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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a intermittent stalling issue, just up and quits when it wants too, but not more than twice per driving cycle, roughly 3-4 hours a day. (if that makes any sense..lol).

2 Car Pro's mentioned possibly compression or Vacuum, I think not on the compression, because it runs fine otherwise and for long periods, and theoretically thinking if it was compression it would run like crap or not at all. The motor runs smooth. There were some broke Vacuum lines that I repaired, didn't help.

An employee at autozone said possibly the fuel filter, I changed that and it still done the stall, it did need changed tho, it was restrictive when blowing through it, I did wonder it maybe fuel system cleaner would help?

Done wiggle test on Relays/Fuses, wiggle test on plug wires, coil connectors, nothing replicated the stall. I also replaced the plugs last month, so those are good.

I cleaned the IAC a while back and that didn't help the stall issue.

Anyone else have any ideas? I also checked the fuel pressure and it was 41 lbs before I changed the filter.

Also No engine codes were found. but there is a slightly cracked ground cable end on the battery but it stays tight so I haven't replaced it.
 

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You can try swapping the ASD relay with another relay in the fuse block. Another thought is you might be facing an intermittent cam or crank sensor problem, but they're something best diagnosed with an oscilloscope if it turns out to be a signal failure. You may not be out of the woods on a possible fuel pump problem. 41psi looks low to me. The pump might have gotten weak trying to push past that old fuel filter if it was plugged up enough. Get a spec on the fuel pressure to compare to before you throw a pump at it. Recheck the fuel pressure now that you've got a clean filter in there too so you're comparing an accurate number against the spec.
 

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You can try swapping the ASD relay with another relay in the fuse block. Another thought is you might be facing an intermittent cam or crank sensor problem, but they're something best diagnosed with an oscilloscope if it turns out to be a signal failure. You may not be out of the woods on a possible fuel pump problem. 41psi looks low to me. The pump might have gotten weak trying to push past that old fuel filter if it was plugged up enough. Get a spec on the fuel pressure to compare to before you throw a pump at it. Recheck the fuel pressure now that you've got a clean filter in there too so you're comparing an accurate number against the spec.
+1. ... Check fuel press while driving with engine under load.

... Fix the batt cable; Dodges are fussy about batteries and charging or they may have weird running issues, but usually do not quit.
... That said, my 97 for some reason intermittently lost engine power a few times about a year ago, then was ok; now it has a batt or charging issue of some sort (gen light came on a month ago and threw a code; trickle charged it for 2 days and cleared the code; it still seems to run ok but charges a bit irregular (has not been on highway though).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for both of your replies, I had this question posted on a couple sites, I noticed the fuel pressure may be trickling down so I suspected that its probably the fuel pressure regulator not holding the pressure when keyed off and theoretically not holding it enough to reach 49 psi. I went and ordered one.. Someone mentioned the crank & Cam sensors, I will do those afterwards if the pressure regulator doesn't fix it. I'll keep you all updated
 

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The neg cable terminal should have two or three cables at the terminal. The lightest gauge one will kill the engine if it has any problems with a connection. If you can wiggle it with the key on engine off some of the relays will click if there is a bad connection. In my case it would also not crank up after stalling out. But it was very loose and barely had a connection.
When it stalls, does it restart right up? If not try tapping on the fuel tank with a 2 x 4 to see if that gets the pump going again. Once they are stressed from work (clogged filter) they start to loose windings in the motor and get weaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The neg cable terminal should have two or three cables at the terminal. The lightest gauge one will kill the engine if it has any problems with a connection. If you can wiggle it with the key on engine off some of the relays will click if there is a bad connection. In my case it would also not crank up after stalling out. But it was very loose and barely had a connection.
When it stalls, does it restart right up? If not try tapping on the fuel tank with a 2 x 4 to see if that gets the pump going again. Once they are stressed from work (clogged filter) they start to loose windings in the motor and get weaker.
Yeah, starts right back up after it stalls. I'll check all three wires on the ground tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got a fuel pressure regulator but no seal/gaskets, I'm assuming its best to replace those gaskets for safety reasons since I would be removing the pump assembly, however I did replace a bad battery cable end this morning and drove to a nearby town and back with no stalls, I'll keep an eye over the course of a few more trips to see if its been rectified.. I think I'll recheck the fuel pressure just for the crazy idea that for some strange theoretical idea or instance that a bad battery cable end possible have anything to do with the pump pressure not being high enough.. (ex: pump amperage possibly being affected by the cable end).. Probably not possible but still going to recheck the pump pressure just so I can sleep better..lmao
 

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Oh so you did not try to wiggle the wire with key on engine off?
That would of been the sure way of knowing if that was a problem.
The relay next to the battery would of been clicking with the connection wavering.


Just out of curiosity where did you get a fuel pressure regulator without gaskets?
You can go back to that parts house and have them check another package.
Someone may of taken YOUR gaskets. Unless this was a dealer part.
Then the counterperson should of sold you the necessary gaskets......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh so you did not try to wiggle the wire with key on engine off?
That would of been the sure way of knowing if that was a problem.
The relay next to the battery would of been clicking with the connection wavering.


