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Discussion Starter #1
Been a while since i've been on here, but recently decided to do a top end rebuild of my 408.

Here's what I went with:
F&B 2x52x55 throttle body
Hughes F1 AirGap
Ford Racing 24# Fuel injectors (HemiFever recommended, but seem small)
Hughes MAGNUM INDY "X" HEADS W/ 2.02" STAINLESS (HUG20300C)
Hughes PREMIUM MAG RKR KIT SHAFT MOUNT/IRON HDS (HUG1555)
Hughes Spring Kit (HUG1110VSK-M)
Hughes SB HYD RLR CAM 226/230 (HUGSER2630ALN-10)
Scat forged crank
Scat forged I-Beam rods
JE forged aluminum pistons (220156)
Edelbrock Shorty headers with full 3in exhaust

The motor is still in a 98' Ram 2500 5-speed manual with 4.11 gears.
compression is about 10:1

I am however going to need a new tune, I have the SCT 3200 X2 from my first build but was told by Hemifever that it didn't have the capabilities to run this setup...
So my question is given this setup do I need to upgrade to the 3200 X3 (Hemifever Still has a few) or are there other reputable tuners out there to tune our trucks?

Thanks,
Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Correction, I have the SCT 9550 currently not the 3200.

Please let me know what you think, and/or recommend.

Thanks,
Doug
 

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if hemi wount work with you and the 9550 tuner, there are a lot of people in trouble, including me.
try doing a web search for flyinryan. he may have you mail in your sct and send it back to you, before he starts his tunes.
 

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big cam. does that give you bout .60 lift? surprised he would have sold you 1110 springs!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ended up going with Chris at Performance Injection Equipment for the tune. As for the springs, ended up going with the 1129's.

Got it all up and running, but it seems like it has a spark knock under load, so thats the next task to figure out.
 

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what octane are you running?
when tuning mine I had bout 12 dyno runs to get the program right. plus hemi sent me a base line tune to start with high octane. took me a while to get the bugs worked out.
also adjustment on the valvetrain can take minor engine noises out. I cant remember what kinda rockers you got!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Valvetrain is very noisy, but it was expected given the cam. Currently running 91 octane, and the rockers are from Hughes as well (HUG 1550), stainless rockers for Iron headed motors 1:6 ratio. Tuning is still an issue, truck surges/shudders fairly violently under light throttle, stalls out when coasting to a stop, and sounds like it's spark knocking when you load the motor a bit. Trying to chase down that cause is a bit of a pain, my initial thoughts are that cam gear didn't get set 100% right or timing chain needs to be adjusted but I'm not sure.
So playing the waiting game, trying to figure out tuning issues. But if anyone here has thoughts, ideas, or similar issues, i'm all ears.
 

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the timing chain is either not right or it is. unless they didn't index the cam properly. there is no adjustment possible. did u go with a chain tensioner?
it sounds to me like you have a few bugs to work out. that's a new throttle body. right. the idle stop may not be right.
are you running a base line can tune or trying to run the stock tune. you might be running lean or too much spark advance open throttle.
with adjustable rockers I have a LOT of preload on the lifters. no preload will let the lifters stay noisy and bleed down after the engine cools off. what do the rockers look like in the cold position. are they all flat across or do they still telegraph the cam profile cold?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did not go with a cam tensioner, and ran a base start up tune from PIE. Sent him fuel/air numbers and he gave me a baseline tune.

Had the throttle body on the last motor without any issues.

I will have to pull valve covers off to check the rockers, had a local shop put it together and didn't pay attention to it when i finished assembly.

Could it be the cam drive gear? I set that in after the motor was assembled and may have set the slot straight from 12 to 6 (12 being front of the motor) like the old LA motors instead of 11 to 5. But I figured it wouldn't run if it wasn't right.
 

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the cam and crank should be dot to dot 12 to 6. PIE will not recommend a chain tensioner. I do. tensioners are stock equipment on a 6 cylinder to clean up the idle and slack in the chain.
the distributor drive slot is set 11/5. then sync is set on a DRBIII capable scanner.
 

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regardless on the previous motor a throttle body idle stop needs to be adjusted as per unique mechanical and pcm set up.
 

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I HAVENT FOUND A SPEED SHOP YET WHO KNOWS HOW TO SET PRELOAD ON A CHRYSTLER MAGNUM MOTOR WITH ADJUSTABLE ROCKERS!
and this is old spec!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info, i'll hopefully get into it tomorrow, correct the drive gear, and take a look at the rockers. If you think of anything else that might be the culprit let me know.
 

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I have run an engine cold with the valve covers off. watched the rockers oil spit. shut it off and watch for collapse. the lifters should stay visually pumped up and not alleviate pressure. if they bleed down too fast the preload is not enough. this way the rockers will flatten out in minutes. bad news!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, i was an idiot and had the cam gear indexed one tooth off. Truck runs great other than it still wants to stall out under braking to stop but that should be an easy fix with a throttle body adjustment.
Valvetrain looks good, seems to have solid preload all the way around.

You can defiantly tell it's got a cam in it, exhaust note is quite noticeable.

Thanks again Spun for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well...it runs well, trying to track down an oil consumption issue. Never smelled oil, but at first oil change after initial break in she was VERY light on oil. Gotta do a compression check this weekend, if that checks out its on to valve guides...
Chris at PIE got the tune pretty well dialed in. It's a little fat at idle, and leans out a bit after shifts when shes cold. Still trying to figure that one out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Well here are the numbers(PSI):
8: 125____7: 0
6: 125____5: 145
4: 95_____3: 115
2: 95_____1: 115

if memory serves with 10:1 compression, those numbers should be about 145 at sea level... So i'm thinking leakdown test and likely pull the motor again.

Thoughts, ideas, or suggestions?
 
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