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2007 Hemi Eagle Swap

701 Views 20 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  HemiLonestar
I've seen it asked here and there about swaping a pre-eagle hemi for an eagle hemi. Most of the responses say buy a newer dodge. Occasionally there are some that say to do it but, make modifications. I have decided to do the full swap. That means I am putting a 2009+ Hemi into a 2007 and I will get the VVT and MDS working. That's the goal anyways. So for those wondering what's involved with doing this in a Durango I thought I would write it up. I will not be writing up anything standard with replacing the motor. I will only be documenting what has to be done to install an Eagle Hemi into a pre-2009 dodge.

This is by far easier to do in a car or truck. There's some issues with the 2009 Durango that make it a bit of challenge. Some documentation from Dodge seems to be wrong and parts can be difficult to find.

I have not completed the swap and I will update this as I go. I am currently halfway through.

Goal: Replace a dead 2007 Hemi with a 2009+ Hemi. Maintain the MDS functionality, add the VVT, and add the Short Runner Control.

Parts needed:
  • 2009+ Engine
  • 2009 PCM (Try to keep it close to 2009 so that it's compatible with the CAN bus. I have not nailed it down exactly but, I think 2009 and 2010 are likely your limit.)
  • 6.4L Cam (Not needed but, I'm here so might as well).
  • Hellcat Oil Pump (Great upgrade to avoid the "Hemi Tick" or premature lifter failure)
  • 2009+ Wire Harness
  • AC Compressor (This will be a big part of the challenge further explanation below)
  • AC Suction Pipe (I've only been able to source this from a junk yard more info below)
  • Timing Cover from an Eagle Hemi installed in a Truck or SUV.
  • Aspen/Durango Oil Pan (Pull from old Motor or get a new one)
  • 2009 Oil Pickup (Old one won't fit you'll need an 09 oil pickup for an Aspen/Durango)

In theory (I will confirm once I'm done
) getting the wire harness and PCM should make this swap very straightforward. The PCM will need to be programmed with your VIN and there may need to be some other changes made to vehicle options. This can be done with AlfaOBD and I will put screen shots in of all the changes I make once I'm at that step.

Here is the first problem that you will run into. The timing cover from a pre-eagle does not fit on an eagle. The cam sprocket used on the eagle is wider and interferes with the timing cover. This doesn't seem like a big deal but, all of the accessories move. If you look at the Mopar Parts catalog it looks like there is a timing cover that matches the original accessory positions but this is wrong. There is not one so don't look. I suspect the documentation is wrong because it is the only year for this version of the Durango. You can reuse the alternator without any issues. The Power Steering pump moves up a bit but still not an issue. The AC Compressor is the BIGGEST problem. You won't be able to reuse the AC Compressor. The 2009 Compressor mounts on the drivers side under the power steering pump. The good news is all of the hoses will still work except you will need an extension for the suction line. Again, the Mopar parts site doesn't document this pipe and you can only find it on a 2009 Durango or 2009 Aspen. This pipe was the hardest part for me to find. All of the other AC hoses are the same used on 2004 to 2009. The Compressor is also difficult to find. The parts sites like RockAuto have a pump listed that is supposedly used on a Sebring or Avenger. The pump is a 6SEU16 style pump with the rear extension. This is wrong and the pulleys will not line up. No one makes an aftermarket or a rebuilt compressor for the 09 Durango. The pump you need is a 10SRE20C. I think you can make the 10SRE18C from a Dodge Ram work but, I'm not 100% sure. I ended up ordering a salvage part from a Durango.


I have the old motor out. I'm currently cleaning up the new motor and installing new valve springs on the head. Once that is done I will be putting the new motor in. I'll add more to this post for any issues I run into. I'll also add picture this weekend.
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Ambitious, I like it. I may move this to the project section; we'll see how it plays out. I've been involved in some of these swaps, but usually a Ram or a Charger. A few notes:
I've seen it asked here and there about swaping a pre-eagle hemi for an eagle hemi. Most of the responses say buy a newer dodge. Occasionally there are some that say to do it but, make modifications. I have decided to do the full swap. That means I am putting a 2009+ Hemi into a 2007 and I will get the VVT and MDS working. That's the goal anyways. So for those wondering what's involved with doing this in a Durango I thought I would write it up. I will not be writing up anything standard with replacing the motor. I will only be documenting what has to be done to install an Eagle Hemi into a pre-2009 dodge.

