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I just ran a 9.719 in the 1/8th
That Was my only pass.....
 

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Other mods I have incase it helps is: Superchips, JBA shorty headers, cut out the muffler and installed 3'' straight pipe, Airaid MIT, 70mm TB, Powerwire from Airram, new 08 intake, Iridium plugs, that sums it up. I am going to get the truck dyno'd in a couple weeks, just have to find a reputable shop and I will post the numbers with all these mods. I am guessing maybe 215 to the wheels from stock. I dont want tuning, just the numbers...
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Other mods I have incase it helps is: Superchips, JBA shorty headers, cut out the muffler and installed 3'' straight pipe, Airaid MIT, 70mm TB, Powerwire from Airram, new 08 intake, Iridium plugs, that sums it up. I am going to get the truck dyno'd in a couple weeks, just have to find a reputable shop and I will post the numbers with all these mods. I am guessing maybe 215 to the wheels from stock. I dont want tuning, just the numbers...
Do a PCM reset and drive lightly for a couple of days without going WOT. Let the PCM learn your new throttle positions.

Also if you have a HIGH RPM at idle then you need to find out if you have a vacuum leak or not... does it ever come down to 600rpms or does it idle at 1000?

Most likely your PCM is attempting to adjust for the increased air flow. A PCM reset will accelerate this learning curve.

Also, run that 91 octane tune... The POWER WIRE should help keep you save with added fuel at WOT.

BUT PCM RESET and SLOW RELEARN. Put about 10-15 miles on the part throttle relearn before you go WOT.

Keep me posted.
 

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man I cant wait to get this, right after Christmas, I hope to have it:rck:
 

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It's weird, I start the truck up idles fine at 5-600. After driving for a couple minutes when I go to park and put the shift lever in park or nuetral, it jumps to 1000. Only in neutral or park, not drive 1,2,R, only nuetral and park. I dont think a vacuum leak would show itself in just those two lever positions, would it? I used a dollar bill and some baby powder to check for leaks, none found. Maybe I messed up the IACV when installing it into the new TB? I must say it does look badas*. Looks like a performance manifold and just a clean look overall. I will let the gas run down and do the 91 tune with 93 octane. Thanks for all the advice and will keep you posted...
 

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Is the map sensor fully inserted?
 

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Update: now its doing the surging idle while it's in drive as well. At a stop it will shoot to 1k then idle 7-800. Will check that sensor krs thanks for the idea!
 

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No problem. Just pointing that out since our map sensors are a tight fit with the 08 manifold due to our fuel line. Im not sure if you flipped the map sensor upside down to install it? But that would make the sensor sit flush.
 

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It was running good then the park issue, now it idles high at stops. I check the map sensor its in good and I checked for vacuum leaks. I am going to see if I can get it hooked up to a starscan and have a diagnostic done. I already replaced the Idle air control valve 2 years ago under warranty, maybe it's in need of a new one. That would suck if I need a new one every 2 years lol. Or maybe I need to have the truck relearn the new 70mm TB. Thanks for the feedback KRS..
 

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Sure thing..Good luck to you :gr_patrio
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Whats the status on your idle issue? I would like to know what was causing it... (Idle Air Control?)

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
 

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Happy Holidays all! I replaced the IACV with one from a junk yard from a Dodge like mine with 35k miles. It still did it and I was worried about it not being a good part even though it was free. I ended up going to the dealer and paying them for a new one, install and to calibrate the computer. I was worried I would mess up my engine throwing one in w/o calibrating it etc. Well it still does it... I have followed your directions twice to the T Nick and it doesnt help. I am almost certain its not a vacuum leak. It seems it only shows itself when the truck is warm and in Idle or park will it shoot to 1100-1200 RPM. Also when driving, it will idle funny sometimes like stay at 800 instead of dropping to 500 when in drive. It resets and wont do it after I start it up which tells me its cycling and reseting after I turn off and on the truck. I am thinking its electronic like a TPS but I am reading my symptoms arent normal for a bad tps. The voltage read fine when hooked up to the computer but I am leaning towards a new TPS. The dealer said pay them 89.99 to spray an 8.00 can of mopar combustion chamber cleaner in there and there sure it will fix my problem... Yea right!
I took there advice and bought the can but did it myself and whaalaaa same problem lol... If I would have paid 89.99 and I was suckered I would have been pissed then they would tell me to pound sand... Anyways I am thinking I will get a mopar TPS but cant find any info regarding calibrating such a sensitive peice so I dont know if this is a stealership job!

