or the amount I cut off the runner? Cause The pieces are already beening recycled into a honda as we speak! I measured each one from the plenum surface down to the runner opening. Tried to keep them as close as possible! I finished at 3" from the plenum surface, and 3-1/4" to the plates. Note some of my runners were not square to the plates when I finshed. I squared the bottoms of the runners parallel to the plates with the sanding porting bits. Pyssed upper end would be great, we'll see and I'll post the ass dyno? LOL Tkirk I used a high freq. Square Wave Lincoln tig, on continous,and A/C, with green (pure tungsten). I would love to have that at home! It's nice cause it has the 4-step feature 1 click of the button and it stays on, 1 more click and it fades out. Kinda like trigger lock on migs! It's a pain with mine at home hold the button walk the cup and feed the rod? I'm almost dizzy typing all that LMAO! Sorry the pics aren't that great but you get the point? If this works good I will do the other one on the truck and and maybe try a little closer to the runners not sure yet only a 1/4" more might not make any diff.? Might sell it don't know? Thanks guys I'lll post after install. Later all. ;)
 

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work in progress
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thanks for the info we have a high freq. lincoln at work we never use anymore so im trying to work out a deal to buy it (it screws up our computers) then ill just need to find someone to show me how to weld alum. with it
 

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measurement of the runner opening

yes...see if the plenum pan wobble's when set in place ?
 

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Black Sunshine!
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Very well done!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Measuring from the bottom of the runner to were the divider between the two meets the side wall is a real light 3"s. Wow I held the measurement 3" from the plenum surface? That kinda "freaky" how that worked out the same? I did try the plenum pan off of that same intake and seems good, so that's a good sign! I know it took a couple of hours to cool down, filled to the brim that flux really holds the heat well.But I would like to try the aluminum plate off my motor, this intake and motor saw alot of overheating in her D before being yanked? Dodgepickup now you got me worried? I don't have any scrap aluminum that big to try, Dad said a piece of plate glass like how we used to check pushrods might work laid flat? Now I can't wait to try the plenum pan. Ps thanks dodgerider if it is good and is not warped! LOL :eek: I'll have to yank the other to be sure I guess?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I forgot her block was in the shed with the heads still on it! I did a mock up and torqued it down and looks GOOD! Even setting in place loose looks nice and tight? Mind you there all old gaskets but that makes me feel better! Now it still could leak, but I'll have to wait to try it on the truck. Thanks guys for all the tips so far looks good? PS did you guys use RTV on your pans, cause Hues said NO RTV with their gasket? I used super high tack gasket dressing and seems to be working. I'm curious to see what it looks like in there? Some of you put divets in between the bolt holes to hold the RTV, and that's what I'm going to try this time? Sorry I'll quit rambling! LOL :rck:
 

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my bad....here's a pic of what i need....red and green lines measured...like to compare the opening to stock....larger runner opening(cross section) help's top end....we cut at an angle which open's it up larger along with shortening...a measurement would/wouldnt confirm this...i like to plug in some #'s to find peak torque....

i dont think its warped....be carefull with the aluminum plate....there not all ways flat...ive seen the hughes kit....it come with a oem metal only plenum gasket....i dont like it....IMAO i like the fel-pro....its metal rubber coated with printoseal....i used ultra black rtv per instructions(run bead on both side , finger tight all bolts let cure for 1 hour and torque to spec)....yes punching some holes gives the rtv something to bite to....it work's great
 

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slambony- can you elaborate on this flux you used, I misunderstood what you used it for in your original post. It was used to slow cooling correct? What is it and do you have pics of when you used it?
 

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Bridal Veil Falls
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thanks for the info we have a high freq. lincoln at work we never use anymore so im trying to work out a deal to buy it (it screws up our computers) then ill just need to find someone to show me how to weld alum. with it
The unit isn't grounded correctly, if you drive and earth grounding rod right next to it and tie the ground from the unit to the ground rod it will stop messing with the computers.

You may not want to tell them that so you can take it home, but unless you have the correct power at home you won't be able to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks DODGEPICKUP the pics helped, I actually learned something today!LOL!! I I always thought that was just the heighth of the runners. The total is 3-29/32" the runners are a heavy 2-29/32nds, and widths are RCH over 1". What did yours measure out too?
Harrison_Berger here you go. No pre-heat on the intake,by the time the plates are tacked in it's fairly warm. I used the carbide bits to clean everywhere the weld was going and , then cleaned with brake kleen. I welded the vertical plates in first, with everthing fit-up and tacked. Then welded the plates in under the runners. Then while it is still hot, I taped the TB holes off with masking tape. Then I filled the entire intake with the sub-merged arc flux (860). Inside the runners, and entire plenum space right up to the plenum surface. We build pressure vessels from 3'to12' diameter and weld the outside seams with the sub-arc(sub-merged arc). The 860 is just the flux for the welder. U don't need a weld hood to run it, (unless the hopper cloggs up, then it looks like a giant sparkler!), the flux covers the arc up hence sub-merged arc. I'll get some pics to post. I agree with OldTomCat either the machine or the building ground is messed up. We got remote control crane boxes and the stinking plazma cutters would shut the cranes down from the high freq. not cool with a 20,000lb tank on the crane moving! :hide: Sorry for another long one but, but thanks guys! :rck:
 

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I know what submerged arc is, but never have never done it, I never would have thought to use the flux to prevent cooling in other applications. Is there something special about the flux that makes it especially good for controlling the cooling? Would a media with a similar consistency(sand, cat litter, etc.) get the job done for someone that has no other use for the flux?
 
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