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4.7L Head Gasket issue @168k miles

523 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Buck2001
Looking for your thoughts. No, I do not plan to trade. Why? I am not a fan of the two car payment plan. Unless you have a great deal for me. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

When we were driving this past weekend, I noticed the coolant temp staying a bit warm. Like 204-206. It's really not warm enough for the truck to see that. AND, it seemed to smell a bit like burnt coolant if I didn't know better. After we got home I filled the overflow tank...which was empty. So I figured we were losing coolant. After everything cooled, the tank level had gone down a bit...and I noticed some fluid had leaked onto the ground somewhere at or just after the right front tire, but under the side of the engine. Topped the tank back off, and when I drove the next day, sitting at a light I noticed a little steam coming out the right side of the hood. I thought "that can't be good." So, I figure that head gasket is letting go.

I can replace it myself. But, at that point, I figure I should also replace the other head gasket since I'll already have the intake off and everything else out of the way. Here's the dilemma: what else should I replace? The head gasket kit comes with valve stem seals, so that is in order. Guess I can clean the carbon off the heads even thought they'll be dirty within a month or two.

I don't know how far I should go into the heads. Should I replace the valve springs? The valves? I've had HO cams in it for 10 years, and can tell it floats the valves at 6 grand. I just try to avoid that engine speed. sigh Should I bother with getting the heads checked for straightness? I've got 168,000 miles on this machine. I'm not really worried about resale; since it's a 2007 it doesn't have a lot of resale left anyway. I still use it as a truck I'd say routinely; not daily.

I don't even want to know what a dealer will charge me for head gaskets. Yikes. I can get a head gasket kit and 16 head bolts for $225 I think from Summit. That's probably 1/4 of their price.
Thanks for your inputs.
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I’d think a machine shop is mandatory on aluminum man. You ever heard of a 4.7 HG crapping out alone? I haven’t.
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I’d think a machine shop is mandatory on aluminum man. You ever heard of a 4.7 HG crapping out alone? I haven’t.
Thanks for asking. My truck has run warmer ever since I put the ATI under drive on it. Runs at 199 typically. But I'd seen it hitting 204 a couple times, and that weekend it hit 206, all with mild driving so I thought something was up. I should have mentioned I'm running the clutch fan right now too. To your point, I guess I'll ask around for a machine shop.

I'm not trying to be cheap; just want to get done what needs to be done. And...I do not like recreational maintenance. So, if I should do other things like valve springs while the heads are off, I'll do that too.
No point replacing the valves if they're ok. Your springs on the other hand lol....definitely get the surface checked and decked if necessary. I'd say get your block checked as well (deck surface) if you were pulling it just to ensure a good flat surface. Also if it's running a tad warmer with the pulley & e-fan it might be time to maybe step down a tad on thermostat (if you haven't already).
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I would probably replace the lash adjusters and the whole timing set as well. I got 200k out of the timing chains but should have done them sooner. For sure have the heads checked for cracks and flatness. The springs aren’t that expensive, it you have it down that far, I would do them as well.
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What was the tell on your timing chains? Just noisy at startup? I’m about to roll 200k on my 08, I’ve never opened it up.
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What was the tell on your timing chains? Just noisy at startup? I’m about to roll 200k on my 08, I’ve never opened it up.
I could hear it slapping, my guess is your tensioners are about done.
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Had same coolant issues at 250k on 4.7. Also seemed to be getting into oil, so that's really not good. OEM head gaskets notorious for giving up about 200k, and valve seats sometimes coming loose with Aluminum heads. Had indie shop do valve job, and yes, needed new seats tho all else was fine. Interesting: no ridge in cylinders or much signs of wear. Chain guide thin crispy toast, so replaced with chain; tensioner OK. Head gasket kit most expensive bit @ 375!! Lifters tick a little on start-up, but seem to remember this when brandy new. +6k now and runs great.
At 115k had slight overheating issue. OEM fan clutch failed. Hated how long it took for silicone fluid inside to distribute so that it could disengage and stop the cold start roar. Replaced with a compatible Hayden unit and all worked so much better. Muchquite, earler disengagement, and still working like new.
I
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So, I drove it again after topping off the coolant tank and the radiator. Took a good look when it was warmed up and idling at work. And I noticed that the right valve cover was wet! Which...it shouldn't be with a head gasket leak. Turns out, after some inspection, I discovered that the the two plastic clamps holding the heater hoses near the back end of the engine had broken, and let the heater hoses sag. Just enough so the lower one was rubbing against a stiff wire and...rubbed through the hose. So, it seems I missed that for a while.
Bought ten feet of universal heater hose (5/8") at Autozone, and swapped out the heater hoses and clamps. I did the radiator hoses two years ago; guess I should have done these then also. The tough part was the hoses on the heater core. What a BEAR! I was able to get a scribe around one to loosen it, but the other I had to cut the hose and then run a scribe around it. Also used WD-40 with a little squirt tube to get in the gap where I pushed the scribe. Hoses are changed; I'm happy. That was much less work than a head gasket. I even have enough heater hose left over to plumb a second heater core (to sit somewhere in the engine bay area) so I can use that to cool things down in the summer.
I put a new clutch fan in two or three years ago, so that should be okay. Would rather have the E-fan setup, but I need to get some more cooling in place first.
Oh! Given the failed plastic clamps, I wrapped the hoses with some wire bundle wrap to protect them from the valve cover, and also wrapped the wire bundle at the rear of the engine to keep it from rubbing through. And tied a vacuum line up which was starting to rub.
Thank you all for your inputs, and for the insight on 4.7L longevity. May need to plan something for next summer, or this winter.
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I think I have the 4.7 lifter tick. It’s audible once the coolant hits about 145*. I have a video clip but can’t figure out how to attach it…
I think I have the 4.7 lifter tick. It’s audible once the coolant hits about 145*. I have a video clip but can’t figure out how to attach it…
4.7 doesn’t have lifters.
4.7 doesn’t have lifters.
Google "replace dodge 4.7l lifters."
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They're not lifters. People are just dumb. Lifters ride a cam in order to "lift" pushrods to "lift" valves. 3.7/4.7's have what are called "lash adjusters". They don't ride on the cam.

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Google "replace dodge 4.7l lifters."
Because we should believe everything on the internet. I’d bet a paycheck that I’ve been further into a 4.7 than your YouTube experience. It does not lift anything, it keeps tension on the rocker arm.
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