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Crossover steering help

5K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  maximus1000 
#1 ·
Hey i've been hearing about this "HD" upgrade for awhile now with hardly any info ever given about it in the threads. I searched came back with a few hits no info. I have just found on the net they say the 98 and 99 1 ton's had crossover steering instead of the inverted Y setup. My whole Y setup is junk right now and before i go putting money into fixing this im wondering how much it would be to do the crossover if not cheaper.

Heres what i need to know

What truck is this setup from? year? diesels? 2500? 3500?

Did they use hiem joints?

What modifications need to be done? I am already running a 17" wheel so i dont believe there would be a clearence issue on pass side with the 2 bars stacked.

What are the different components of crossover called?

I understand the steering damper/stabilizer isnt provided for on this setup, but dont really care.

Dodge oem parts best?

Thanks guys lets get this straightened out here i know that there are many others that would be interested in this as well.
 
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#2 ·
you are working w/ a 2000. so from there are options. heres what i would suggest. replace the pit arm w/ one from pre 2000. being the 99& down have a diff taper hole size for the drag link. order the steering for a 99 3500. your done! modify the steering dampener mount at you leisure. the swap out cost me $175 off ebay from world suspension.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Personally...I'd not mess with the pitman arm unless you need to install one. They're a total PITA to remove.
The correct TRE is availible (actually it's the same as the stock 1500) to bolt to the drag link TRE for 2000 and up rams.
While you can buy the pieces off of greed-bay, I'd suggest MOOG pieces if your budget can stand the strain. The quality is unmatched, and made in the USA to boot.

Probably oughta clear up some of your questions. "Crossover" steering was found on some 98 and 99 Rams. I can't tell you if there was a specific motor or axle that denoted the installation. The term comes from the design where the axle tie rods "crossover" from wheel to wheel and are connected to the pitman arm by a whole seperate tie rod/draglink assembly rather than the "Y" setup which combines the draglink and rh outer tie rod.

The setup isn't hiem joints but is very streetable. It isn't any "beefier" than the stock system, but most everyone notices that theres a big difference in how your truck steers. You also don't have to keep reseting your toe-in when or if you lift your truck.

I'm not sure how you missed the threads on this, but there are several, including my install.
 
#4 ·
i just worked over a buddies 01 cummins 2500. in one day, we switched out the pit arm, tie rod ends for the 99 1 ton stuff, solid steel adjustable bar and bracket, and a steering box brace. aligned it myself and now he is very happy. he can let go of the wheel. not a difficult job if you have the right tools!
 
#5 ·
I have 99 dodge 3500 steering on my truck for a while. Worked great with up to 9" of lift. After I did my 14" lift that was a different story (had go get a thuren kit). The moog stuff is worth it so I would go with them. Pitman arms are not a pain if you have the right tools (pitman arm puller).
 
#6 ·
i really have to do this mod

Eventually im going to buy one of those whole steering kits off ebay with the steering column shaft, brace, new gearbox. Not sure though my pitman arm seal on my gearbox was leaking stopped it with lucas stop leak ps fluid, but that most likely means my sector shaft has worn.
 
#7 ·
Anyone have any links to all this stuff? how about a pic of the crossover sterring so we can compare it to what we have?? Thanks!
 
#8 ·
:huh:
 

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#9 ·
#10 ·
sweet, thanks. Hmm says that that setup may increase bump steer. Notice any difference on yours?

-he also has a good idea on the wheelbearings.
 
#11 ·
ive notice very little bumb and no steering stab....its not a true x over as in stacking the 2 but very close....drag link fix to the knuckle its to the tie rod....thuren sales a true x over but you can never go back to TRE'S unless you swap out knuckles....great idear on the bearings....hes got alot of miles on them and still going strong....
 
#13 ·
mad mike it looks like junk the draglink from pitman arm goes to pass tie rod end at the knuckle. The other centerlink? goes from drivers side tie rod end and spans 2/3's the distance before another end goes into the draglink to pitman. The HD conversion seems more logical from all points of view, but one of the big advantages is the toe doesnt change when you turn. With the inverted y setup it actually allows toe to change which cant be good for tire wear and all that good stuff. Not to mention the flex the y setup must have.

Most ppl that do the HD setup dont even run a steering dampner/stabilizer and say nothing about bumpsteer. I dont see how you could go wrong with this upgrade
 
#14 ·
I want to start with I am not saying any of this is a bad Idea but why did Dodge only run the crossover for 2 years then abandon it? Was it bad or did they come up with something different on the 2000 and up?

Just asking.

If they came up with a new set up for the 3rd gens what does it look like?
 
#22 ·
No one knows why Mopar does the things it does. SInce the crossover stuff was only on HD rams and never on 1500's, Dodge probably decided it was more cost effective to have one system.
There may have been an issue with the heavier trucks, which required a different steering setup or... as those who own a crossover equipped truck suggest, it is easier to maintain and adjust. That would be a fleet managers dream.
 
#15 ·
a while back ron petersons 4x4 off road magazine had a write up on doing this same conversion on the 3rd gens. Thats where i read the toe changes when turning with the inverted y setup. I will see if i can find it on their website.

but mine is the a 2000 and it has the inverted y setup. I am unsure what the deal was with doing away with it again was as well. I read somewhere that the hd setup was on heavy half tons as well as light 2500's. I dont know if that is true as i have never heard nor seen of a heavy half or a light duty 2500 from dodge
 
#16 ·
#18 ·
i run the 1 ton conversion on my 1500. love it. the TREs are so easy to align! i have no need for the steering dampener. it always feels like the truck is going the way its pointed. that y set up is tricky to control. i would hazard a guess at why that 1 ton cross over was phased out; unless you have a "rock" solid track bar, i would imagine the cross over system could suffer. once the track bar ball bearing gets beat to a suffering, quivering, wiggle, which they always do in four years or less, the tie rod ends begin to take the impact loads. the y system seems to weasel out of its responsibilities of control and allow the axle more flex. i dont like it. to me the 1 ton is a win win situation. bigger, stronger, better and precise.
 
#20 ·
well yours shouldnt look like that.

Sul's is a true x-over notice how the draglink and center attach at the steering knuckle top and bottom. The taper is drilled out to accomodate a 3/4 bolt. If you have the T setup from the HD your draglink would attach about 6-8" away from the knuckle and still have a tie rod end. I believe sul's setup uses hiem joints or something.

Sul's setup is badass and expensive.
 
#23 ·
mad mike i know there is alot of info being thrown at you here, but if you have a solid bar that crosses the steering knuckle then you have the T setup which is a good setup. THe inverted Y is the junk that i have and most others as well.

Sulz has a thuren true x-over setup. So you still have a decent steering assembly.

Ddog has a valid point in the commonality area. Cheaper for them to produce one setup, but still makes you wonder why they used what seems to be the worse of the 2 setups.
 
#25 ·
yes....what?

heres mine...:

-not the puddle isnt oil, its from my ac :)



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