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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone.
I am completely unfamiliar with this electrical system on a truck we recently purchased (318ci).
To be completely honest, I am way out of practice dealing with non OBDII vehicles and I am realizing how completely out of practice I am with not relying on this.

Truck was running great. Started right up.
Stalled once without warning after idling a while, but started right back up.


Moved it to the other side of the driveway and it stalled again without warning.
No sputter or anything, just cut right off.

When attempting to start again it would seem to start but then immediately die again.

Definitely gas in the tank and symptoms are no different when trying to use starting fluid (leads me to believe spark is definitely the issue)

It seemed to be that this was "obviously" the ignition switch so I ordered one.
Installed new switch, same thing.

So then I replaced the ballast resistor, reading somewhere that this may be the issue.
No joy.

I thought I read somewhere about running a hot wire directly to the coil as a diagnostic measure but I can't seem to find that information.

I know this seems completely pedestrian but I am just so defeated at the moment and can't seem to find the proper diagnostic procedures.

If anyone has some suggestions or could point me in the right direction I'd be much obliged.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm thinking IG module may be the next step but it seems like it "TRIES" to start, then dies.

I'm going to test it again as it's been a bit since I tested and ordered ig switch but I am thinking I had power at "Start" but not at "Run"
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Power at coil with ignition on.

After a attempt to start and immediate stall, now no power at coil with ignition on.
 

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Disclaimer I'm horrible about diagnosis stuff however since the spark doesn't seem to be the problem I would check with fuel pressure. I think yours is throttle body injection and the fuel pump in take is likely to have a crack\leak something due to age and there are no replacement pumps for them as far as I've heard. I have a Fast eZ efi gen1 throttle body injection unit and I put an in tank pump from tanksinc.com in my 79'. If needed there should be a way to retrofit one in your tank.
Hope this helps,
Brian

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Discussion Starter #5
Disclaimer I'm horrible about diagnosis stuff however since the spark doesn't seem to be the problem I would check with fuel pressure. I think yours is throttle body injection and the fuel pump in take is likely to have a crack\leak something due to age and there are no replacement pumps for them as far as I've heard. I have a Fast eZ efi gen1 throttle body injection unit and I put an in tank pump from tanksinc.com in my 79'. If needed there should be a way to retrofit one in your tank.
Hope this helps,
Brian

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Thanks for the attempt but unfortunately this is carburated... 2bbl.
I was thinking that if it was fuel related, trying starting fluid should even allow it to run?

Something is weird in that, I tested for power at the coil, tried to start, it started for a brief moment then immediately died, just like a bad ignition switch.

The ICM is cheap and I hear they are common failures so, I went ahead and got one on the way.
 

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I know you said you replaced the ballast resistor, but that sure sounds like your problem. Power in "Start" key position but none at "Run" key position. Did you test voltage going INTO the ballast resistor? With the key in "Run" position you should have battery voltage going in to the BR. If not, time to start looking at dash wiring for loose/broken/corroded connection. I would start an the bulkhead connector. While you are in there, consider the Ammeter Bypass. Save yourself a lot of trouble later.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know you said you replaced the ballast resistor, but that sure sounds like your problem. Power in "Start" key position but none at "Run" key position. Did you test voltage going INTO the ballast resistor? With the key in "Run" position you should have battery voltage going in to the BR. If not, time to start looking at dash wiring for loose/broken/corroded connection. I would start an the bulkhead connector. While you are in there, consider the Ammeter Bypass. Save yourself a lot of trouble later.
I did not test for voltage at the BR but I most certainly will.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I am looking at getting a digital copy of the FSM, today, as I am clearly going to need it!
 

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We just went through a similar issue with a truck I have here. Tested and swapped almost everything, issue turned out to be a bad ground, apparently its a huge issue with these systems. You will want to check for good ground from battery to engine block, engine block to body, battery to body. Then also check distributor to engine block as well, seems silly but corrosion between the distributor body and block can cause problems, also under the ground wires. We also found an end that was barely holding on to the coil as well and fixed that while we were at it. Pickup in the distributor is another place to check if everything else seems good as well as cap and rotor button connections.
 

