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Discussion Starter #1
Well the cold weather is starting to settle in up in the Northeast and I have found an issue with my Hemi. I got a low temp code on my way to work this morning. It was running about normal on the gauge, but the engine light came on. I plugged in my SC and long behold it was the temp. The outside air temp today was 32 degrees F. I tried to clear it, but it would not clear.

Has anyone alse thrown this code with a 180 T-stat?

What temp does the PCM look for when the code is thrown?

It looks like I will have to switch back to my stock T-stat and try to clear the code again.


Any Ideas
 

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lennyz1 said:
Well the cold weather is starting to settle in up in the Northeast and I have found an issue with my Hemi. I got a low temp code on my way to work this morning. It was running about normal on the gauge, but the engine light came on. I plugged in my SC and long behold it was the temp. The outside air temp today was 32 degrees F. I tried to clear it, but it would not clear.

Has anyone alse thrown this code with a 180 T-stat?

What temp does the PCM look for when the code is thrown?

It looks like I will have to switch back to my stock T-stat and try to clear the code again.


Any Ideas
It sounds like you used a t-stat that did not look like the stock t-stat with the bypass blocker on the end? Get a Stant 14168 (64 mm) and grind or sand the outside diameter down to 63 mm and install it. Mine's been in for 18 months with no codes in MI. If you can't find a Stant the 14168 is for a 1993 Mazda 929 with a V6.
 

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dodge3471 said:
It sounds like you used a t-stat that did not look like the stock t-stat with the bypass blocker on the end? Get a Stant 14168 (64 mm) and grind or sand the outside diameter down to 63 mm and install it. Mine's been in for 18 months with no codes in MI. If you can't find a Stant the 14168 is for a 1993 Mazda 929 with a V6.

Long Time no See man!

Any suggestions on keeping the diameter true while grinding the OD to fit? Really big Dial Caliper maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, I did use the 14168.

Reducing the DIA is easy. Just slowly rotate the T-stat on a grinding wheel. Just make sure to keep it even.
 

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Dskirtech said:
Long Time no See man!

Any suggestions on keeping the diameter true while grinding the OD to fit? Really big Dial Caliper maybe?
Hello Dane, I use a belt sander and spin the t-stat by hand but, there is a raised bead that you can use as a guide to make sure that you are removing the material evenly. The stock o-ring gasket is very forgiving so if you're off a little it's not a big deal, it will still seal fine.
 

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lennyz1 said:
No, I did use the 14168.

Reducing the DIA is easy. Just slowly rotate the T-stat on a grinding wheel. Just make sure to keep it even.
That's strange, I'm stumped now. Maybe the t-stat is going bad? The Stant's have a one year warranty?
 

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I did fail a Stant 14168 but, it did not set a code it, would just over shoot 180°F on the initial opening before settling in at 180°F. I replaced it and it's been fine ever since.
 

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HEMI way or no way
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i have the same issue with with napa # 154. upon engine warmup it will go up to 190 then settle back down to 180. i did not think that was normal, and have bought a replacement but have not installed it yet.......
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I noticed today that the temp needle is sitting a little lower than it was. I wonder if the stat is stuck open for some reason.
 

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If you used the stant 35168 64mm dia the only modifaction it needs to sanded filed or grinded to 63mm with is very easly done the rubber gasket is very forgiving i have had this unit in for over a year and i live is the northeast where we have very harsh winters and no code trouble what so ever possibly faulty stat
 

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"Cone Killer"
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Yep... that is what I used, a 35168 and have not had any problems at all... yet it does not get very cold in AZ...lol
 

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Whiskey Bent & Hell Bound
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The Napa #191 is already 63mm, all you have to do is drill a small bleeder hole. Much easier than grinding a larger one down to fit.
 

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Im not famikiar with the napa unit you mention but if it works then we all have another resource i dont understand drilling a bleeder hole part though...but i would suggest that the people using the autozone unit #800-180 discontinue using them as of i think last week they were recalled although autozone is not sayin why
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have had the t-stat in for 3 months now with no problems, but it was over the summer.

I think I just going to put the stock one back in this weekend and my problems should go away.
 

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It seems from what most of us are saying is the the Stant unit seems to work the best ...but as human nature has it we always look for something better great forum guys lets work together to get the most of our investment.
Rick
 
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