How To: Build regular cab subwoofer enclosures - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
Notices

Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 3 Old 06-17-2009, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
stoploss
Registered User
 
stoploss's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Tx
Posts: 316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
How To: Build regular cab subwoofer enclosures

2004 (3rd gen) Dodge Ram REGULAR CAB.

This will be a How-To for 2 simple sealed enclosures for 12” subwoofers in a regular cab 3rd gen Dodge Ram.

First and foremost, I am using 2 Diamond Audio D3 12” subwoofers.

The recommended air space from Diamond Audio for a single sealed enclosure is 1.5 cubic ft, these enclosures will be 1.19 cf which is a little smaller but won’t damage the drivers (woofers). I have designed the boxes to fit snugly behind the seats and still have room between them for the amp and a tray.

Dimensions for each enclosure are the same:
• Width: 15”
• Height: 22.5”
• Top depth: 6”
• Bottom depth: 11:
**Keep in mind to account for the 5/8” when measuring cuts**
I am using 5/8” MDF(medium density fiberboard), $17 from Home Depot.


Tools and supplies:
T-Square ruler

Circular Saw with fine tooth blade

Electric Nailer
Wood Glue

Jigsaw
Dremel with Router attachment

Orbital Sander
1” framing nails
Tape measure
Compass
Pencil

THE BUILD

The order of the pieces will determine what measurements to make. I will start by cutting the back piece in full W and H (15”X22.5”)


Next, I will have the two side pieces fit into the back and front, the top and bottom will fit inside the two sides, front and back.
Cut the two sides next. Since they will fit inside of the front and back you need to subtract 5/8” from both the top and bottom depths. 5/8”=.625”, multiplied by 2=1.25”
TD: 6”-1.25”=4.75”
BD: 11”-1.25”=9.75”
Height will not be affected so stick with 22.5”

Once you have the sides cut, you will need to make sure the front of the top piece has the correct angle to make it flush with the sides.


Measurements for the top piece will have 5/8”(.625”) subtracted from ALL sides.
W: 15”-1.25”=13.75”
Depth: 6”-1.25”=4.75”
And the front must be cut at the angle specified before. This is what it will look like if cut correctly.


The same goes for the bottom piece, .625” from all sides.
W:15”-1.25”=13.75”
Depth: 11”-1.25=9.75”
Look familiar, these are the same measurements of depth for the two side pieces.

The front pieces gets cut last, and use the length of the two side pieces as your guide since the angle will make the length longer than 22.5”. When all fitted together it ended up being 23.25”.
Here are all of the pieces


I highly recommend assembling the pieces before securing with glue and nails to assure you don’t need to recut any piece.


GLUE AND NAILS

I am using wood glue, however ran into a problem with a poor cut so will be using extra wood glue to fill the gap.


Apply a continuous line of wood glue to the piece to be attached.

Assemble the two pieces and secure with the framing nails

I spaced the nails out about 2” apart.


Just for safe measure I verified the two pieces with a 90degree ruler.

Alright now the same method applies to the other side piece and the top and bottom pieces.

I pushed in excess glue into areas that didn’t fit up real tight, be sure to wipe away any excess after this.


The semi-completed boxes


CUTTING THE SUB HOLES

This portion is quite important to assure that the sealed enclosures stay sealed.
The Diamond webpage states that the diameter of the cut should be 11.1”. I am going to measure 11” to compensate for imperfections.
I have decided to make the sub 3” from the bottom of the box. I will show you the first hole completed to help explain the pics for the second cut and how to measure it.


Measure 3” from the bottom of the board and make a mark.
The center of the hole will be the center of the entire width of the board. The width is 15” so make a mark at 7.5”

Now from the 3” mark measure up 11” towards the top of the board. This will be a guide for the circle line.
In order to meet up the center of the height with the 7.5” width mark divide 11” in half and meet the 5.5” up with the 7.5”

Now you will need the compass. Spread it out to 5.5” and place it in the center that you previously measured.


This is the template you will use to cut.


I am going to free hand the dremel so I have drilled guide holes around the circle to help speed up the router. I had to make 3 separate cuts each at Ό” depth at a time to complete the cut.





Without using commercial tools, your hole may not be perfect, however a little sanding will smooth out any rough spots and the seal will still be good.

To seal your enclosure, apply a bead of wood blue liberally to all seams. Although some say it’s ok to use, I typically stay away from silicone caulk and liquid nails to prevent any deterioration of the subwoofer.

Now you will need to cut the holes for the speaker terminals. I have placed them on opposing sides of the two boxes. This will allow both terminals to face inward when put in the cab.
I have opted for terminals that will accept banana posts. I don’t have pics currently of the banana posts but will post some as my project nears completion.

Measure the inside of the terminal and measure out a diagram on the box. I drilled holes in each of the corners to allow the jigsaw blade in to cut.





While the glued seams are drying, I chose to countersink the finishing nails so I can apply wood filler. This will allow you to sand the box and there should be no sign of any nails or screws.



