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post #1 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Talking Quick brake job.

Installed my rear EBC brakes today. Took about 2 hours to do both sides. That's includes stopping to talk to my brother in-law and neighbor.

Remove tire, then the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on. Remove caliper. It's best to use a screw drive the wedge in one of the slots of the rotor to push the pads back some. makes it easier to remove the caliper. Once the caliper is off. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. Leave the pads in the bracket when you remove it. You'll see later.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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post #2 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Talking

Time to unload the old pads and reload the new pads. Set the caliper bracket down on something hard. bolts holes facing up. Now tap down on the old pads. They may not come to easy. You may have to tap them all the way out. Now install the new pads. When you put the new pads in. Set them far apart as possible, and still in the grooves. Makes it easier to install the bracket later.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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post #3 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 05:33 PM
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Do you think ceramic are any good for Off Road use?

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post #4 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Talking

If your rotors have never been off before. You will have 2 or 3 rotor clips on the wheel studs. They put these on when the axle it is assembled, so that the rotors stay in place and don't fall off and kill somebody. You have to remove these, and throw them away. I use a screwdrive to lift one corner up, and then a pair of wire cutters to cut them off.

If your rotors have never been off like mine. Spray some nut buster on the stud holes and around the hub center. Get a BFH and go to it. Beating on the back side of the rotor. As your are have fun, rotate the rotor and keep flogging it. Once it starts to move and only goes so far. The E-brake shoes may be adjusted too tight. Now you have to loosen up that adjustment. It's located under the truck by the driver side door handle. Spray your nut buster on it too. I used a adjustment wrench to hold the bracket in place, and a 13mm to turn the nut. It may not be easy to turn because of the rust on it.

Once you get the rotor off. Wire brush the hub to remove any rust and dirt on it. you don't want to install the rotor back on that with anything that will cause run-out. You can see in the bottom picture how much rust and dirt is laying on the ground.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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post #5 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Talking

Install the rotor with the arrow pointing towards the front, direction of travel. Install the caliper bracket with the pads in it. Once you do that, push the pads in towards the rotor until they touch it. Now install the caliper, and tire. At this point with everything installed on one side. Do NOT start the truck. Slowly push the brake pedal down about half way. Repeat this a couple of times to push the caliper pistons back out.

If you push the pedal all the way down, "depending how many miles you have on it". You "could" wipe out your master cylinder. This is true for vehicles that are HIGH mileage. What happens is that with use. The bore in the master cylinder wears. It's used to only traveling so far. Now when the pedal gets pushed to the floor. The o-rings now have to go over the wear lip in the bore. Sometimes this will tear the o-rings. I've seen this happen.

Now with the one side button back up. Do the other side. When you get that side done. Now you have to readjust your E-brakes as the last thing to do. Tighten back up on the adjuster You may have to do this a couple of times to get the feel you want on the E-brake pedal. Adjust the nut, and try the E-brake pedal. Repeat until it feels right. BUT don't get it too tight. I spin my tires by hand when I'm adjusting it. I listen for sound and feel.

When I get my pads in for the front. I'll post that too.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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post #6 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 06:38 PM
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wow... your pads n rotor look like chit! glad your doing them!!! =)

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post #7 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 06:50 PM
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Good write up. Thanks. Waiting to hear reviews now.

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post #8 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 07:40 PM
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Good write up. Thanks...
x2 Thanks for spending the time to post pics and explanation. This is definitely a good candidate for the FAQ list...paired with a front brake job, of course!


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post #9 of 28 Old 09-03-2011, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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One thing I forgot to mention. Before you install the caliper back on. Use 2, 4" C clamps to push the pistons back in the caliper. Why 2? If you just use 1. You will push the other piston out of the caliper. Now you got yourself a mess.

PWOC #53
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Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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post #10 of 28 Old 09-04-2011, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by RustyPW08 View Post
Installed my rear EBC brakes today. Took about 2 hours to do both sides. That's includes stopping to talk to my brother in-law and neighbor.