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Bnewhook that exact issue crossed my mind as well. I owned my truck since 94 and never had an issue with the grounding system until a couple years ago my battery kept getting wicked hot and I went through and cleaned up the grounds and added some new multistrand ones from block to frame rail and problem solved.

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Discussion Starter #10
We just went through a similar issue with a truck I have here. Tested and swapped almost everything, issue turned out to be a bad ground, apparently its a huge issue with these systems. You will want to check for good ground from battery to engine block, engine block to body, battery to body. Then also check distributor to engine block as well, seems silly but corrosion between the distributor body and block can cause problems, also under the ground wires. We also found an end that was barely holding on to the coil as well and fixed that while we were at it. Pickup in the distributor is another place to check if everything else seems good as well as cap and rotor button connections.
I can completely see that. I'll have a look at the grounding points, specifically.

Bnewhook that exact issue crossed my mind as well. I owned my truck since 94 and never had an issue with the grounding system until a couple years ago my battery kept getting wicked hot and I went through and cleaned up the grounds and added some new multistrand ones from block to frame rail and problem solved.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Can never have too many I suppose! Redundancy is great.

Just got the FSM downloaded today so hopefully that will give me some good maps as to where I should be working.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Replaced Ignition module since I heard this is a common failure, anyway.

No change.

I also went through and checked the two grounds at the battery.
I read there is supposed to be a ground from the engine to the fender and one from the distributor to the engine but I don't see either of these?

There's a couple wires that are disconnected around the coil and I just assume this has something to do with the engine being swapped with a later one (I believe it's out of an 87) and they were that way before, when it ran.

Here's also a video of exactly what it's doing:



I know it HAS to be something simple, I just don't know what the heck that is, right now..........

Any ideas?


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Well
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I noticed this cap was deteriorated so I replaced it.

Also noticed these two vacuum lines that appear to be missing a home?
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Discussion Starter #13
I definitely don't have power in the "run" position so I am thinking it may be that circuit itself.

I have the wiring diagram, just trying to decipher where to trace from there.


If I am not mistaken, the "Start" position is essentially the same circuit as the "Run" position with the exception that it also includes power to the starter relay?
But, if they are actually two completely different circuits, then a bad wire in the "run" postion could cause this?


Maybe I'm overthinking it, I typically do....
 

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Discussion Starter #14



THIS leads me to believe it may be the Fusible link.

It confirms what I was thinking by looking at the wiring diagram, that the pnk wire should have power......
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ran + batt to + coil and it started!

Trouble now is, I don't see the fusible link but, this mess looks like where it's "supposed" to be?
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Just joined Dodge talk. I am battling a no start W150 1984 , so have hours and hours of searching and reading. About your 'starts but stops running in run' - it appears to me your vehicle has dual pickups in the distributor. It will have two sets of double wires coming out of the distributor just below the cap. One set in front , one set in back. My vehicle has just one pickup coil. The pickup coil(s) send(s) pluses to the control module which in turn 'fires' the COIL. The dual pickup coil distributors also have a " Dual Pickup Relay" which i think I see in your pictures mounted on the firewall / bulkhead about half way. From my reading , you might have a very simple fix if you have the dual pickup setup. Simply
unplug that "dual pickup module " . Please understand my setup has just one pickup so I'm going just from reading.
One pickup coil is for starting ( changes the timing firing slightly from what I understand ) the other pickup coil is for RUN.. If yours is a dual pickup w/ that module unplug it and see what happens. Good Luck.. Allow me to say these trucks have a 40 pin bulkhead/firewall connector and these are a known FAILURE ISSUE -- all START - RUN - Accessory - Start SWITCH wires go through this 40 pin monster. Total pain in the butt and nearly impossible to get at from inside the cab. Hope it runs for you. ,,Sam C Stone
 
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