Other then that Nick, with the intake, TB its a new animal. I think that gears should be mandatory because I dont think 3.55 do this mod any justice!!!
 

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Happy Holidays all! I replaced the IACV with one from a junk yard from a Dodge like mine with 35k miles. It still did it and I was worried about it not being a good part even though it was free. I ended up going to the dealer and paying them for a new one, install and to calibrate the computer. I was worried I would mess up my engine throwing one in w/o calibrating it etc. Well it still does it... I have followed your directions twice to the T Nick and it doesnt help. I am almost certain its not a vacuum leak. It seems it only shows itself when the truck is warm and in Idle or park will it shoot to 1100-1200 RPM. Also when driving, it will idle funny sometimes like stay at 800 instead of dropping to 500 when in drive. It resets and wont do it after I start it up which tells me its cycling and reseting after I turn off and on the truck. I am thinking its electronic like a TPS but I am reading my symptoms arent normal for a bad tps. The voltage read fine when hooked up to the computer but I am leaning towards a new TPS. The dealer said pay them 89.99 to spray an 8.00 can of mopar combustion chamber cleaner in there and there sure it will fix my problem... Yea right!
I took there advice and bought the can but did it myself and whaalaaa same problem lol... If I would have paid 89.99 and I was suckered I would have been pissed then they would tell me to pound sand... Anyways I am thinking I will get a mopar TPS but cant find any info regarding calibrating such a sensitive peice so I dont know if this is a stealership job!

Other then that Nick, with the intake, TB its a new animal. I think that gears should be mandatory because I dont think 3.55 do this mod any justice!!!



Mine use to do that to. the pcv hoses that go on at the back of the heads were cracked.
 

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Replaced with new TPS and reset computer same problem...
Will look at the PCV hoses. Where on the manifold are they?
Thanks for any ideas!
If I cant get it fixed soon no other choice then to sell it and get a better vehicle; it's a shame too, its a 2004 with 75k on the odometer!
 

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Replaced with new TPS and reset computer same problem...
Will look at the PCV hoses. Where on the manifold are they?
Thanks for any ideas!
If I cant get it fixed soon no other choice then to sell it and get a better vehicle; it's a shame too, its a 2004 with 75k on the odometer!
There's one on the back of each head and one on the manifold. The ones on the back of the heads go to a t. The one on the manifold is on the back driver side.
Give me a call if you would like. 979-645-0330
 

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If 02_4pnt7 suggestion does not fix the problem. I would install your old tb and go from there.

But give Nicolas a call, he is a great guy and is always willing to help.
 

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When I installed the new TPS the problem got worse then a little better. If I cruise to a stop using minimum brake, then it will idle at 500-600, if I use the brakes too much then it shoots to and stays at 800 RPM when I come to a stop. If I switch to park or neutral it will still shoot up to 1200 RPM. I checked all the fluid levels and there good...

Another symptom: After the TPS install the truck will literally drive itself. It will stay at some RPM's and continue to stay at that RPM and speed! Do I need to get the TPS programmed with the computer somehow or reset the values?
I did the unhook the battery trick but didnt work... If I unhook the TPS the idle shoots to 1600 and as soon as I replug it in it goes to 1200...

I looked at the hoses and they looked ok. I didnt see anything to bad as far as that goes. Would they be horrible looking? They look no better or worse then any other hose in the engine bay. I dont hear any hissing or anything from anywhere inside the engine area.

I had this problem before I put the intake and TB on but it wasnt this bad. It only does it when the truck is warm. I dont know why but once shes warm its like shes a POS... Is there anyway to test the tubes, spraying liquid on them may change the idle and tell me if its letting in air or something like carb cleaner on a manifold to check for leaks? Just a shot in the dark lol. Also I notice the drive by wires hooked up to the adapter have play in them especially the inside one... you can move it almost about 1/2'' worth of play in it. Its been so long with this intake, but i thought when I replaced it there wasnt nearly as much play anybody remember?

Also I noticed my engine temp is going to the middle line and then back down, lots of variance and change. Coolant is proper mix and amount is good! The temp guage never moved like this before!!!
So maybe Coolant temp sensor is causing all these fuc*king problems with high idle when warm and in park and nuetral?? any ideas?

I appreciate everyones help!!!
 

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How does the '08 intake compare to the Sullivan?
 

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any 06 4.7s with the 08 manifold yet??
 
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