Remove tire, then the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on. Remove caliper. It's best to use a screw drive the wedge in one of the slots of the rotor to push the pads back some. makes it easier to remove the caliper. Once the caliper is off. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket on. Leave the pads in the bracket when you remove it. You'll see later.
Nice! You'll really like them.

Not to bust your stones, but I had my dealer tech friend install mine on the side while he replaced the rear calipers (they were sticking). All four took him about an hour with the caliper, and bled all four, too. $100. I guess doing this stuff day in, day out, helps.

Anyway, how does it feel? Much better stopping power?

Did you ever notice that after Monday and Tuesday the calendar says "WTF"?
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Auto, pw, pdl, p-seats, tow package, RER touchscreen Nav/Sat with UConnect & v3 Lockpick (reverted back to the stock REC with a Lockpick and rear camera, steering wheel audio controls, sliding rear window, premium cloth, heated seats, adj pedals, Tow mirrors.
Mods: Mopar Rock Rails w/Carr steps, Toyo OC M/T 35x12.5x17, Mopar "T"-Linkage, Carli Trackbar, Bilstein 5100's, new larger steering box, Spicer front axle U-Joints, Carli Front Diff Protector, Custom Rockcrusher rear diff, behind the grill light mount bar. Carli/Bilstein 7100 Low Mount Damper, K&N Air Filter (stock intake), Silverstar Headlights, Ultrastar Turns & Fogs, KC 2x6 55 watt rev floods w/Defiant bracket, RetroSolutions' 12W LED reverse, brakes and high mount lights, and EBC Slotted/Dimpled Rotors EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, MyGig RER Low Speed CAN Bus Nav/Sat/UConnect and MyGig Lockpick Adaptor w/3 cameras.
Sitting in Garage: RAD-1 Digital Inclinometer, Ram SRT10 A-Pillar, 55w HIDs headlights, King 2.5 with stainless shafts, shock towers, new Carli 3" coil and new Carli stabilizer. Yea, now to find time and money to install this stuff.
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post #11 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Got a day off to finish the front brakes. And I got another set of front pads. UPS lost 2 pads out of the box the first time around, so I had to wait for the replacements.

1st and 2nd pics. I find it easier to work on the front brakes with the wheels turned some. It's easier to get to the bolts.
3rd pic. I use a screw driver to pry the pads back some. This makes it easier to remove the caliper.
4th pic. I alway put the calipers on something like a jack stand. I don't let the calipers hang by the hose.
Attached Images
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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Heaven's Gate, The Grand Conjunction, The Pleiadeans Landings, Y2K, The Winch Mob Banning, The Mayan Apocalypse, and some other covert stuff. Future ISIS killer!
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post #12 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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1st pic. Whithe caliper off. Now remove the caliper bracket with the old pads still in place.
2nd pic. Now remove old pads and install new pads into the caliper bracket. Put the new pads at the edge of the bracket when you install them, Also remove your old rotor and install your new rotor.
3rd pic. Install your caliper bracket. And push your pads against the rotor now.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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post #13 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 05:43 PM
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I usually use one of the old brake pads to push both pistons in with one c-clamp. Also could you let us know how those new ones are performing compared to the old ones. I have been thinking about replacing mine with those.

Thanks and nice write up


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post #14 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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1st and 2nd pic. I use 2, 4" C clamps to push the pistons back in the caliper. Push one piston in, then the other. Shouldn't take to much pressure to push them in. If you feel you need to use alot of force to push them in. Chances are the piston is sticking. If it is sticking. You either need to rebuild the caliper or replace it. Some feel the it's just easiesr to replace the caliper as to rebuild it. Also if it is sticking. NOW is the time to do something about it. NOT later. You WILL kill your pads and rotor because of it the caliper dragging.
3rd pic. All button up. When install the caliper. Should you push the 2 bolt slides back out of the way for the caliper to fit back on the bracket. If you are having a hard time trying to start the 2 caliper bolts back in the bracket. You have to move the rotor alittle to get eveything lined up, as the weight of the rotor will cause it not to sit straight on the hub. Use 2 open ended lug nuts on the wheel studs to keep the rotor straight on the hub.

