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Hey guy's,

My name is George. Still a virgin to these forums as far as postin, but have read for a long while. Its been said a million times but I'll say it again for truth's sake. This is THE BEST site for mopar owner's. Anyway I'll start off with the truck. 1998, 1500, 5.2, 46RE to 48RE Specs, 3.55 Gears, Quad Cab, Two Wheel. 125,000 Mile's. Forrest green and silver. Super clean truck. Bought it a year and a half ago for $8500 and have been very busy with it. First I did the stereo(all Alpine). Alpine Deck, Type R mids and high's all the way around, Two Type R 12's(Dual 4 Ohm each series-parallel to two Ohms one channel. 1 MRD-M1005 with 1085 watts RMS to the bass alone. I got another MRV-F545 100 X 4 RMS for the mids and highs. In went the 140 amp alternator, Yellow top Optima and the BattCap 300 Under the seat. Still does'ent stop the dimming but I can start the truck with the Optima disconnected and no one can disable the alarm. I installed a 1000watt Xantrax Power Inverter for fun. Shortly after all that I got the performance bug. First was a Cat back by Bullet.Then A FIPK K&N. I lifted it, put some Forged Weld Racing rims in BFG 33''x12 1/2''s. Then I got to the tranny. It was rebuilt by some hacker(A month before I bought the truck!!!) who threw it together with the ultra hackness, causing the pump behind the torque converter to go(bearings and then pump). That caused low line pressure, making the torque converter shudder when under load when locked up. I did some reading here and solved that once and for all. It was a WEAK stock rebuild anyways. In the trans went... Alto Red Eagle master rebuild kit plus 2 extra clutches and 2 extra steels, rigid Carbon intermediate band, #5X billet 5 clutch direct drum, performance 3-4 accumulator spring, heavy duty Sonnax low / reverse servo, Sonnax heavy duty / no leak intermediate servo cover, 5 to 1 ratio intermediate servo band lever, full time torque converter fluid feed valve, Mega Spring for more holding power in 1st - 2nd and 3rd and a heavy duty intermediate band apply strut. 48RE parts, all three 6 pinion planet gears, sun gear and shell, front and rear ring gear, race for shell, front planet sleeve, 3 thrust washers, overdrive backing plate, forward clutch backing plate, overdrive brake backing plate, 300M input shaft, 1 extra overdrive brake clutch and steel and 23 overdrive single sided clutches. The tranny is built to take ANYTHING I can throw at it. The torque converter was replaced with a 11'' billet piece, set to 2200 estimated stall. Getting out of the hole? I can spin my 33's. The truck is a whole new animal. Part throttle response is SO MUCH BETTER. The old tranny was a major drag on the motor, I would floor it going up the 6% grade here and would not go any faster than if I was at 3/4 throttle. Now it goes when i step on it, instant crisp dowshifts and ultra firm upshifts in all gears. 3rd and 4th gear Converter Lockup is very very firm too. Very worthy for $4000. Sounds like a lot but I know people that have paid almost the same for a stock rebuild!!! I know this one will do 100K easy. Then came the rear end. Full rebuild, New 3.55 Yukon gears, and a new stock Track-Loc. Now I'm wanting a perfect running motor. For now I want it tight and right, money is bad right now, due to winter months and no work, so until the beginning of next year I will make due. I have done a LOT to track down this misfire it has had since I have owned it, and it's on my last nerve. So far I did the NAPA Brass Cap & Rotor, MSD 8.5mm wires(Custom Cut and triple checked), New Coil , Autolite 3923's, 8 Brand new fuel injectors, a seafoam treatment(TB, Brake Booster vac line, oil and gas), O2 sensors(Both), Cleaned the TB and sensors to factory new, Compression check and plenum check. It does NOT burn oil at all. All fluids are synthetic and fresh and it runs awsome for a 5.2. Smooth idle and lots of power. I also put on the gator back belt, Stant 180 Thermostat, Fuel filter and PCV valve. Also performed the crank sensor mod. and fuel pressure test. I got lucky enough to not get the "death flash". Anyway the truck still has the intermittent miss. It only does it at idle(600RPM). The plugs looked perfect from that cylinder, as well as every other. Light brown/tan with slight electrode wear. What I do know is, it is getting spark for sure. Pretty sure. When I hooked up a light to the #5 injector output it did not light for a few seconds and then came on by itself. I moved the wire around to see if it has a break in the wire maybe and it was rock solid. Plugged the injector in and all was fine. Idled smooth as silk for the time it was in the drive way and as soon as my test drive came to a stop light....there was the damn miss. It will throw a code, then it will go out. Over and over. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, dry or humid. Most trips it will run perfect, sometimes it will miss on just that cylinder. I've never messed with the distributer and checked to see if it was tweaked before, and it was set correctly. The wires are spaced away from any possible ground(hoses too) and each other. I have got the gas mileage to average 15mpg and I do a lot of city. At least I got something for all that work. I need to know just out of Curiousity, if the PCM see's spark missing at a cylinder, will it drop the fuel to save the cat or should the engine light flash to let me know my cat is going into meltdown. I have no sparks under the hood at night and I also sprayed the engine down with running water to see if that would induce sparks. Nothing. I have tested it many times and I have yet to see spark drop off. The plug is perfect and has been swapped. Fuel Injector too. Why would the PCM cut fuel? Does it even have the ability to even do that? I have read that fine hairline cracks develop on the heads between the intake and exaust valve's, causing this misfire possibly. Compression was 140ish at that cylinder, could this be the cause possibly? I have also read that the timing chains have this coating that wears off and gives enough slack to get the valves out of perfect tune. The chain has been done recently by the stealership(30k miles ago). Next thing that comes to mind is the distributer shaft play....maybe its too sloppy? I wiggled the rotor to check, and it had just a hair of play. Very minute. Could this be the cause? I am out of ideas and am ready to pull the bulb.......well not really, it's there for good reasons. Can a PCM go bad? Is it too sensitive? I understand it collects mifire info from the CPS. It did this misfire before I did the timing advance mod too. I would not mind getting the Mopar Performance one but I wan't a custom flash after I add parts like heads, cam, intake, Fastman TB and headers. There's much work to commence, I want a mean, mean mouse motor but first things first, getting it right like it should be before hand. Thanks for reading this far, I owe this site many many thanks, as well as the people in it.
 

