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I want to switch my factory fog lights to 110W driving lights. Has anyone ever done this or make a kit for it? I plan on doing it myself, but thought I'd ask for input first. I plan on using the factory wiring (if it'll hold up), or should I run all new 10 guage with a 15 amp switch? I was thinking KC daylighters or something similar with black grills.
 

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You asked. ;)

Fog lights sit way too low for their position to be of any use as driving lights.
Driving lights need to see what's "way" (60-80+mph) ahead of you, fog lights need
to see what's "just" (20-25mph {they see "under" the fog}) ahead of you. If you
mounted driving lights at fog light hight, they'd have to be pointed so high that
the only thing they would be able to see is the north star.
You'd do way better to mount them behind the grill or to get a push bar or bush
guard to mount them to.
 

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The factory fog light bulbs on my 2005 Ram were Sylvania 9006 LL (51 Watt.) This bulb is also used as a low beam bulb for a Chevy four bulb headlight setup. I installed Sylvania 9005 CB (Cool blue 65 watt) high beam bulbs in my fog lights. Bight white lights. I removed these from a previous truck, before I sold it. If I was going to buy bulbs for this I would probably buy Sylvania 9005 ST (Silver Stars.) You could get PIAA's with 130 watt light output (65 watt draw) for about twice the price of the SS's. A small mod to the connector (on the bulb) as well as slightly trimming the top of three keys on the bulb (key opposite connector) was all that was required to make them work. The stock 9006 bulb has one locating lug on the inside of the connector next to the electrical pins. The 9005 65 watt bulb has two locating lugs, that I removed with a cordless drill and a rotozip bit, so the stock truck harness connector would plug right in. No mods to the truck harness connector. The top one of three keys on the bulb needs to be trimmed to about 2/3 of it's original length (cut the left or eleven O'Clock side when viewing from the back or connector side of the bulb) to install the bulb into the light housing. I used diagonal cutters and just nipped away at it until it would install the the housing. The new bulbs draw roughly one amp more each or two amps more total than the stock bulbs. I have not blown any fuses, burned up any relays, or burned up any wiring or connectors. I do not expect to have any problems with the additional two amp draw. I next installed a extra relay (inside power distribution center under hood) that turns on the fog lights whenever the ignition is on for daytime running lights (ex GM guy.) I also have a roadbike and a snowmobile and the lights are always on for increased visability and thats just kind of what I am used to. An added bonus with this setup is the fogs stay on with the high beams. I like that the fogs are on without the park lights during the day and that it's automatic with ignition. A extra switch can be installed in the cab to disable this feature if desired for the occasion that you don't want the fogs on with the ignition. To complement the brighter bulbs you can adjust them up slightly and still illuminate directly in front of the truck. My drivers side lamps were quite a bit lower than the pass. side from the factory so I adjusted them to be the same on both sides. The drivers side headlight was low as well. I weight about 200 lbs, maybe that's why. I set them to be the same height with me in the truck and a full tank of gas.
 
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