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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 Ram 2500 with the 5.9 360. Replaced the timing chain, cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires and all the gaskets besides the oil pain and rear main seals. When starting it, it takes a bit to start up unless you hold the throttle to the floor. Once it’s running, it stalls if you let it idle but it revs up perfectly like it just came off the lot in 2001. However even revving it up, it runs really rich and when attempting to get it to idle, it floods itself causing it to stall. I replaced the coolant temp sensor thinking it may be that but still same problem. It ran fine before just had issues starting and driving at the same speed due to the timing chain being loose. What could be causing it? Could it still be the temp sensor because I don’t have the radiator in?
 

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Would they be able to get stuck open from sitting for a little bit? They didn’t get any dirt or anything in them while the intake was off. I pulled the intake altogether. The fuel rail and injectors stayed in the intake
 

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the intake was off? you may have contaminated the exhaust. coolant or oil can saturate the o2 sensors especially the upstream bank one sensor. if it gets wet and fries the contaminants it will fail to read! do not use seafoam in the combustion chambers either. the o2s. the o2s contaminate easily!
just a guess
pull the rails out with the injectors attached. dis the coil. turn the key to run. this primes the pressure on the rails. with the injectors dangling in plain sight! you will see a failed open injector!
 

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it will drench the top of block. have a buddy keep an eye out watching it..
 

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Everything was pulled off the block. If an injector is stuck open will the resistance be different from the rest?
 

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Without the coolant temp sensor electrically hooked up, the PCM will interpret that as -40F outside air temperature, and try to compensate by making the mixture as rich as possible. Also,...Spun360 is correct in troubleshooting a stuck-open injector. Have you re-checked for,correct spark plug wire installation. A stuck open injector (electrical resistance), will not be any different than a properly operating injector. Try this, setup the injector electrical connectors to be easily removed from the injectors.,With the engine running at 1000 rpm approx.To get this lower idle speed create a small induction leak,by disconnection a small hose vacuum line.-,from the induction manifold source.The induction leak will offset the rich mixture-somewhat. Disconnect the injector electrical connector ,one at a time,noting which injector, when disconnected give NO change in RPM.This will identify which injector is stuck open. I'm not sure to what extent and how rich this problem is.. A fuel pressure gage when hooked up to the schrader test point will indicate a significant fuel press drop-off,after the fuel press rail has been pressurized, indicating a leaking injector. Propane that is delivered through a fine metering valve can get this engine to run at idle,with the fuel pump deactivated. these are troubleshooting ideas that you may be able to incorporate. hope any of these ideas help
 

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It’s running so rich it won’t even idle. It floods immediately when you try letting it idle. But thanks. I’ll test it. It’s the only thing I’m down to now except a few possible wiring problems
 

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I was able to pull my injector rails and turn on the key switch to verify all injectors were okay.
 
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