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Holy Post Batman!!!

OneSlowRam said:
Anyway the truck still has the intermittent miss. It only does it at idle(600RPM). The plugs looked perfect from that cylinder, as well as every other. Light brown/tan with slight electrode wear. What I do know is, it is getting spark for sure. Pretty sure. When I hooked up a light to the #5 injector output it did not light for a few seconds and then came on by itself. I moved the wire around to see if it has a break in the wire maybe and it was rock solid. Plugged the injector in and all was fine. Idled smooth as silk for the time it was in the drive way and as soon as my test drive came to a stop light....there was the damn miss. It will throw a code, then it will go out. Over and over. Doesn't matter if it's hot or cold, dry or humid. Most trips it will run perfect, sometimes it will miss on just that cylinder. I've never messed with the distributer and checked to see if it was tweaked before, and it was set correctly. The wires are spaced away from any possible ground(hoses too) and each other. I have got the gas mileage to average 15mpg and I do a lot of city. At least I got something for all that work. I need to know just out of Curiousity, if the PCM see's spark missing at a cylinder, will it drop the fuel to save the cat or should the engine light flash to let me know my cat is going into meltdown. I have no sparks under the hood at night and I also sprayed the engine down with running water to see if that would induce sparks. Nothing. I have tested it many times and I have yet to see spark drop off. The plug is perfect and has been swapped. Fuel Injector too. Why would the PCM cut fuel? Does it even have the ability to even do that? I have read that fine hairline cracks develop on the heads between the intake and exaust valve's, causing this misfire possibly. Compression was 140ish at that cylinder, could this be the cause possibly? I have also read that the timing chains have this coating that wears off and gives enough slack to get the valves out of perfect tune. The chain has been done recently by the stealership(30k miles ago). Next thing that comes to mind is the distributer shaft play....maybe its too sloppy? I wiggled the rotor to check, and it had just a hair of play. Very minute. Could this be the cause? I am out of ideas and am ready to pull the bulb.......well not really, it's there for good reasons. Can a PCM go bad? Is it too sensitive? I understand it collects mifire info from the CPS. It did this misfire before I did the timing advance mod too. I would not mind getting the Mopar Performance one but I wan't a custom flash after I add parts like heads, cam, intake, Fastman TB and headers. There's much work to commence, I want a mean, mean mouse motor but first things first, getting it right like it should be before hand. Thanks for reading this far, I owe this site many many thanks, as well as the people in it.
I think is what your question is specifically. I have no clue just trying to help out, if your post turns of ppl for not wanting to read. How do you like your tranny?

Welcome to the forum
 

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have you done a leak down test?????? basically a compression tester with an air fitting instead of a guage..........pull plug, install line, apply shop air..............if air/bubbles show up in coolant.....cracked head and/or gasket............if air in crankcase.........bad rings.........if air out intake.......bad iintake valve.........if air out exhaust........bad exhaust valve............

valve seats have been known to either........fallout(believe it or not) or get hammered and allow the valve to "sink" into the head.

also check the valve springs.........another known problem......rare but possable.........
 

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somewhere in that he did mention compression was 140............a little low to my ears/eyes...........but should be compared to other cylinders.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guy's. Ateup2damax, the tranny is very "solid" feeling. Absolutley happy with it. Well worth the money time and research. Check out Performance Automatic Transmission Center. They got the "kit" for our tranny and it is the best one out there. Everything has been thought of. It is however $3000 for parts minus torque converter. Worth every penny. Gramol, I will try the leakdown test today if possible and if not, tomarrow for sure. I like your method with shop air. Great tip for knowing for sure. I'll have to get a adapter and try this as well. Should I fill to 60lbs 100lbs? I cant belive the valve seats fall out!!! I know my bike is 9 to 1 comp ratio and I know for sure the reading was over(barely) 180lbs when kicked real good. Looks like a performance build soon. The range was 160 to 140 so they are all worn, rings and pistons, I'd bet. Also my buddy has a 5.2 Dakota same year but a stick. Last night we looked at the PCM and it looks to be the same. Are they interchangable for a few days to eliminate that from my prob? I thought I read somewhere that the performance will suck but if it runs, it's only temporary.
 

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my tank at work is regulated to 150 psi.........never had a problem.......just hook up yhr line..........you may need to relaes the air and turn the motor so that cylinder 5 is on compression..........both valves closed and expect the motor to turn/push the piston down as you apply air.........have the coolant cap off.........the oil cap or dipstick out as well.........good luck...
 
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