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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #1
so i have a jr shift kit and it seems to be acting up.
i have a late 2-3 shift and a slip or flare up when it shifts.
1-2 shift is around 1800 regular take off and 2-3 is around 2600
the 2-3 also slips more or less depending how hard into the throttle you are.
i would like to get a more aggressive shift kit to replace this one but i would also like to make sure that im going to fix this issue before i go spend the money on a new kit and i still have a slip in third

with a pressure gauge on the trans im getting around 75psi at 1000rpm. it doesnt seem to flare up between shifts. just moves up or down according to rpm
this is a fresh transmission and the bands have been checked and rechecked.
is there a valve that could be sticking a little or something obvious to look for?
the valve body was swapped over from my last trans. nothing but issues with the trans builder. it had the same issue in the old transmission as well.
 

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DOGOS RULE!
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Stock throttle body?
 

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DOGOS RULE!
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Haha sorry valve body I ment.
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #4
yeah stock valve body with the shift kit.
no clue why i posted this in sport truck....but thanks for the reply lol
 

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An FSM to follow circuits involved, and further pressure testing would be about all you've got for now (unless rebuilder hopefully decides to help). ... Good luck (I was in similar ish situation with trans)
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #6
pressure test seems to be fine. everything checks out. transgo says everything is fine and theres no reason for a flare up. so im confused. i cant continue to run it with a slip or im going to eat up this trans in no time. i might take some of the valves out and check seals and just make sure everything is good in the valve body.
it didnt slip before the shift kit was put in. so it may have been something i did. but either way i would like it fixed before i continue beating on it lol
 

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R.I.P Big Blue
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Whats peak line pressure? 75 is super low, so hopefully its higher than that under throttle. If not, you may need to adjust tv cable, or physically adjust pressure at the valve body. Or the filter is plugged, seal leaking, etc.....
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #8
its about 20-25 psi above spec at wide open throttle. pretty much all pressure specs check out correctly. i was thinking on adjusting the throttle screw a turn or two and also upping my line pressure possibly one turn when i go to put it back in after inspecting valves
 

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R.I.P Big Blue
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What are you using for "spec"? Once you add power, stock line pressure just doesn't cut it. Is the valve body fresh also? I wonder if a hole wasn't drilled that was needed to increase pressure/fill speed for the shift. If that was even needed for that kit. I can't remember now it's been so long. You running better servos? Stock lever ratio? Does it act up both cold and warm?
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #10
same cold and warm stock lever ratio.
im running new oem servos and borg warner gov pressure.
http://www.atraonline.com/manuals/seminars/PDF Manuals/2000/2000_154.pdf
this is what i used to check my pressures. obviously im going to be higher with a shift kit and upped pressures but i basically used this as a guide to know where my levels are at and in relevance to these which one of mine could be low or high.
 

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R.I.P Big Blue
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lol that chart looks nothing like I'm used to. All I can say is I used to shoot for 180-200 all the time in my last vb, and now it's a constant pressure vb, but not sure how high.

I would try to up the pressure some if it's only slipping under real power. If it's slipping while just cruising under normal conditions and throttle, then it's something else. How much torque are you putting through it now? Still stock clutches and steels?
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #12
Only slipping half throttle or more and just on the 2-3 shift. if I lift and wait for it to shift it's a solid pull through the gear. So I don't understand. Supposedly it's aband issue but I can't see it being I've adjusted it to spec and to what transgo said all 3 times I've been in there.
I'll up the pressure another turn and I'm going to adjust the screw in front of that that applies low throttle shift. Maybe I can loosen my tv cable a bit as well.
 

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R.I.P Big Blue
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If it's good to go once its engaged, then my mind says its taking too long to build pressure enough to engage that solenoid, and actually engage the band. I would up the pressure a couple turns on the tv screw, and maybe a little on the pressure screw. And tighten the band a hair. Thats just me though. I know on mine, I tighten the band adjustment, but instead of backing out 2 1/2 turns or whatever it says, I only back it out like 1.5-2. Allows for a little harsher shift/engagment, and less slippage. I don't know exactly why it works like that, but it does lol. But if you go too tight, it will drag and prematurely wear out the bands and drums. Just a matter of preference, but worth a shot for a couple miles if you don't mind dropping the pan a hundred times.

