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the X is in the muffler/ straight through design. not a flomaster! there is a baffle. all the high pitch rasp is sponged up.
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
Got the exhaust completed. It's loud ....:smile
Cat is gone and have no DTC light on the dash.

2.5 pipe with X-pipe and two Summit Racing single chamber race mufflers

Had the exhaust guy weld flanges to the Pacesetter headers so if I ever have to remove the headers or something I will not have to cut the pipe. He welded them on the inside so not to destroy the coating.
The mufflers aren't welded on either... they are held on my Dynomax exhaust bands.

I did this so in order to change out mufflers for quieter ones without cutting or welding if I so desire.
 

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looks nice! no cats? let me know how well the clamps hold up. I used a complete overlay step down band in stainless, harder to find. much more material involved in the units I chose. and occasionally I do have to adjust for leaks.
my stainless MF muffler has lasted SO long. I want to change my exhaust pipes so bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
looks nice! no cats? let me know how well the clamps hold up. I used a complete overlay step down band in stainless, harder to find. much more material involved in the units I chose. and occasionally I do have to adjust for leaks.
my stainless MF muffler has lasted SO long. I want to change my exhaust pipes so bad.
I'm hanging onto the high flow cat just in case they start pushing emission laws down here.
I've never used these clamps so I might have some issues. These short, light weight mufflers might not wiggle loose has other mufflers.

Go ahead and change the exhaust... you only live once...:wink
 

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moparman505
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Just checking in seeing how you are progressing. As I have discovered more power and torque puts strain on your driveline. Just had to replace rear diff bearings. Biggest cause of bearing failure in corporate (9.25) differentials....engine modifications. Power. So with the transmission and differential now rebuilt I am wondering how my transfer case is doing. Well time will tell.
Also replaced Champions with the NGK plugs ..we'll see how that works out. Probably should have replaced cap and rotor at same time as MSD can be tough on those to...maybe next week.
Been looking at various sites which are suggesting that extended or projected tip plugs should be used in aluminum heads and non projected in iron heads. If you come across anything interesting on that subject post it up.
I did have fun driving to muffler shop with headers open for about ten miles after engine was put in.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Just checking in seeing how you are progressing. As I have discovered more power and torque puts strain on your driveline. Just had to replace rear diff bearings. Biggest cause of bearing failure in corporate (9.25) differentials....engine modifications. Power. So with the transmission and differential now rebuilt I am wondering how my transfer case is doing. Well time will tell.
Also replaced Champions with the NGK plugs ..we'll see how that works out. Probably should have replaced cap and rotor at same time as MSD can be tough on those to...maybe next week.
Been looking at various sites which are suggesting that extended or projected tip plugs should be used in aluminum heads and non projected in iron heads. If you come across anything interesting on that subject post it up.
I did have fun driving to muffler shop with headers open for about ten miles after engine was put in.
I'm glad you brought this up.

Here is the next adventure that will happen to my truck.
Looking into installing a TruTrac differential.

Parts list:
Eaton Detroit Trutrac
Crush Sleeve Eliminator
Motive gear Master kit

Motive Gear 4.56 Ring and Pinion

Thinking about doing the work myself. I've watched some videos on YouTube and think I can do it.
 

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Mullinax, take heart...I replaced the 9.25 open carrier n my beast (96 Ram 1500) for a ltd slip. Wound up having to replace the pinion bearings cause after almost 200K miles (at the time) n lotsa abuse they were shot. So, after watching youtube n reading numerous articles on the subject (I already had most the tools/even made the carrier adjuster tool based on a youtube vid)...I thought, I can do that?!? Rented bearing pullers from the zone n 6 hours later...I glued the diff cover back on n said to myself...self, is that it? Shorely I'm missing something?!? Roughly a year later, she's still working great. It was one of the easiest complex things I've done to 'ol blue.
 

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love my trutrac!
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Mullinax, take heart...I replaced the 9.25 open carrier n my beast (96 Ram 1500) for a ltd slip. Wound up having to replace the pinion bearings cause after almost 200K miles (at the time) n lotsa abuse they were shot. So, after watching youtube n reading numerous articles on the subject (I already had most the tools/even made the carrier adjuster tool based on a youtube vid)...I thought, I can do that?!? Rented bearing pullers from the zone n 6 hours later...I glued the diff cover back on n said to myself...self, is that it? Shorely I'm missing something?!? Roughly a year later, she's still working great. It was one of the easiest complex things I've done to 'ol blue.
I'm going to try and do the work myself.

I bought a SHOP PRESS yesterday.
 

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Hardest part of a gear/diff change is getting the gear contact points correct. You are supposed to use gear marking compound but i have used white lithium grease instead. It's bit harder to see but get's the job done.



 

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I reused the original pinion shim with the new bearings. Popped the carrier in, set the backlash, painted the ring gear n the pattern was perfect the first time. The most difficult thing was tightening that pinion nut. Breaker bar torqued with by jackin' up the end of the BB (saw that one on utube too!). This was the most time consuming part of the rebuild for me, setting the crush bearing/preload. O' course, I bought a rebuilt Trac lok!
 

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You install it yourself or have a shop do it?
had a shop do it.
then promptly blew apart the rear u joint. I don't know if it was the added stress on the drive train or perhaps they needed to be replaced. be careful with the u joint straps on the shaft. check into the torque setting and fallow through properly there. that rear union is a week spot! ;)
 

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waiting on an update! :popcorn:
 

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Diego Serna
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What!!!! Vacations are when you are supposed to get this done, we are dying!! Man this has been one of my favorite threads, your truck is killer.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
What!!!! Vacations are when you are supposed to get this done, we are dying!! Man this has been one of my favorite threads, your truck is killer.
I've been busy....

The old cam was too laid back and thought I could do better. After talking to Ryan:

New custom XFI cam specs: .230/.236 @.50 .577/.572 108LSA

Old cam:112 LSA: Good drivability. Nitrous/Blower. Idle quality and vacuum not as good as a 114 LSA but better than a 110 LSA.

New cam:108 LSA: Aggressive; typically best hp and torque. Moves torque to lower RPM; increases maximum torque; narrows Power band; idle vacuum is reduced; idle quality suffers. Definitely requires tuning. :p


Cam has a noticeable idle to it now and the off idle throttle response is lighting quick. However it definitely needs a tune now. With the old cam 112lsa it wasn't that bad but with the new 108lsa the computer is struggling. Got in contact with Ryan at Flyn Ryan Performance and sent him some money... shouldn't be to much longer now. :D

I still have not got to install the Ford Racing injectors Ryan has recommended because I'm afraid it will run to rich until he starts tuning. These injectors are 39lb compared to 27lb... we'll see.
 

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I see no reason to go bigger with injectors.
 
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