This is by far easier to do in a car or truck. There's some issues with the 2009 Durango that make it a bit of challenge. Some documentation from Dodge seems to be wrong and parts can be difficult to find.

I have not completed the swap and I will update this as I go. I am currently halfway through.

Goal: Replace a dead 2007 Hemi with a 2009+ Hemi. Maintain the MDS functionality, add the VVT, and add the Short Runner Control.

Parts needed:
  • 2009+ Engine
  • 2009 PCM (Try to keep it close to 2009 so that it's compatible with the CAN bus. I have not nailed it down exactly but, I think 2009 and 2010 are likely your limit.)
  • 6.4L Cam (Not needed but, I'm here so might as well).
  • Hellcat Oil Pump (Great upgrade to avoid the "Hemi Tick" or premature lifter failure)
  • 2009+ Wire Harness
  • AC Compressor (This will be a big part of the challenge further explanation below)
  • AC Suction Pipe (I've only been able to source this from a junk yard more info below)
  • Timing Cover from an Eagle Hemi installed in a Truck or SUV.

In theory (I will confirm once I'm done
) getting the wire harness and PCM should make this swap very straightforward. The PCM will need to be programmed with your VIN and there may need to be some other changes made to vehicle options. This can be done with AlfaOBD and I will put screen shots in of all the changes I make once I'm at that step.

Here is the first problem that you will run into. The timing cover from a pre-eagle does not fit on an eagle. The cam sprocket used on the eagle is wider and interferes with the timing cover. This doesn't seem like a big deal but, all of the accessories move. If you look at the Mopar Parts catalog it looks like there is a timing cover that matches the original accessory positions but this is wrong. There is not one so don't look. I suspect the documentation is wrong because it is the only year for this version of the Durango. You can reuse the alternator without any issues. The Power Steering pump moves up a bit but still not an issue. The AC Compressor is the BIGGEST problem. You won't be able to reuse the AC Compressor. The 2009 Compressor mounts on the drivers side under the power steering pump. The good news is all of the hoses will still work except you will need an extension for the suction line. Again, the Mopar parts site doesn't document this pipe and you can only find it on a 2009 Durango or 2009 Aspen. This pipe was the hardest part for me to find. All of the other AC hoses are the same used on 2004 to 2009. The Compressor is also difficult to find. The parts sites like RockAuto have a pump listed that is supposedly used on a Sebring or Avenger. The pump is a 6SEU16 style pump with the rear extension. This is wrong and the pulleys will not line up. No one makes an aftermarket or a rebuilt compressor for the 09 Durango. The pump you need is a 10SRE20C. I think you can make the 10SRE18C from a Dodge Ram work but, I'm not 100% sure. I ended up ordering a salvage part from a Durango.

I have the old motor out. I'm currently cleaning up the new motor and installing new valve springs on the head. Once that is done I will be putting the new motor in. I'll add more to this post for any issues I run into. I'll also add picture this weekend.
1. SRV functionality doesn't exist in PCM's prior to 2011. This will require an rpm switch or possibly the Tazer harness might work here.
2. I like the cam upgrade plus it's a cheap and easy one that doesn't require tuning (though you'll get more out of it with tuning) and it keeps the VVT functional. For a write-up you should probably specify you're using the MDS 392 cam, as the non-MDS manual trans 392 cam is the usual performance upgrade.
3. Everyone is jumping all over the Hellcat pump but honestly for a pedestrian 5.7 without boost nor oil squirters it's overkill to the point where it is most likely too much. The 5.7 isn't a performance engine; clearances are different. I'd stick with a good aftermarket 5.7 upgrade or the 392 pump.
4. It's like that in all their parts manuals over the years, it's called being too cheap to either change or update the pictures over time.
5. You've already got springs or I'd recommend the fairly cheap OEM p/n 68277306AA. It's designed for the eagle head and good to .625 lift (plenty for the stock 392 cam).