With nobody to bother me today. It only took about 15 minutes per side. The hardest part was jacking up the PW, and putting jack stands under it.
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PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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Heaven's Gate, The Grand Conjunction, The Pleiadeans Landings, Y2K, The Winch Mob Banning, The Mayan Apocalypse, and some other covert stuff. Future ISIS killer!
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"Moab '10, '12, '14",
"Rausch Creek-Spring, Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14"


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post #15 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemigoblin View Post
I usually use one of the old brake pads to push both pistons in with one c-clamp. Also could you let us know how those new ones are performing compared to the old ones. I have been thinking about replacing mine with those.

Thanks and nice write up
I like to use 2 C-clamps. It's easier to tell which piston is sticking, if one of them is sticking. Most of the time if a piston is sticking. It's the bottom one. Low point in the system. That's where the water collects at.

PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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Survivor of The Cold War,
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Heaven's Gate, The Grand Conjunction, The Pleiadeans Landings, Y2K, The Winch Mob Banning, The Mayan Apocalypse, and some other covert stuff. Future ISIS killer!
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"Moab '10, '12, '14",
"Rausch Creek-Spring, Fall '11, Spring '12, Summer '13, Summer '14"


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post #16 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 10:53 PM
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Great write up. How do you like them? And have you been able to tell a difference in gas mileage with the hubs?
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post #17 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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With my wife's passing. The PW is no longer my DD. Been using the Jeep GC for that. But I got to break in the brakes before I go to Rausch Creek tho. So I'm going to be putting on some mileage in the next few days. So then I'll get a better idea of what's what.

PWOC #53
2008 POWER WAGON RC
Sequentially Number #08-1505,
Inferno Red, Automatic
Mods to the PW;
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Nerffed Mopar RockRails, Wheel Well Liners, Bushwacker Pocket Fender Flairs, Extang Tonneau Cover, Garvmin dezl 560LMT GPS, Power Wagon Winch Kit, Line X Ultra Bed Liner, PIAA Headlight Bulbs, PIAA 580 Driving Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 Fog Lights (135 watt), PIAA 520 ATP Off-Road Lights (135 watt), Locker Bypass, Modifed Rockcrusher Diff Covers, Mopar Utility Bed Rails and Tool Box, Warn Winch Wireless Remote Control, "el-cheapo" Inclinometer, Airaid CAI, Winch TPS Bypass, Had 35" Cooper STT's now 35" Toyo's, Mopar Spare Tire Lock, 'T' Steering Linkage, Modifed PSC Steering Brace, P3 Brake Controller, Modifed Fusion "mall crawler" rear bumper, PIAA 1500 Back-Up Lights, 1Ton HEMI Tranny Cooler, Leer 100XR Bed Cap, Factory Tow Mirrors, CenterLine Rims 17x9-5.25 BS, Mag-Hytec Tranny Pan, AutoMeter Gauges, PSC Extreme Hydro Assist Steering, Carli Track Bar, Carli Ball-Joints, Dynatrac FreeSpin Hubs, Snorkel, RCV Axles, EBC Pads & Rotors, Aluminess Front Bumper, BIG Pul-Pal and it's own body bag!, 60" Extreme Hi-lift Jack, and more riggin' equipment, Carli Long Travel Air Bags, Bilstein 7100 Shocks - Carli Valving, MORE STUFF COMIN', TTI headers, Somebody's long arm, 7.2L MOTOR
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Mods to me; Ti hip replacement. Zerk fitting in knee. Now it's gets greased more than some guys front drive shafts. I've been Used, Abused and Recycled!
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Heaven's Gate, The Grand Conjunction, The Pleiadeans Landings, Y2K, The Winch Mob Banning, The Mayan Apocalypse, and some other covert stuff. Future ISIS killer!
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"Moab '10, '12, '14",
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post #18 of 28 Old 09-11-2011, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyPW08 View Post
With my wife's passing. The PW is no longer my DD. Been using the Jeep GC for that. But I got to break in the brakes before I go to Rausch Creek tho. So I'm going to be putting on some mileage in the next few days. So then I'll get a better idea of what's what.
You'll definitely like the brakes. I guarantee it! Day and night difference.

