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post #1 of 12 Old 08-01-2011, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Building a 427!

So have i come to a conclusion. I will be building a 360/427 stroker ! no i dont have the cash. BUT i believe that the first step is to obviously do A LOT of research and thats why i come to you my fellow ramers . I am not an expert and i dont know everything about engines (especially the high tech specs) But engines are my life! and every opportunity that i get to learn about engines, i take advantage and it dont take long to understand. So please have patience and excuse any noob question that i would have (especialy with the hi-tech specs) its never to soon to learn.

-What i'm looking for is a STREETABLE monster. how much HP/Tq? not sure yet. maybe in the upper 500-600 to the rear with out enforced induction but capable of handleing it (about 15psi IF its possible)
-will i be using the truck as a "truck"? No. I understand that once i have that much power than being able to pull/haul MAY not be efficiant.
-What do i want for powerband? I want a bit more Tq than Hp in the middle and upper rpms (but than again with that amount of power i dont think it would really matter lol)
-Drivetrain? lets not worry about that yet.

Lets start with the bottom end shall we?

I have been looking at shortblocks quite a bit and I'm thinking of getting one from MOPAR's Catalog (unless there are better ones out there)
I know i want a 427 "MAGNUM" and there are 2 ways to get a 427 out of a 360 but im not sure which one to get?
1. Stroke of 4.25" with a 4.00" Bore
2. Stroke of 4.00" with a 4.125" Bore
how do they affect Hp and Tq?
which one would be better? (or does it depend on the top end?)
Whats exactly is a siamese bore?? is it good for a STREETABLE truck?(something about having more meat in between bores and not having water jackets???)

I will be asking more and more questions regarding to the short block (pistons, rings, connecting rods etc.) as we progress. I really do apreciate ALL of your 2 valuebal pennies if there are any concerns or questions, FIRE AWAY! and thank you in advance

Current Mods- SCT by Hemifever on 93oct, E-Fan, 185 T-stat, TB Mod, 3" pacesetters LT Headers and 3" Y-pipe to a 3" SI/DU 2.5 Flowmaster super 10 dumped with turn downs before axle, Power wire, Hughes FI Air gap Intake mani. 4.56 gearing and a Detroit LSD.
To do- Cam, or 408!
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 07:22 AM
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As far as the stroke is concerned, The more stroke the lower the red line. Keep that in mind.
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post #3 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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ooooh didnt know that. so if there is a lower red line than it wont be able to reach peak power at high rpm? or is it the opposite, making peak power at lower rpm?

Current Mods- SCT by Hemifever on 93oct, E-Fan, 185 T-stat, TB Mod, 3" pacesetters LT Headers and 3" Y-pipe to a 3" SI/DU 2.5 Flowmaster super 10 dumped with turn downs before axle, Power wire, Hughes FI Air gap Intake mani. 4.56 gearing and a Detroit LSD.
To do- Cam, or 408!

Last edited by sinus19; 08-02-2011 at 07:45 AM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 09:37 AM
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A longer stroke will generally give more low end torque as well. If you have a lower redline, you'll just hit your peak HP at a lower RPM than a shorter stroked motor. Kinda like how a 318 likes to Rev to make power, and the 360 has better low end grunt.

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post #5 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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now i understand, So i definitely want low end tq to get her of the line and any loss in the highs i can make up with a Top End package (heads, cam etc) . Having a stroke of 4.25" and a bore of 4.00" seems to be the right one than. Especially because i dont want to risk warping/damaging the bore's walls by boring them out too much, suppose that they wont get damaged but i do wanna have some meat in between bores just to be on the safe side.
So what exactly are Siamese bores and what are the pros and cons?

Current Mods- SCT by Hemifever on 93oct, E-Fan, 185 T-stat, TB Mod, 3" pacesetters LT Headers and 3" Y-pipe to a 3" SI/DU 2.5 Flowmaster super 10 dumped with turn downs before axle, Power wire, Hughes FI Air gap Intake mani. 4.56 gearing and a Detroit LSD.
To do- Cam, or 408!

Last edited by sinus19; 08-02-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 10:19 AM
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I can't comment on the siamese bores, but I think you are better off with the package you are thinking of going with. I'd rather have more meat in the cylinder walls just in case you need to re-bore them again. Plus having less meat there will create more heat, which can cause a host of problems.

I'd definitely keep in mind the tranny, your looking at $3000-$4000 in that alone. Just an FYI.

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post #7 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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thanks Jacked, I have also been looking at trannies as well and im aware of the pricing i looked up what a siamese bore is and what it is, is that there are no water jackets in between bores (solid walls) making the block A LOT stronger and capable of huge amounts of power. now the question is, would i need a siamese block? or can a NON-siamese block handle 600+hp? ( keeping in mind the amount of power that i want) not having water jackets in between bores; sounds to me like HEAT problems for a daily driver.

Current Mods- SCT by Hemifever on 93oct, E-Fan, 185 T-stat, TB Mod, 3" pacesetters LT Headers and 3" Y-pipe to a 3" SI/DU 2.5 Flowmaster super 10 dumped with turn downs before axle, Power wire, Hughes FI Air gap Intake mani. 4.56 gearing and a Detroit LSD.
To do- Cam, or 408!

Last edited by sinus19; 08-02-2011 at 10:54 AM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 10:59 AM
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Same here, although much of the heat is in the heads but I still think that would be a lot to worry about. I'm not expert with stuff like this, I hope someone else jumps in for you.

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post #9 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 04:23 PM
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got some big goals to shoot for.....need to find a direction first i think....carbed or efi?....n/a or forced?....forced induction vs n/a at those numbers are 2 very different builds....your talking siamese bore so you want a different block/platform to build from all together?.....if your think r3 then your talking some green backs there....were you find a 427 out of a 360?.....mag 360 block from hughes can go 426 but i dont think its meant for any induction...

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post #10 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel injected for sure. if i could get to 600rwhp with out Enforced induction, than great! I had a siamese bore in mind but what about street-ability (overheating because of no water jackets)? i got the 427 numbers based off Mopar's Small Block catalog (under, short blocks>Displacement charts) I am aware of Hughes 427 and the amount of Ben-gamins and all of his fellow presidents that its gonna take to get it up there, as Vin Diesel once said "I got nothing but time" to get money and to get'er built.

Current Mods- SCT by Hemifever on 93oct, E-Fan, 185 T-stat, TB Mod, 3" pacesetters LT Headers and 3" Y-pipe to a 3" SI/DU 2.5 Flowmaster super 10 dumped with turn downs before axle, Power wire, Hughes FI Air gap Intake mani. 4.56 gearing and a Detroit LSD.
To do- Cam, or 408!
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 06:31 PM
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look at the mancini 4 bolt main for that horse power.
and talk to the builders in south east performance about rhw short block build up.
just in my opinion, the sales rep there needs to be double checked on his eager to sell u things BS!
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post #12 of 12 Old 08-02-2011, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spun360 View Post
look at the mancini 4 bolt main for that horse power.
and talk to the builders in south east performance about rhw short block build up.
just in my opinion, the sales rep there needs to be double checked on his eager to sell u things BS!
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mabesp.html

http://www.southeastperformance.com/...ducts_id=10525
thanks for the great links! and info.

Current Mods- SCT by Hemifever on 93oct, E-Fan, 185 T-stat, TB Mod, 3" pacesetters LT Headers and 3" Y-pipe to a 3" SI/DU 2.5 Flowmaster super 10 dumped with turn downs before axle, Power wire, Hughes FI Air gap Intake mani. 4.56 gearing and a Detroit LSD.
To do- Cam, or 408!
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