Good luck and pictures pictures pictures.
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Ambitious, I like it. I may move this to the project section; we'll see how it plays out. I've been involved in some of these swaps, but usually a Ram or a Charger. A few notes:

1. SRV functionality doesn't exist in PCM's prior to 2011. This will require an rpm switch or possibly the Tazer harness might work here.
2. I like the cam upgrade plus it's a cheap and easy one that doesn't require tuning (though you'll get more out of it with tuning) and it keeps the VVT functional. For a write-up you should probably specify you're using the MDS 392 cam, as the non-MDS manual trans 392 cam is the usual performance upgrade.
3. Everyone is jumping all over the Hellcat pump but honestly for a pedestrian 5.7 without boost nor oil squirters it's overkill to the point where it is most likely too much. The 5.7 isn't a performance engine; clearances are different. I'd stick with a good aftermarket 5.7 upgrade or the 392 pump.
4. It's like that in all their parts manuals over the years, it's called being too cheap to either change or update the pictures over time.
5. You've already got springs or I'd recommend the fairly cheap OEM p/n 68277306AA. It's designed for the eagle head and good to .625 lift (plenty for the stock 392 cam).

Good luck and pictures pictures pictures.
1. That's really weird because the motor was taken out of an 09 Ram and has the module on the back of the intake. You can also order the actuator off of rockauto for an 09 1500.
2. It's also cheaper then getting the stock cam. The cam in the motor was chewed up by a failed lifter. I have all of the parts numbers so I'll list them when I get home.
3. I'm buying into the lifter problem being caused by low oil pressure at idle. It's common to see pressure in the teens while idling with the stock pump. The Hellcat idles in the 30's.
5. I order the performance springs since they are cheap. I know the stock should work but, I kept seeing conflicting information.
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1. That's really weird because the motor was taken out of an 09 Ram and has the module on the back of the intake. You can also order the actuator off of rockauto for an 09 1500.
2. It's also cheaper then getting the stock cam. The cam in the motor was chewed up by a failed lifter. I have all of the parts numbers so I'll list them when I get home.
3. I'm buying into the lifter problem being caused by low oil pressure at idle. It's common to see pressure in the teens while idling with the stock pump. The Hellcat idles in the 30's.
5. I order the performance springs since they are cheap. I know the stock should work but, I kept seeing conflicting information.
1. Hmm....the 09 Durango got the truck engine then, and not the car version? The later Durango models got the car version (static intake).
2. 👍
3. Your $$. The Hellcat needs that because it is boosted, has piston oil squirters and different clearances. In your 5.7 it's probably gonna be higher (not always a good thing). My last 5.7 at hot idle was about 20 psi. My 392 at hot idle is about 30 psi but it is actually a performance engine. If the oil pump was the reason the lifters failed then they would all fail. Like I said, your $$ but don't overkill it, it may do more harm than good. Hopefully you don't blow a rear main seal (that has happened). The reason for lifter failure (and this has been demonstrated and shown over and over and these stupid internet rumors still exist) is that Mopar cheaped out on lifters from 2009 to about 2014-15. (significant roller bearing differences). You don't hear about pre-eagle lifter failures and you generally don't hear as much post 2015. At least you aren't one of the ones that think MDS is the problem 😂😂
5. Good, I wouldn't trust the stock springs either (only good to about .550). The ones I posted are Mopar Performance (factory aftermarket) add-ons. .625 leaves plenty of room for the .571 intake lift.
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The new engine is in an bolted in. Still need to put all of the accessories in, radiator support, AC system, and the hood. I have pictures but I'll upload when I do the write up correctly.

Something most people probably know but I didn't realize. The Oil Pan and the Oil Pickup are different on the Aspen/Durango when compared to the Truck. I couldn't make the oil pickup work. The flange that bolts into the oil pump is at a different angle. I'll look closer when I go back today because the oil pumps should be the same. I ended up putting a slight bend in the 2009 oil pickup so that it would clear the edge of the oil pan.
Oil pump is the same regardless for VVT engines but wouldn't surprise me there's pan differences. 2G Durango (and Aspen) borrowed alot of stuff from the Ram but not everything.
Oil pump is the same regardless but wouldn't surprise me there's pan differences. 2G Durango (and Aspen) borrowed alot of stuff from the Ram but not everything.

I looked closer and found the problem.

The Oil pump from a pre-09 is different from the +09 5.7L. The flange is clocked slightly different on the oil pump. The pickups are also different in +09 between the Durango/Aspen and the Ram.

