DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got a 1998 dodge ram 2500 that i use as a mud truck but since i have owned it , it has smoked like crazy, im going through more oil than gas and that is not an overstatement, about 3 quarts a week sometimes more. my question is what is it. i replaced the plenum and it didnt effect it at all. i installed the hughes plenum plate. i dont know if it blew again or not but the truck still makes good power just smokes like mad. any input is greatly appreciated.
 

·
older trucks ARE better!
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
tough to say could be rings, valve guides or a collapsed piston skirt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,986 Posts
Since ican only ake a guess with out being able check it out i would lean toward some bad rings
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
what would my best way of atleast putting a bandaid on the truck for the time being as i have 2 weeks tell i run the truck at a mud bog and dont have time to tear into the motor. Nor do i have the money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I use 20w-50 full synthetic, i tried a bottle of motor honey and a can of restore and it still burns it like nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
807 Posts
Maybe you could hire out as a crop duster with the right chemicals in the old girl. A compression test would be a good way to start the healing. Might be easier to swap out the motor than repair the old one. Let the mud Gods decide!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
If i could afford to swap out the motor i would have done it a long time ago. this engine has taken a beating and still runs like a champ, no knocks ticks squeals or any other weird noises. its been down to a half a quart of oil in the pan. oil pressure gauge was going crazy so i checked the stick and it was bone dry. if it didnt smoke i would have no problem with the oil burning its just the smoke that bothers me.:D
 

·
Registered MOPAR User
Joined
·
9,350 Posts
Cans of marvels mystery oil to release the buildup/ crud sticking the oil rings into the groves. Sounds like you have a sludgy engine.. Pour it in run till its hot, add 5 more minutes, drain oil, replace oil. it may need a couple cycles to help unfreeze rings, other benefit is this treatment helps soften the old rubber seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
okay i will give that a try i havent done an oil change in god knows how long! burns it so fast that i just add and add and add.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
"Still makes good power", makes it sound like valve seals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
thats what i was starting to think. i have driven the truck with that for over a year, now it has reach the level that its annoying. i try to kill the thing so i have a reason to fix it up but still runs like a dream!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
If seals are bad, and heads are not "draining/returning oil to sump" freely, valves would be "submerged?" in the "trapped" oil(had 46_ forb like that, saw a few others too). ... Failed/broken valve seals would "plug up" the drains, and the "bare" valve stems would be submerged? in the "trapped" oil. Since motor is lower at the back, rear drain/s is the worst offender. Avoid digging them out as that may allow some pieces to fall, I used an old shop vac.

... ERRATIC dipstick readings can be a sign of plugged drains, especially when motor has run a short time, but the motor and trapped oil are still coolish/cold.

- So, leave it sit "overnight/8 hrs" to get an ACCURATE reading:
- then idle motor 1-2 mins, tap the gas gently 1-2 times to pump a bit more oil up top, shut it off;
-wait 20 min then check oil again, and then every 20-30 min thereafter.
- I'm guessing 20-50 syn and summer temps readings should return to normal in about an hr, but may take many hrs if drains are plugged(seals, old gasket bits, trash, and the aforementioned sludge). This is not exact, but concept of cooler oil/motor= longer drain back times. Not good that the head/exhaust ports are COOKING the trapped oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
im going to have it pressure checked and what not tomorrow and if i got time the heads are coming off hopefully nothing major but i will run it tell she blows it it is major.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
Good luck, let us know what ya find.
 

·
older trucks ARE better!
Joined
·
1,469 Posts
If seals are bad, and heads are not "draining/returning oil to sump" freely, valves would be "submerged?" in the "trapped" oil(had 46_ forb like that, saw a few others too). ... Failed/broken valve seals would "plug up" the drains, and the "bare" valve stems would be submerged? in the "trapped" oil. Since motor is lower at the back, rear drain/s is the worst offender. Avoid digging them out as that may allow some pieces to fall, I used an old shop vac.

... ERRATIC dipstick readings can be a sign of plugged drains, especially when motor has run a short time, but the motor and trapped oil are still coolish/cold.

- So, leave it sit "overnight/8 hrs" to get an ACCURATE reading:
- then idle motor 1-2 mins, tap the gas gently 1-2 times to pump a bit more oil up top, shut it off;
-wait 20 min then check oil again, and then every 20-30 min thereafter.
- I'm guessing 20-50 syn and summer temps readings should return to normal in about an hr, but may take many hrs if drains are plugged(seals, old gasket bits, trash, and the aforementioned sludge). This is not exact, but concept of cooler oil/motor= longer drain back times. Not good that the head/exhaust ports are COOKING the trapped oil.
Oh yeah I forgot that possibility
back in about '85ish my Dad bought an 81 Olds Gutless wagon, complete with woodgrain down the sides.... It was originally a 350 Diesel powered car, by the time we got it someone had swapped in a '78 Olds 350 gas motor... we had that exact issue with this car, smoked like a chimney so I pulled the heads and sent them off for a valve job (which would include new seals among the rest of the work done during a valve job)
When I pulled the valve covers I got at least a qt and 1/2 that spilled over the rail as I pulled each cover. the drainback holes in the heads, were totally blocked. and th lifter valley was among the worst sludged I had ever seen I left the drain plug out of the pan and after I hand scraped all that I could out of the lifter valley, then I poured a bunch of kerosene thru the lifter valley and right out the pan drain... until it came out clean.
After this it was actually a petty good car fo my parents for several years..'' no more smoke no more oil burning... it helped that we kept up on oil changes from then on way better than whoever owned the car that the engine had come from, did before we got that car. ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
sounds good guys, my buddy will be working on the truck for me while im off at school for another week. hopefully its a something simple and quick cause i love the truck just dont have the funds to put into it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
Submerged? bare valve stems suck/pump ish oil, and the 40% that goes out ex stem/valve does not affect power output. Might be 2 week/low buck fix your looking for.
... Myself, I'd do comp test; keep in mind the most fouled plugs = the most fouled chambers = probably higher than normal readings on those cyl. gtg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,143 Posts
If seals are bad, and heads are not "draining/returning oil to sump" freely, valves would be "submerged?" in the "trapped" oil(had 46_ forb like that, saw a few others too). ... Failed/broken valve seals would "plug up" the drains, and the "bare" valve stems would be submerged? in the "trapped" oil.
Well i never seen that happen in any Chrysler motor(small-big block). Usually they turn to a hard plastic and to get them off you need a chisel.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top