I'm curious about those hubs, too.

Did you ever notice that after Monday and Tuesday the calendar says "WTF"?
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Power Wagon Owner's Club #110
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Auto, pw, pdl, p-seats, tow package, RER touchscreen Nav/Sat with UConnect & v3 Lockpick (reverted back to the stock REC with a Lockpick and rear camera, steering wheel audio controls, sliding rear window, premium cloth, heated seats, adj pedals, Tow mirrors.
Mods: Mopar Rock Rails w/Carr steps, Toyo OC M/T 35x12.5x17, Mopar "T"-Linkage, Carli Trackbar, Bilstein 5100's, new larger steering box, Spicer front axle U-Joints, Carli Front Diff Protector, Custom Rockcrusher rear diff, behind the grill light mount bar. Carli/Bilstein 7100 Low Mount Damper, K&N Air Filter (stock intake), Silverstar Headlights, Ultrastar Turns & Fogs, KC 2x6 55 watt rev floods w/Defiant bracket, RetroSolutions' 12W LED reverse, brakes and high mount lights, and EBC Slotted/Dimpled Rotors EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, MyGig RER Low Speed CAN Bus Nav/Sat/UConnect and MyGig Lockpick Adaptor w/3 cameras.
Sitting in Garage: RAD-1 Digital Inclinometer, Ram SRT10 A-Pillar, 55w HIDs headlights, King 2.5 with stainless shafts, shock towers, new Carli 3" coil and new Carli stabilizer. Yea, now to find time and money to install this stuff.
Future Mods: Behind the grill Offroad LEDs, SRT 6.1 cam, Carli Deaver leafs, & balljoints.

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post #19 of 28 Old 09-12-2011, 03:09 PM
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Rusty you have done so many mods yourself to your truck I think it's time you opened up RUSTY'S POWER WAGON OFF ROAD SHOP. You would get my business.

2008 Dodge POWER WAGON
Power Wagon= 12000lb Warn winch, Electronic Disconnecting Swaybar, Front and rear lockers, 4.56 gears

Upgrades= BDS 4" long arm lift, JBA Shorty headers, Custom MBRP Y-Pipe, MBRP Custom exhaust, Stainless Steel front and rear brake lines, Thuren Adjustable track bar with Fox Racing Steering Stabilizer, Thuren/Atlas custom leafs, Thuren 6" Coil Springs, Thuren Adjustable Shackles, Redhead steering box, Carli front diff guard, Airflow Snorkel, Vent Tubes Extended, Custom Rock Rails(made by me), Custom rear tube bumper(made by me), Rockcrusher rear diff guard, Bushwacker pocket flares, Trimmed fenders, DT Profab Steering Box Brace, Borgeson steering shaft, 1 Ton Tranny cooler, Mickey Thompson 17x9 Sidebiter Wheels, Goodyear MTRs with Kevlar 37x12.5, Road Armour front bumper trimmed for extra clearance with lightbar and 4 KC lights and 4 Piaa's, Procomp Explorer Lights mounted on backrack, Wireless winch remote, Tints, clear cab lights, WeatherTech Floor Mats, HighLift Jack, Tool box, RBP gas cover(piece of junk). Line-xed from head to toe. More straps, shackles and pulleys than I actually need.
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post #20 of 28 Old 09-12-2011, 04:08 PM
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Rusty you have done so many mods yourself to your truck I think it's time you opened up RUSTY'S POWER WAGON OFF ROAD SHOP. You would get my business.
^^X2

Great work Russ.


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'05 Silver Power Wagon: # 869 All Stock except for: Custom Rear Bed Clearance Mod, Custom High Clearance Hitch, Custom Front and Rear Tubular Bumpers, Airflow 3rd Gen Snorkel, Diablo Sport Predator 93 Octane Performance Tune, Performance Trans Tune+Quick Adjust, Muff- 40 Series Flow Master-Dumped, Mopar Rock Rails (that I'm going to get RUSTY to nerf for me)
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lots of plans-notso lotso money
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