This is less and less of a "bolt" in then I was hoping. :)
Eh, so far your problems are minor. You had to know this wasn't gonna be a bolt and go. Usually the easy part is sorting out the mechanical/physical differences. Wiring and electronics suck.
Eh, so far your problems are minor. You had to know this wasn't gonna be a bolt and go. Usually the easy part is sorting out the mechanical/physical differences. Wiring and electronics suck.
You're right. All things that can be sorted out. I'm actually less worried about the electronics. I have all of the wiring diagrams and connector pin outs. I also have a spare harness to pull connectors from.

I have the engine in so there's some good news. The bad news is I've run into three problems that I'm struggling to solve.

1. Exhaust size is different. The Manifolds won't bolt up to the original exhaust. I need the flange to be bigger to fit onto the manifold. I'm going to visit the parts store and see if can't make something up. I might try a pipe expander to see if I can stretch it enough to fit.

2. The upper radiator hose won't work. This seems like yet another problem with Dodge's documentation on the 2009. The water pump in the 2009 has the inlet and outlet on the same side. The radiator has the outlets on opposite sides according to all of the documentation. The upper radiator hose is only long enough to fit on a radiator with the outlets on the same side. I highly suspect that Dodge did not document the radiator with both outlets on the same side. I can find pictures of 2009 Aspens and Durangos and the radiators appear to have the outlets on the same side (#1) but, I can't find a part number anywhere. I'm going to pickup an upper hose for a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The radiators have very similar dimensions and the outlets are the same size so it may work. The water pump is also a similar configuration.


3. The air intake (#2) is impossible to find. Yet another documentation issue. The Aspen/Durango uses an air hat that connects to the hose and to the air filter box. The truck uses a hose right out of the throttle body connected to the air filter box. I was hoping to use the Aspen/Durango setup but, good luck finding it. Dodge doesn't have part numbers for it and their catalog claims the pre-2009 air hat will work on an 2009. This is definitely not the case as the throttle body is in a completely different location.
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1. 2009 DODGE DURANGO 5.7L V8 Catalytic Converter | RockAuto
2. Should be like the Rams, super long crossover hose; this is how they cheap out from having to redesign the radiator:


3. Car-part.com is your friend:

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3
1. 2009 DODGE DURANGO 5.7L V8 Catalytic Converter | RockAuto
2. Should be like the Rams, super long crossover hose; this is how they cheap out from having to redesign the radiator:
View attachment 632675

3. Car-part.com is your friend:
View attachment 632673
View attachment 632674
1. Yea, I saw those. Was trying to avoid another $500 but, it would be nice. I did find adapters to reduce the size at a local parts store. I'm going to check them out and use that if they work. Otherwise.... might be another $500.

2. Right it should be super long. Look at the picture you posed and you can see they did redesign the radiator. Good luck finding it though. I found the Jeep hose should have the right ID to fit the radiator and it's shaped exactly like the Rams hose. Going to pick one up and try it out.

3. Car-Part.Com has been great. In fact I don't know if you noticed but, the picture you copied is the exact same one I used in my previous post. :) I've just struggled to get anyone to respond to the quotes so that I could purchase the part. I'll probably try it on that Air Cleaner Assembly though.
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1. Yea, I saw those. Was trying to avoid another $500 but, it would be nice. I did find adapters to reduce the size at a local parts store. I'm going to check them out and use that if they work. Otherwise.... might be another $500.

2. Right it should be super long. Look at the picture you posed and you can see they did redesign the radiator. Good luck finding it though. I found the Jeep hose should have the right ID to fit the radiator and it's shaped exactly like the Rams hose. Going to pick one up and try it out.

3. Car-Part.Com has been great. In fact I don't know if you noticed but, the picture you copied is the exact same one I used in my previous post. :) I've just struggled to get anyone to respond to the quotes so that I could purchase the part. I'll probably try it on that Air Cleaner Assembly though.
1. At least it's an available option.
2. Hopefully that works.
3. No, just took the pic they had up for it lol. I find it works better to call and bug them sometimes.
Swaps done. Was a struggle to get the VIN to write to the PCM. AlfaOBD is good but, APPcar seems better at writing information to the PCM.

Last gremlins to work out.

Getting the following codes.

P0958 - Autostick High Circuit
P0334 - Camshaft Postition Sensor Intermittent.

