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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a 2000 Durango SLT 5.9l

The check engine light came on a few days ago, so i checked all the fluids and everything looks normal. The following day i went into town and it started to overheating, for no reason that i know of.

A few things i have noticed: Running on the highway the temp is normal, once i get into town where theres traffic/ stop lights it overheats. Just sitting in either drive or park somewhere idleing the temp starts to rise.
When its overheating if i go hop on the highway again the temp goes back down.

The fluid level is where its supposed to be. No leaks nothing, on the ground.
I can't figure out the problem.

Does anyone know what might be going on? This is my only car and its needed everyday, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-Robert
 

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It sounds like your radiator does not have sufficient airflow while idling or in stop/go traffic. Do you have an electric or a belt drive fan? If electric then your fan motor may be out. If belt driven then your fan clutch could be bad. While driving on the freeway the fan is not important because it has natural airflow. Also check your radiator for external blockages (bugs,leaves,debris). Let us know what you find. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply.

The fan is belt driven, i checked the belt its still in decent condition and its always running when the car is, never stops. The radiator has minimal bugs on it, nothing that would effect the cooling.

I'm going to flush it tomorrow if that dosent work then im going to switch out the thermostat, see if that makes a difference.

But I would still appreciate alternative suggestions :)
 

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OK, The fan may be spinning while idling but may not be spinning fast enough due to excessive clutch slippage. I've never seen one go bad myself but have read threads where this has been the problem. After your engine is hot and you shut your engine off, grab your fan blade and try to spin it. You should feel a "reasonable" amount of resistance. What is "reasonable"? I don't know but it should be more than when your engine is cold.
 

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Also, make sure you so not have any bent fins on you radiators. One square inch of bent fins will reduce your cooling capacity by 15%. I know the math doesn't add up based on those figures but that is what the product testing says. Especially with the AC system.
 

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sounds like the water pump is going up to me.....if the impeller is messed up that would sound about right, because at high speed the airflow is help keeping it cool along with the reduced amount of water flow, while in city driving low air flow with low water flow is a bad combination.....
 

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you could have a bad water pump. How hot is it getting at idle in traffic?
 

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The only differences affecting the cooling system in sitting still idling & highway driving are rpm and airflow. It sounds to me like more of an airflow problem. Did you check the fan clutch as I described. Was it replaced in your accident? If not, maybe it was damaged. Looks like your next two options are fan clutch & water pump. Which one is cheaper/easier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was wrong, I found out that it has the electric and the belt driven fan. We found out the the electric fan was not turning on, at all. CHecked the fuse thats good, the relay is also good. We rigged the fan directly to the battery to see if the motor was bad. turned out that was good as well. However, the fan would work when directly connected to power, but the orig setup is where something is wrong. So we figured on a temp fix of wiring the fan to a ground, and the relay outlet. The fan DID turn on with ignition. But Now the truck will not start. We undid everything that we have doneand everything is how it was origionally, yet the car still will not start.


We've had 3 people look at it since then and cannot figure out whats wrong. Taking it to a dodge dealer thurs. (which are hell) but maybe they can help...

If anyone has any ideas what may be wonrg, feel free to reply

P.S. Sorry for the mix up about the elec fan etc.

thanks - bob
 

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Oh boy, You done it now! First, have you recently had starting problems or is this the first time. What all did you do the first time you realized it wouldn't start? What does it do when you turn the key? Does it turn over? If your sure you didn't cut something you weren't supposed to then you probably just pulled something loose such as the coil wire. Or perhaps blew a fuse?
 

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Did you attempt to get the original code? It may have told you exactly what was wrong. Now that there are more issues, I check the codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have never had starting problem accept when the orig. battery died a few months ago, that was replaced. Wehn i turn the key it cranks and turns over very strong like normal. The starter/alt. everything are in great condition and have never given me a problem. Also, i've notice if i just leave the key turned to ignition but dont crank it, after a little while all the lights in the dash (low warnings/abs/sensors) start coming on one by one until most of them are lit up. No wires were cut, i unplugged the fan motor and connected wires i attached from the battery and relay slot directly into that connection. That was the only thing that was done, so there is no reason (that i know of) for this to happen. I checked every fuse and theyre all good, none burnt out. All the relays are good because i checked them in diff. spots.

As to the next reply, We did not attempt to get a code, (my father) was convinced that the check engine light had nothing to do with the overheating, although i thought it did.

I'm just afraid it may be something serious, My father has been working on all sorts of cars for over 30 years, as i have been helping him for the past 10 or so. And we cannot figure out what is wrong now.
 

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Well then, start with the basics. Check your schrader valve on the fuel rail to see if you have fuel pressure. Can you hear your fuel pump prime when you turn on the ignition? Then check for spark. Do you have coil-on-plug ignition or a single ignition coil with plug wires? If you don't have a spark tester, pull 1 plug out and with the wire attached and using a well insulated pair of pliers, hold the plug against a ground and crank. Should see a bright blue spark. Have you tried the ignition-key method for code retrieval? If a code was set, it should still be there. I wouldn't worry about all the lights coming on one-by-one. That's probably normal. Let us know ASAP. Getting close to your Thurs. dealer appt!
 

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Well...What's the verdict killervex?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well. I took it to an auto electric place instead to get an idea of whats going on. They got it to start and all.

But the problem with the check negine light and the overheating is still there, I was told something blew in the computer and keeps prompting a code, somethign about the electric fan being open. So I was told i need a new computer which they said only dodge can install because theyre D*ckheads and the only ones that can program theyre computers after its installed.

So it looks like i'm making a trip to the dealer anyways, but im going to wait till i can afford it. Untill then im just going to run a toggle switch to the fan.


Thanks for all you help guys, I appreciate it.
 

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What was the problem preventing you from starting the engine? Did it have anything to do with what you did? PCM - Sounds expensive.
 
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