I'd keep trying to get your trans builder guy to stop being a douche and answer you though.
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #14
Answering me isn't the problem. Being knowledgeable is the problem lol.
He wants to build me a whole new transmission and valve body. Kinda leery on letting him do anything for me. Or if he is going to cheap on and it won't hold the power like this one would.
I'm no strange. To dropping the pan. And I did weld a drain plug into the pan so it's Mich much cleaner to drop the pan then usual.
I was told to adjust the rear 2 turns. I haven't heard 2.5 .Even forums are saying 2.75 for the front and 2 for the rear. I'll recheck Tomorrow. Might tighten it down a touch but I'll see when I get in there.
 

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R.I.P Big Blue
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Answering me isn't the problem. Being knowledgeable is the problem lol.
He wants to build me a whole new transmission and valve body. Kinda leery on letting him do anything for me. Or if he is going to cheap on and it won't hold the power like this one would.
I'm no strange. To dropping the pan. And I did weld a drain plug into the pan so it's Mich much cleaner to drop the pan then usual.
I was told to adjust the rear 2 turns. I haven't heard 2.5 .Even forums are saying 2.75 for the front and 2 for the rear. I'll recheck Tomorrow. Might tighten it down a touch but I'll see when I get in there.
Ok, I was thinking of the front. It's been a while since I touched mine.

I'd trust these guys before anyone. the 2nd poster builds all his own from scratch, including his own machining. He's got over 3500 passes at 1500ft/lbs+ on these transmissions. This is regarding a 47re/h, but they're all the same.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108018


Random stuff you might be able to pull info from

and adjustments for each model year: These were borrowed from the TDR page.

1994
Front Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns
Rear Band
32/42RH - Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
36/37/46/47RH - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
1995
Front Band
42RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
47RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
Rear Band
42RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
47RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
1996
Front Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
Rear Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
1997 [From: "Paul R. Haller" To: DiRT]
Front Band
46RE - tighten screw to 8N.m or 72 inch pounds, back off 2 7/8 turns
47RE - tighten screw to 8N.m or 72 inch pounds, , back off 1 7/8 turns
Rear band
46RE - tighten screw to 8N.m or 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
47RE - tighten screw to 8N.m or 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
The adjustment screw inside the case is a square head bolt. You will need a special 1/4 square head socket to fit your torque wrench.
1998 unknown
1999
Front Band
47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns
42 RE - The final adjustment for the front band has been changed to:
back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
Rear Band
47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4" hex driver, the front band requires a T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx driver
2000-2001
Front Band
42RE - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
44RE - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
46RE - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
47RE - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
From Bill Konolday's 47RE notes: I usually go a little looser than factory specs on this front band - backing off the adjustment screw 2 or 2 1/4 turns. Depending on the circumstances I have backed off the band up to 2 1/2 turns.
Rear Band
42RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
44RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
46RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turn

https://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/47RH-RE Band Adjustment v1.0.pdf

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/196976-47re-band-adjustment.html
 

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R.I.P Big Blue
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I guess I was remembering backwards, in my earlier post lol. That long list of trans and their adjustments was what I used last time. Bill Kondolay was one of the original diesel trans builders back in the day. He also did my first valvebody build, awesome guy.
 

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I have print version of 98 FSM: the "Clutch and Band application chart" says in D/3rd no bands are engaged, only 4 clutches;---
---2 in the trans (frt clutch and rear clutch)
---2 in the OD unit (direct clutch and overrunning clutch)

... Will need 2 gauges for clutch circuits test (I can type out this test procedure if you want); if you can find FSM or better would be awesome, shows circuits and valving etc involved with each gear.

... FSM says to adj frt band (2/3 kickdown band); from loose position---
--- tighten screw to 72 inch lbs
--- then back off screw 2-7/8 turns
--- tighten locknut to 30 foot lbs
... As mike alluded to earlier, if this 2/3 band is a hair tighter; 2/3 band will then release a bit later when shifting out of 2nd, shortening the time interval till 3rd clutches grab.

... I'm guessing problem may be 2-3 shift valve, 2-3 shuttle valve, or maybe even 3-4 timing valve; but that's just my novice opinion/guess (lol, I couldn't even figure out what was wrong with my own trans). ... Even if you have to "beg, borrow, or steal", score an FSM, or a better trans/shop manual if you can.
 

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audio is my game
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Discussion Starter #19
ok so the 2-3 is the front band? i thought the rear was the one that was supposed to be adjusted a tad tighter?
 

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ok so the 2-3 is the front band? i thought the rear was the one that was supposed to be adjusted a tad tighter?
Yup, 2-3 band is the frt band (kickdown band); adjuster is on outside of case.
... Rear band is Low-Reverse band; adjuster is inside pan.

... You will find a FSM or trans manual invaluable; beg/borrow/steal or trade a pair of shocks like mike did, lol; you'll never regret it
 
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