I'm not to worried about the Autostick. The PCM is from a Ram so it's looking for the autostick and there isn't one. I'm going to find a resistor to plug in so that it thinks its there. It runs off of different resistances to tell the PCM what to request (+ or -).

The P0344 is more troblesome. It's causing the truck to be in limp mode. I can drive it but, it's slow.

I've replaced the Camsensor. I"m going to double check the wiring since this is one of the connectors I had to relocate.

Any other things to look at?
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What year/vehicle is the cam sensor from?
What year/vehicle is the cam sensor from?
I got the sensor for a 2009 Aspen 5.7L.
Yeah recheck your wiring. Was it properly soldered or just butt connected? Intermittent connections and crappy grounds will drive you mad in a CAN bus vehicle.
Yeah recheck your wiring. Was it properly soldered or just butt connected? Intermittent connections and crappy grounds will drive you mad in a CAN bus vehicle.
Double checked the wiring. Good connections between the PCM and Sensor. I also checked the voltages on the sensor. The sensor drops to zero when metal goes in front of it like it should.

But, get this.

I put the old sensor back in. Instead of P0344 or P340 I get a P0016. I can switch the sensors back and forth and they always generate the same codes.

New Sensor - P340 or P344
Old Sensor - P0016

I'm going to go get another new sensor. NTK this time as some have suggested that the PCM is very sensitive to brand. The PCM also has a Cam/Crank relearn option that I might try.
Smallish update.

I checked a bunch of different things and redid some of the wiring just to make sure.

  • Cut, restriped, and resoldered the wires to the Cam Shaft Position Sensor.
  • Took the intake off and removed the VVT Solenoid to check the condition. The thing is of course spotless. Used the scan tool to actuate it and it works perfectly. At least mechanically.
  • Double checked the wiring on the SVR just to be sure it was good.

Put everything back together and installed Another brand new Cam Position Sensor. This time it was an NTK brand.

This time while testing I watched the Crank/Cam Difference, the Desired Exhaust Cam Position, the Actual Exhaust Cam Position, and the Cam Sync Status on the scan tool.

Here is the results.

NEW NTK Cam Position Sensor Installed. NEW CarQuest Crank Sensor.
  • Perfect start
  • Perfect Idle
  • Cam Sync Status = Not in Sync
  • Cam/Crank Difference = 30° (On start this value comes up and never change until started again. It will appear anywhere between 29.5° to 32°. There was ONE time that it said 8°. I think it's supposed to be single digits while idling).
  • Limp Mode Immediately after start up.
  • P0344 set immediately on start.

Old Cam Position Sensor Installed. New CarQuest Crank Sensor.
  • Perfect Start
  • Perfect Idle
  • Cam Sync Status = In Sync
  • Cam/Crank Difference = 30° (With the old sensor installed this value actually moves around after starting but, still 29.5° to 32°)
  • Limp Mode a little bit after start up not immediately.
  • P0016 set.

Additionally, when the old Cam Position Sensor is installed I was able to get it to stay out of limp mode every few starts for a few minutes. However, if I revved it up past 3000 it would randomly make a god awful screeching noise and immediately go into limp mode. While in limp mode the noise never happens. I also noticed that when the noise happened the cam/crank difference would rocket up to 60°.

Scratching my head on this one still. I'm going to use a bore scope to look in the timming cover and see if I can see anything. Make sure the tensioner and guide are still installed. I'm also going to look in the cylinders to see if anything is going on in there. Basically I'm going to inspect everywhere I can without taking the timming cover off. I'm pretty sure in the end I'm going to have to take the cover off.

Would a spun bearing be able to cause this?
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I was going to suggest that your use of non-OEM sensors is a big part of your problem (most likely is still a contributing factor, these things just seem to prefer the OEM stuff) until you mentioned the screeching. I'm getting the impression this has something to do with the timing set and/or VVT, especially after seeing the 60°.
I was going to suggest that your use of non-OEM sensors is a big part of your problem (most likely is still a contributing factor, these things just seem to prefer the OEM stuff) until you mentioned the screeching. I'm getting the impression this has something to do with the timing set and/or VVT, especially after seeing the 60°.
Yea, I'm getting more and more nervous about it. I might just bite the bullet and pull the timing cover. I checked and set the timing several times but, there's always rooms for mistakes.

Anyways to check without pulling the cover?
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