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post #1 of 9 Old 03-22-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
Gray2500
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Changing spark plugs on 02 5.7

Hi all, Each time I change the plugs I have had to remove at least one of the pressed in liners that encircles the plugs due to corrosion. Now I have four left but they are the most difficult to get to naturally.



What I'd like to know is if anyone has come up with a simple and easy way to get them out?



I have been doing it with vise grips and muscle with a hammer when there is enough room. This method is backbreaking, slow, and tedious.



But they need to come out before I can get the socket down on the spark plug hex. Yes, I have been blasting the hole out with compressed air to remove as much crud as possible first. Still not enough room for my thin wall socket to reach the spark plug.



Those liners either come out sort of easy or I have to drive a wedge down the outside to try and fold them first and then clamp a vise grip on it and twist, yank, and rock the liner out. The last one I did took about twenty minutes of brute force before it came free. All PB Blaster did was make the area wet.



I'm not sure why they would put those in there anyway. Sure, it keeps a little crud out from around the spark plug base but overall the corrosion that starts between the liner and head welds them in pretty good and then expands them (read that to mean the space inside gets smaller).


I considered welding a bolt that a slide hammer could connect to but there really isn't any room to use one on the rear four.



Any suggestions would be welcome.
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-27-2019, 01:54 PM
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PB Blaster is good to get things unstuck or to lubricate. It's my first go-to when things are just stuck. BUT, when rust is present, Liquid Wrench is the first go-to. If that fails, the ONLY penetrating option left is Seafoam Deep Creep.

I've heard of the PITA events it takes to get those off. To my advantage, the previous owner had already taken those off before I got the truck.

As for the plug removal, it was a combination of socket swivels, socket depths and socket extensions that got the job done. And each plug was a different setup of combination to work at it. 16-plugs too only 4-hours to do on an afternoon. It was a nice day, took my time and watched the kids in the yard and a few beers. Bet it could be done in 2-1/2 hours. All wires, plugs and stuff.

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post #3 of 9 Old 03-27-2019, 04:24 PM
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Do you have an 02 5.9 or an 03 5.7? No such thing as an 02 5.7 from the factory.

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post #4 of 9 Old 03-29-2019, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I have big fingers... it's a 5.9...
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post #5 of 9 Old 03-30-2019, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stev View Post
PB Blaster is good to get things unstuck or to lubricate. It's my first go-to when things are just stuck. BUT, when rust is present, Liquid Wrench is the first go-to. If that fails, the ONLY penetrating option left is Seafoam Deep Creep.

I've heard of the PITA events it takes to get those off. To my advantage, the previous owner had already taken those off before I got the truck.

As for the plug removal, it was a combination of socket swivels, socket depths and socket extensions that got the job done. And each plug was a different setup of combination to work at it. 16-plugs too only 4-hours to do on an afternoon. It was a nice day, took my time and watched the kids in the yard and a few beers. Bet it could be done in 2-1/2 hours. All wires, plugs and stuff.



I haven't gotten around to it yet but I decided that if none of the penetrates make easy work of it I'm going to drag the hot wrench out and take my chances. At least get them dull red to soften them some. I don't know, the head will probably act as a super heat sink and it won't do any good.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-03-2019, 02:57 PM
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I had a couple rusted on real good once, I let let them soak overnight. Then it was a long process of first tightening and then loosening, you just keep slowly working it both directions and eventually it will begin to loosen more than it will tighten. I know it sounds wrong but sometimes when you move it clockwise it will break loose allowing you to turn it counter clockwise and allow the penetrating oil in. Once it is loose then keep lubeing it and working it gently back and forth, the tricky part is to be gentle as to not break it off. It has been a while but I probably spent over an hour getting one plug out.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-04-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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I had a couple rusted on real good once, I let let them soak overnight. Then it was a long process of first tightening and then loosening, you just keep slowly working it both directions and eventually it will begin to loosen more than it will tighten. I know it sounds wrong but sometimes when you move it clockwise it will break loose allowing you to turn it counter clockwise and allow the penetrating oil in. Once it is loose then keep lubeing it and working it gently back and forth, the tricky part is to be gentle as to not break it off. It has been a while but I probably spent over an hour getting one plug out.

Thanks for that info but my problem is with the spark plug 'liners' for lack of a better term. The steel tubes they pressed in around the spark plug opening in the head for whatever reason (cooling?, keep crap out?, just because it looked cool?) The ones in my wife's truck are corroded between the head and that collar/liner thing and as a result the inner space between that liner and the hex of the plug is too tight to get a thin-wall socket on the plug. I've been using vise grips and armstrong power with a hammer to pry those stubborn bastards out. Unfortunately, the ones under the brake booster don't have easy access nor do the ones on the other side. Each one of the easier front ones took a long time (20+ minutes each), and as an older guy, laying on my fat belly over the fender for that long is painful. Just trying to find out if anyone had better luck with an alternative method that I haven't thought of.
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-04-2019, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Gray2500 View Post
Thanks for that info but my problem is with the spark plug 'liners' for lack of a better term. The steel tubes they pressed in around the spark plug opening in the head for whatever reason (cooling?, keep crap out?, just because it looked cool?) The ones in my wife's truck are corroded between the head and that collar/liner thing and as a result the inner space between that liner and the hex of the plug is too tight to get a thin-wall socket on the plug. I've been using vise grips and armstrong power with a hammer to pry those stubborn bastards out. Unfortunately, the ones under the brake booster don't have easy access nor do the ones on the other side. Each one of the easier front ones took a long time (20+ minutes each), and as an older guy, laying on my fat belly over the fender for that long is painful. Just trying to find out if anyone had better luck with an alternative method that I haven't thought of.
Sorry I misunderstood I have never pulled those tubes out on purpose. I know some of them have a seal on the bottom and would guess the tube insulates the plug. I think you are on the right track to remove them, otherwise I don't suppose you have room to put socket on the inside and twist them on the outside. There is a tool for those that is basically an expansion plug with a hook on the end.
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-07-2019, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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I was wondering if they insulated the plugs myself but the way they are simply pressed into the head (steel on steel - at least I think the heads are iron???) it wouldn't create much of an insulation layer. Extra heat sink for the plug or simply a shield from the heat of the headers to protect the plug connection to the wires? Don't have a clue. But aftermarket wires should be able to take whatever heat that rises off the head pipes. Thanks!
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