had to give it gas I figured it out,
A mechanic shop checked the oil(it was full even tough the pin was at low, but not flashing).
mileage is in km, two sets of them, 33554 and 504,2/3 ?
They are weird sounds with the motor now as if it was over working
Thanks!
Your welcome.
... Yup, you figured some of it out already; just pay attn to do's/dont's;---
---note engine sound when cranking as it sometimes helps to determine if flooding (floor pedal); or not firing
---if not firing in 1 to 4 secs, may need to press pedal a tad, bit more, some, 1/2, or more (you get the idea; listening to cranking is important).
..Keep your eyes open for oldtimers (lol)
mostly 50+yrs old that can/will do carb repairs if needed; they're very hard to find nowadays, and are less and less of them as time goes on (chokes little parts are getting older and more worn out, and maybe more fussy/quirky).
..You
may need them to set a real fussy choke for you which can be a
repeat headache sometimes, so may be better to live with minor quirks if you can (
often the mechanic needs your vehicle overnight and outside in the cold so real fussy choke can be ice cold in morning and then checked/set and then monitored as engine fully warms up; ).
..Best to not mess with choke if possible; resetting it---
---may fix it
---may cause new or different quirks to figure out
---or may cause new/bigger problems (stalling or won't start/run properly, and more overnight visits at mechanics shop).
... I do not understand
"pin was low, but not flashing"??
..Sounds like it has an "oil light", but
what is "pin"?
... Dash cluster will have "odometer" (odo) and a "trip meter" (trip);
trip will have a button/stem/something close to it protruding thru the lens that you push to reset to zero (0000); it will then count mileage for you, reset it whenever you want (use it to record mileage on trips etc, to calculate gas mileage between fillups, or how far to Grandmas house).
..Look closely at trip meter;
sometimes the backround color for the last (4th) digit is a different color (or digit is different color); color/s or not,
your trip last digit represents 1/10 or .1 km.
..504 2/3 is trip reading of 504.2 km and is part way to .3 (odo/trip of your vans era and before were
mechanical; trip is 4 small wheels with
0123456789 on each wheel); observe 4th digit when driving, it will move/change 1/10 at a time.
..If when driving you
hear slight clicks/clicking from dash
likely the 1/10 wheel is dirty and is stuck/sticking; watch last digit on the trip and odo closely,
offending wheel may jiggle or move up/down etc a tad;
best to try pushing reset a few times or maybe bang etc dash with fist to
unstick it to help prevent damage to wheels etc.
..Older vehicles did not have trip just odo, so their last digit of odo had the 1/10 km wheel (or 1/10 mile wheel).
... Your vans odo reading (aka "mileage") is 33,554 km;
beware: a/your 5 digit odo can only record a maximum of 99,999 km and then "turns/flips over" back to all zeros (would be 100,000 km, but only has 5 digits so it shows 00000); then records km again just as if van was brand new!! (but would actually have 100,000 km on it!!).
.."Likely" need to add 1, 2, 3, 4, or even 500,000 km to odo reading; yes, it could have a 1/2 a million km or a zillion or more!!, no way of knowing for sure (look closely at all corners/edges of brake/gas pedals where drivers foot touches, they may be worn a little, or worn a whole bunch indicating high miles; ditto for door handles and window cranks/knobs and material around them, anywhere hands or feet commonly touch/move; also squashed/worn seats, rugs;
use your better judgement here, if Previous Owner/s (PO) had dirty/
gritty work boots etc pedals edges/corners will show more wear, they may have been sloppy, ham handed, or old parts may have been replaced with new ones at some time and now show very little wear!!) (not to be alarmist, but darn good to have mechs/oldtimers or someone knowledgeable about VANS/vehicles to look at it and give their "opinions" before stuffing wads of cash into vehicle).
...
Weird overworking sounds may be a sticking/dragging brake/s, or E-brake; old e-brake cables often rust/stick and burn up the rear brake/s, shoes and drum$.
..Dragging brake/s get much hotter than normal; with brakes cold, drive 2 to 4 km and avoid using brakes if you can so they remain cold, roll to stop if possible (use brake is ok); being 1 or more front brake rotor or rear drum may be very warm/HOT; if you
can not feel heat when hand is a few inches away (and no stink or smoke)
carefully and very quickly tap touch surface and pull away, then pause (just like testing any hot "testable" surface) if ok
quickly tap/touch/pull/pause again, again again
till you get an idea if brake is cool enough to actually touch/"feel" or will BURN fingers!!
..Front rotors will likely be warmer/HOTTER than rear drums and is normal; beware,just because the first 1 or any you checked and determined were cool enough to feel, does not mean the 4th brake is too;
any brake may be cool, warm, HOT enough to burn you quickly, or even way HOTTER!!
... Unless van feels heavy/draggy and you need to push gas pedal more as if brake/s are dragging,
"overworking" can be easily confused with "fan roar" (sounds same ish as revving engine very high).
..It's normal after sitting overnight ish for the "thermatic" fan clutch to cause
fan roar soon after startup and will be louder when driving/revving and may/will remain noisy for up to 5?? km and then quiet down to normal (till/
if air coming thru/from rad gets hot enough to increase engagement).
..They are
still often very misunderstood (and now in the modern era of e-fans are even more misunderstood; may soon need oldtimer advice for these also or could get ripped off$$$).
..Link is for your info, so no one rips you off; pay attn, do not confuse cheaper "NON thermal" (has smooth front face) with "thermal" (
darn sure yours should have a "thermal" fan clutch; it will have a visible snail type bi-metal spring on the front)
http://www.haydenauto.com/featured products-fan clutches and fan blades/content.aspx
... Like the motor,
learn to check automatic (aka auto) trans fluid yourself (others may be sloppy/inaccurate;
correct fluid level is important, do not under/over fill auto trans, or it may cause oil foaming).
..DK your trans dipstick, but likely has a
"crosshatched area", and usually will have
marks or dots for when fluid is hot or cold.
..Fluid type to use/add will be stamped on dipstick
..Best for auto trans is to check fluid level when transmission is fully warmed up, but is not always possible (auto trans usually takes much longer than the motor to fully warm up, about 40?? km in summer; during heavy throttle take offs or working hard on hills etc etc
torque converter (aka conv) will produce a lot of heat, and heats up trans much quicker, maybe too much!!).
...
To check Dodge auto trans fluid level: van must be
LEVEL (and e-brake for safety), IDLING, hold brake and cycle gear selector thru all gears pausing in each position ending in NEUTRAL---
---pull dipstick out and wipe off
---reinsert stick FULLY (often seal? at top needs to pop into place)
---pull stick and read level (
keep stick upright ish, never invert stick to view/read or fluid may run giving a false/fuller reading)
---wipe/reinsert/pull to check again.
... If trans is at room temp or warmer, fluid level in crosshatched area is ok (sorry can not be more precise, DK 87 stick marks/dots).
Always note condition of fluid;
should not smell burnt, and should be red but clear (wipe/put some on
white paper towel or your finger).
..Sorry for messy post.
