i was on a field road the other night and when i went to turn around i got stuck i put it into N and then put it into 4WD and i still was spinning so i punched it and got out so i was wondering if it was working and i was that stuck or i have a big problem.?
my truck is doing the exact same thing but i have a 3/8 in hose coming off the top of the actuator not the round casing but it is about a foot long and has wat i think could be a vent cap on it or something? is that supposed to be there or is it supposed to go somewhere?
i am with maximus2000- where can i get this one piece axle? i still have my half ton axles, but i am not using them until i can bypass the slip yoke CAD crap all together. i replaced mine about 10 times in 6 years before i threw it out and got a HP D44 out of a 79ford with lock outs- then up to the rockwells on there now. but like my sig says- i have been known to abuse a 4x4 since i got my drivers license.
--growing, you can get the one piece axle and even the hub conversion kit from EMS offroad (www.emsoffroad.com). Its a bit pricy, the one piece axle is 225, which isnt bad at all considering a replacement Inner (from the 2 piece) axle form the dealership is 600 bucks. The hub conversion is a bit more, its 800 bucks, but you would have true lock in/out hubs. Just an option, maybe not the best.
Hey Ive noticed a few times that when I engage 4-low I slams violently into gear.... Am I doing something wrong? Every other 4x4 ive had has been push button, and they shift smooth. My dodge shifts rough as hell into 4-low mosty, 4-high is pretty smooth... I know with these systems you have to be rolling a little.
IIRC, the method to get into 4 low was to roll into it. but the 4 lo had to be stopped for proper engagement. But since i left my dakota at the dealer for my new Ram, and haven't needed 4 lo in the durango, memory has been blurry.
when I use 4Lo ... well shift in to it my trans is in N so i dont feel anything. It dose make a loud clunk. I then stop and put into gear. I also still back up after i shift back to 2wd... just force of habit but seems to help not break anything.
Also, unless you have twin sticked your case or added locking hubs you are in 3wd not 2wd. the driver side wheel can still pull and you can still shatter the ears off the shaft under hard steering and some throttle. The cad is just the pass side not having vac or the cable pulled dose not disconnect the front drive shaft! just a heads up.
Does someone mind just running though the steps to get into 4 low? Im not new to it, it just seems that my truck is different compared to my other 4wds. I go rolling slow (1-3mph) in 4hi, then shift to N on the trans, then take it into 4lo from 4hi... just so damn violent when going to 4lo. I want to make sure Im doin this right...
EDIT: sorry didnt see the post above me... just makin sure what I said was right?
My truck slams in to 4wd very violently - This isnt supposed to happen. My inner axle is worn so under torque its pops out of 4wd, vacuum pressure is good and I replaced the fork so thats all good. Once it torques off the collar, it aligns agan it makes a horrible metal on metal slamming sound as it re-engages. This also isnt good for the splines where the axles mate. I wish there was some way to support the axles in there.. seems that would help out a lot...
Also, theres a plastic bushing in there that goes between the two axles (looks kinda like a top hat) that I think is supposed to keep them aligned.. that seems to wear out really really fast on mine..
if you want to eliminate the vacuum motor theres an easy fix, pull the motor and engage the shift fork then tack weld it in place, take shift fork off and install vacuum motor, wala you now have a permanent locked axle
The 4x2 range is for use on any road surface at
any time.
The 4x4 and 4 Lo ranges are for off road use only.
They are not for use on hard surface roads. The only
exception being when the road surface is covered by
ice and snow.
The low range reduction gear system is operative
in 4 Lo range only. This range is for extra pulling
power in off road situations. Low range reduction
ratio is 2.72:1.
SHIFTING
The synchronizer components allow the transfer
case to be shifted between the 2H and 4H operating
ranges while the vehicle is in motion. The vehicle
must have the transmission placed in NEUTRAL, or
the clutch depressed in the case of a manual transmission,
and be moving less than 2-3 MPH when
shifting into the 4L operating range.
SHIFTING
The synchronizer components allow the transfer
case to be shifted between the 2H and 4H operating
ranges while the vehicle is in motion. The vehicle
must have the transmission placed in NEUTRAL, or
the clutch depressed in the case of a manual transmission, and be moving less than 2-3 MPH when
shifting into the 4L operating range.
if you are shifting into 4 low, you dont want stress on the gears, thats why they say 2-3 mph in neutral, that way it clicks right in. -gently rolling so the free play in the gears allows it to mesh.
Thats what I figured... I just read it too hard. I saw that it said under 2-3 mph, but Ive been rolling slow to begin with, so no worries Ill just keep doin what I normally do. Thanks
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