Just out of curiosity where did you get a fuel pressure regulator without gaskets?
You can go back to that parts house and have them check another package.
Someone may of taken YOUR gaskets. Unless this was a dealer part.
Then the counterperson should of sold you the necessary gaskets......
I forgot to check it again, seemed like I wiggled it with it running once, would it matter if it was running or off? If it was causing the stall, it would have stalled it I would have thought. But the end was about 1/8" from being broken on one side, seemed like it was pretty tight regardless tho, but still needed replaced.

The pressure regulator was bought on ebay, I'm starting to hate ebay, there have been so many problems on there and eBay is not doing anything about, the problem was the guy had the listing with 3 photos 1 photo with the seals/gaskets and 2 more photo's of just the regulator. And in the description he never stated that it was JUST a regulator, another thing was that the item title said it "Standard PR262" and had the Standard stock photo with the seals, yet way down in the end of the listing I noticed it said "THIS PART IS NOT A STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCT. THIS PRODUCT IS AN AFTERMARKET REPLACEMENT. ALL PRODUCTS ARE BRAND NEW, RETURNS ACCEPTED UNTIL 30 DAYS AFTER PURCHASE, EITHER A REPLACEMENT OR A FULL REFUND, BUYERS CHOICE."

That is some shady seller practices, and what's stupid is he has a TOP RATED SELLER badge, which apparently means nothing nowdays, his feedback has been getting worse as I've noticed some other recents purchases have been left with negative feedback. the guy had a 99.4% + feedback. He hasn't replied to a message I sent him.

I tell you one thing, if he tells me to return it and I end up having to pay for the return, he can't shove it, because I shouldn't be responsible for having to return something that was not listed properly to begin with.
 

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Well cannot help with online sales. Not sure how you would go about it with ebay, maybe put in a claim for damaged packaging during shipping with missing product?

Yes even running should of had trouble. With engine off easier to listen for the relays to click. If there was that little of a ground, that could affect the fuel pressure pump big time. There are three grounds so not sure which one. Less ground sometimes means more heat in the electric circuit. More amps needed to operate an item.


Here is to hoping you are done and no damage occurred......
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I appreciate it Steve, I went on a short trip again and nothing happened, but until I go to the next city over and back 25-30 miles round trip again its when it usually done it, like I said it didn't do it the other day or today, another few of those trips will tell me whether or not its still going to do it or not, so far it hasn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Welp.. Bad news, it stalled once yesterday and 3 times today. Can someone tell me how to check the resistance on the coil pack using a multimeter?
 

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Why? All three coils will not fail intermittently at the same time.


You are looking for a bad fuel pump, cam/crank sensor or ground/power fault.

Been a little while have you checked codes? Might have something new.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why? All three coils will not fail intermittently at the same time.


You are looking for a bad fuel pump, cam/crank sensor or ground/power fault.

Been a little while have you checked codes? Might have something new.
Well I have a spare coil pack that I thought about installing, no new engine codes just the pesky P0420.
 

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Just saying that if one coil pack is failing, the other two (or four cylinders) will still fire. So the engine would not die out as an automatic car.


One thought came to mind as past experience. Back in the '80's cars if one or more injector had a bad coil inside it the power draw would be enough to stop operation of the other injectors on that power feed. Three dead cylinders would be enough to kill the engine. Not sure if the Mopar injectors ever acted that way but with high mileage who knows?

Even cold the bad injector will have a much lower resistance (more power draw) than the others. Check them all with an ohm meter. On that same line of logic, check the power at the injector (any one) for close to full battery voltage. If less than 10 volts you found a problem.


Many moons ago with a '87 New Yorker turbo (Dad and I had two Red and Grey) on a Summer trip to the Badlands and Deadwood SD the power module overheated and the car died slowly like running out of gas. Being a single coil ignition the spark was also very weak. Knowing those power modules as a past mechanic we iced it down from the cooler stock, and in 5 min on the road again. Held up the entire way but when the temps rose it was suffering. No A/C for the rest of the trip! We were still heading there when it happened. Replaced the power module later that month when convenient.

The power supplies are stronger now, but the wiring/connectors might be slowing the power flow down enough that a weak injector could be taxing the system just enough. May be worth the time to put a very cheap voltmeter on one injector and drive around to see if the power dives down at times. The bad injector will act as a short on the system......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I kept reading this on different sites:

"You might try checking the coil. I had one that got hot and shut down."

I just wanted to explore it anyway. I did notice the engine felt pretty hot, most generally it stalls more when I go to the next town, which involves higher speeds and longer travel that it does to my town from the house, I notice it stalls more when I take the longer trip, I believe I could go to the close town multiple times without it acting up, odd thing about it the gauge doesn't show much above Normal on the temp gauge, and when I say more more I mean a insignificant amount above the half way mark, but it does feel hot as hell under the hood.
 

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Sure a single coil distributor style system.

Still easy task to check the ohm readings at the various terminals of any coil and check that against a known good one. One reading way off and you found it.....
 
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