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318 truck engine barely runs

2K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  jdh564 
#1 ·
maybe somebody here could shed some light on this for me:
1993 Ram 1/2 ton, 4x4, 318, auto, magnum engine, 70600 orig miles, headers, true dual exhaust w/flowmasters
-Truck will not start until you dump some gas into the throttle body, though it will restart if it was just running if yer foot is on the gas pumping it.

-Truck will rarley idle, it will just stall after letting off the pedal.

-when it will idle, it is choppy at best, at rpms low enough to tell the oil pressure dummy light to turn on

-Truck will run kinda ok at higher rpms (2800+), but only in neutral, not in drive

-truck will die as soon as dropped into drive or reverse, unless foot is on the gas about half way

-Truck puffs fairly thick black smoke out both tail pipes almost all the time.

-Throttle body makes fairly loud "sucking noise" that i am not used to hearing

-Truck "smells" and feels hotter than usual after 10 min of running, though temp needle is right where it always is.

-Check engine light is NOT on, NO stored codes

-Problem has been progressivly worse over the last year. used to only do it when hot/humid/raining. now truck is undriveable and off the road

Brand new accel coil, plugs, wires, cap rotor, bought as a set specifically for this truck/engine. Brand new air and fuel filters. Cleaned screen on bottom of fuel pump, sort of dirty, but not too bad. alternator charging at 14.2x volts

I have no idea where to go from here. Throw some ideas at me. Thanks
 
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#3 ·
well there can be so many problems not idling right here are a few thing that are worth a try

o2 sensor located on the exhaust right behind manifold, reads fuels and this could make one idle really shitty

igntion coil not getting good voltage to ure plug rotor distributer which means fuel again

vacumn leak check that, vacumn hoses could make the tb starve for air

iac idle air control motor right behind the tb..pull that and see if the pintle is corroded, sometimes those go bad and might need replacement

cracked distributer or bad rotor button underneath the distributer, the rotor button has a wire leading to ure coil...

do u have any plug wires beside the manifolds? when they get real hott they attend to work poorly

try these and let me know what u find dude, i hope u find out ure problem
 
#4 ·
Carb Cleaner

there is a spot in the carb that gets gummed up easily, mine just did it, wont idle at all at stop signs ect. Sparyed cleaner in it real good, then ran two cans of Sea Foam and it cured it. Not sure if yours is the same but would try that. Good Luck.
 
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