2004 RCSB Hemi Sport-True duals, S/C Cortex, K&N drop in
2006 VTX 1800F-V&H Bigshots
2010 Mustang GT (wife's ride)-Corsa exhaust, SCT Xcal3

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Reg. Cab Truck Club #3
Trucks and Guns #49
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi
stoploss is offline  
Quick Reply
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 3 Old 06-17-2009, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
stoploss
Registered User
 
stoploss's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Tx
Posts: 316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Now that the glue has dried I will get the front piece ready for assembly.
First I need to mark the holes where the sub will attach to the front piece.
I had intended on using tee nuts, however there is minimal room for them so I will just attach the sub with coarse thread screws.

I removed the rubber seal from around the sub to expose the holes to mark.


I raised the front piece off of the ground with plastic cups.


This allows me to place the sub into the hole and have the front piece support it.


Now mark the holes with a pencil


Front piece with marked holes


Front piece with holes drilled


Place front piece on enclosure to verify fit before glue and nails.


Fit the piece on the glue then nail


Just as before, secure with the nailer and countersink the nails to apply wood filler.

Both boxes completed minus the Line-X. I will leave the speaker terminals and subs out until it is line-X’d. All that is really left to do is final sanding of the boxes and applying a bead of silicone to the front piece to ensure the seal.


Here are some pics with the boxes positioned in the truck. I have yet to decide on how I will secure them however will explain once I do.





I am placing the amp on an amp rack that will be covered by a tray that will also be sprayed with bedliner. I will be attaching the amp rack to the floor of the truck with a self tapping screw. There are 4 threaded rods that will elevate the tray above the amp rack, this will be secured with nuts, washers and lock washers:





The front corners of the tray weren’t going to jive with the seats, so I lanced them off with a jigsaw…..last minute idea that worked pretty well.



Here’s the tray all sanded up ready for bedliner:



Here are some pics with the measurements of the amp rack and tray:


The notch for the seat belt assembly:


This height can be adjusted based on where you place the nuts on the threaded rods:




I used T-nuts to secure the amp to the amp rack:


The enclosures and trays with ArmorThane:






The amp rack installed with 1 self tapping screw:


The boxes installed into the truck, everything is ready for final installation.


I will end the How-To for now. The main idea is outlined and all that’s left now is the appearance and hookup. The great thing about doing this yourself is individuality. You can finish the box however you please. I will use Line-X because I don’t see that everyday.

All that’s left at this point is to have the subs installed. I chose to keep the stock head unit, so I needed a line out converter. To kill two birds with one stone, I chose to use the AudioControl Epicenter Plus. It’s like the previous Epicenter but includes a line out converter.

Here’s the knob for the Epicenter Plus installed in nook:

Subs installed:



Assembled upper tray:




Above shots of the tray:


2004 RCSB Hemi Sport-True duals, S/C Cortex, K&N drop in
2006 VTX 1800F-V&H Bigshots
2010 Mustang GT (wife's ride)-Corsa exhaust, SCT Xcal3

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Reg. Cab Truck Club #3
Trucks and Guns #49
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi
stoploss is offline  
post #3 of 3 Old 06-17-2009, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
stoploss
Registered User
 
stoploss's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Tx
Posts: 316
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)


All right, to recap, I started with this:

And approximately $90 later:


And that’s all she wrote!!

If you have any questions or need any other pics, let me know.

END

2004 RCSB Hemi Sport-True duals, S/C Cortex, K&N drop in
2006 VTX 1800F-V&H Bigshots
2010 Mustang GT (wife's ride)-Corsa exhaust, SCT Xcal3

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Reg. Cab Truck Club #3
Trucks and Guns #49
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi
stoploss is offline  
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to use most of our features, you must first register.
Please enter your desired User Name, your Email Address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
The registration process requires you to activate your membership by following a link in an E-Mail that will be sent to you immediately upon completing this form. You must enter a valid email address or you will not receive this activation code and you will NOT be registered. Your E-Mail address is NOT publicly available to anyone as policy.

AOL E-MAIL USERS: Please click HERE for important info pertaining to your e-mail address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How-To: Build a sub enclosure for a Regular Cab Ram stoploss 3G Dodge RAM - General Miscellaneous Articles 2 11-06-2007 10:34 AM
Center Console Subwoofer Enclosures jhellemn Mobile Audio & Electronics Talk 3 01-05-2005 04:49 PM
Clarion Camouflage Custom Subwoofer Enclosures CHEAP!!! GlassBlower 1G Dodge Durango General Talk 2 04-06-2003 07:36 PM
Clarion Camouflage Custom Subwoofer Enclosures CHEAP!!! GlassBlower Mobile Audio & Electronics Talk 1 04-02-2003 09:41 AM
Clarion Camouflage Custom Subwoofer Enclosures RAM MAN Mobile Audio & Electronics Talk 0 10-14-2002 09:30 PM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome