Front Brake Upgrade? - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
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post #1 of 66 Old 04-15-2009, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Front Brake Upgrade?

Well, I know I said a few months ago I talked of selling the truck, but after a few months of trying, and talking to the wife and friends, I decided to keep the truck, and most likely take it with me when I move to Seattle, as then I won't have a new car payment, or try to find a new vehicle.

SO here's the question. My front rotors are grooved, and I want a little better braking action. I looked on SummitRacing, and for our trucks, mos tof the new rotor option are all slotted, or cross drilled. Are these a decent upgrade? They are the same price as regular old rotors.

Along with the brakes, I am going to get the rear main seal fixed, dash cover, rust fixed, spray in bed liner, tonneau cover, and start saving for a new engine. I now plan to keep this truck for awhile. The wife said I could get a weekend/sports/fun car when we move, so I need a DD, and parts hauler.

Thanks

99 INTENSE BLUE QC 4X4 318... SOLD last year to fund moving.

Looking for a new truck now that I'm settled in
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post #2 of 66 Old 04-15-2009, 09:43 PM
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Time to bring on the mods! Vehicle payments are retarded. I couldn't imagine having one because you don't 'own' the vehicle until you pay all the payments anyway. Crazy....

Still, I've read good things about PowerSlot rotors. They seem to brake better than the OE rotors at least when equipped with premium pads (Hawk, as an example). I saw some nice stainless steel rotors that were guaranteed to hold their finish and provide best in class braking performance, however they didn't come cheap at around $200 for two rotors (min price, not sure what it would cost for the truck). It's high, but you probably do get what you pay for in this case.

You going to paint match the spray in bedliner too? I heard you can do that now.

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post #3 of 66 Old 04-15-2009, 11:02 PM
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I've had powerstop rotors and pads on my truck now for a few months and have no complaints. I upgraded knowing this year I would be doing more hauling for side jobs and so far they have done well for my truck loaded down or not.
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post #4 of 66 Old 04-15-2009, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I was looking at the Powerslots. Do you have the slotted, or drilled? With the massive 315/75r16s, I got a lot of rotating mass to slow down as well. Those things are heavy as ASS, prolly close to 75 pounds. As far as the bed liner, I have the Intense Blue metallic color, so as long as its close in blue color, its cool. As long as they don't put one of those stupid yellow Line-X stickers on my window.

And my thought process went from, lets get an STR10 ram, lets get a new 09 ram, lets get a Mega Cab, lets keep the decent truck I got now, and get a sports car/fair weather, weekend car. So thats the plan. Do some upgrades, get some problems fixed, and pour money into a sports car. That way I get the best of both worlds. A fast capable car, and a truck to go off roading/hauling and have fun in.

Besides, this was the first car I ever bought on my own, with my own money. I kinda want to keep it for a while.

99 INTENSE BLUE QC 4X4 318... SOLD last year to fund moving.

Looking for a new truck now that I'm settled in
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post #5 of 66 Old 04-16-2009, 11:08 PM
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I got the cross drilled rotors. I wouldn't say they are heavy but I would prob estimate them to be around 30 pounds each max. no more. I was able to move the box with the 2 rotors and pads myself but I can lift up to 90. I am running 285/75r16's on my truck.
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post #6 of 66 Old 04-17-2009, 07:59 PM
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I upgraded to some nice billet twin piston calipers from ssbc and the helped alot. I have basically the same truck as you and I know how bad the brakes are.

1999 Ram 1500, 4x4, 408, 6 inch Dick Cepek lift, 2.5" King shocks, 35" BFG MT , Weld Stone Crushers, SSBC Billet Twin Piston Calipers, EGR Braided Stainless Steel Lines, Mopar tow hooks, 4.56 gears, Rockkrawler kwick disconnects, DT trac bar, True Trac in front, KB headers, True Duels w/Suppertrapp Mufflers, 47 RE, Stereo: Zapco amps, Focal componant set, 2 Kicker CompVR subs, Alpine head, and still going.
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post #7 of 66 Old 04-17-2009, 08:37 PM
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BigDodge ... got some pics of those

sounds interesting




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post #8 of 66 Old 04-17-2009, 10:46 PM
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The only problems I have heard about slotted drilled rotor are they tend to crack, so it could be a case of you get what you pay for.

I would say if you are going to be hauling a heavy load, I would stick to the stock rotors. The drilled rotor although very nice they are ment for high speed stops, and not for heavy load stops.

94 SLT 1500
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Flat Black 2wd


Mods: M1 / Comp Cams / 4.10 / 20" 3rd Gen Rims / 4/6 Drop / Flow Master 40's / All New Skins /

2010 Sport Crew Cab Black 4x4 5.7 3.92 Sport hood 10 Speaker Alpine w/nav

Mods: Diablo 91 Canned Tune / Billet Tech Oil Catch Can / Vararam Intake / Magnaflow Muffler / All Interior|Exterior Bulbs LED White / Recon Smoked 3rd Brake Light / Recon LED Light Bar / Orange Striping / Lockpick / Debaged|Murdered / 2 12" Foxbox / 2 Alpine SWR-12D4 Subs / NVX JAD1200.1 1200w amp / Flat Black VIP Wheels VP2 / Black & Orange Leather / Orange Interior Accents with Gloss Black /

Soon: Race Rotors / EBC Yellow Stuff /


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post #9 of 66 Old 04-17-2009, 10:47 PM
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I would spend my money on stainless hoses and premium pads...the pedal will feel firmer and the braking will be greatly improved.

94 SLT 1500
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Mods: M1 / Comp Cams / 4.10 / 20" 3rd Gen Rims / 4/6 Drop / Flow Master 40's / All New Skins /

2010 Sport Crew Cab Black 4x4 5.7 3.92 Sport hood 10 Speaker Alpine w/nav

Mods: Diablo 91 Canned Tune / Billet Tech Oil Catch Can / Vararam Intake / Magnaflow Muffler / All Interior|Exterior Bulbs LED White / Recon Smoked 3rd Brake Light / Recon LED Light Bar / Orange Striping / Lockpick / Debaged|Murdered / 2 12" Foxbox / 2 Alpine SWR-12D4 Subs / NVX JAD1200.1 1200w amp / Flat Black VIP Wheels VP2 / Black & Orange Leather / Orange Interior Accents with Gloss Black /

Soon: Race Rotors / EBC Yellow Stuff /


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post #10 of 66 Old 04-18-2009, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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After taking a better look at the brakes, they are actually fine. They just have a grooved look to them, they are smooth as could be. Still going to look at those stainless lines, and premium pads. God I hate people who try to undermine your truck when you are selling it so they can try to wiggle a lower price. D-bags.

99 INTENSE BLUE QC 4X4 318... SOLD last year to fund moving.

Looking for a new truck now that I'm settled in
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post #11 of 66 Old 04-18-2009, 08:39 PM
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Sure RAM MAN. There pretty, but salty. Enjoy!
Attached Images
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1999 Ram 1500, 4x4, 408, 6 inch Dick Cepek lift, 2.5" King shocks, 35" BFG MT , Weld Stone Crushers, SSBC Billet Twin Piston Calipers, EGR Braided Stainless Steel Lines, Mopar tow hooks, 4.56 gears, Rockkrawler kwick disconnects, DT trac bar, True Trac in front, KB headers, True Duels w/Suppertrapp Mufflers, 47 RE, Stereo: Zapco amps, Focal componant set, 2 Kicker CompVR subs, Alpine head, and still going.
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post #12 of 66 Old 04-18-2009, 08:41 PM
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holy cow, those look really nice

thanks for the pics ...




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post #13 of 66 Old 06-07-2009, 08:41 PM
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More brakes

I found that one can get better performance by installing 3/4 ton truck calipers and pads. They have larger piston area and they fit in place of "light duty" calipers.
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post #14 of 66 Old 06-07-2009, 09:11 PM
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Hmm, just finishing up my brakes.
Ive got EBC dimpled/slotted rotors (I pwdrctd the hats/caps) and Hawk pads with Russel braided lines.

Looking at those twin piston calipers makes me want to toss mine in the garbage lol. They aluminium? What pad you run on them? Dodge/GM pads or SSBC specific pads?


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post #15 of 66 Old 06-07-2009, 09:23 PM
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Hey MRDANGERUS, I also heard that (upgrade 1500 ram with 2500 ram calipers) did you do this? Any problems with fit ? Which calipers regular 2500 ram or HD 2500 ram? Been thinking about doing this along with 1 ton wheel cylinders on the rear. Ricker
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post #16 of 66 Old 06-08-2009, 01:33 PM
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Brake Calipers

I compared Light duty (stock) calipers with 2500/3500 dimensionally. The same casting and mounting. Only difference is the bigger piston.
I bought them in Advanced Auto Parts for $25 bucks each+ $35 for set of semi-metallic (EL-CHEAPO!) pads. Calipers PN# 18-4297 and 18-4298.
I will replace them next week, may be.

I need to get ambitious. (I'm in the middle of painting my house).
Also my driver side U joint (2) caps are cracked and i'm waiting for replacement (stock) track bar and DT Fabrication front frame stiffener. I want to install all at the same time. My truck is "lurking" and my steering link joints are wearing off too fast. (Good idea to buy them from O'rilleys with lifetime warranty/replacement)

2500/3500 wheel cylinders are direct replacement.

Great DIY technical site
http://dodgeram.info/tech/mods/index.html
http://dodgeram.org/support_pgs/tech_index.htm
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post #17 of 66 Old 06-08-2009, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRDANGERUS View Post
I compared Light duty (stock) calipers with 2500/3500 dimensionally. The same casting and mounting. Only difference is the bigger piston.
My 2500 calipers are dual pistons. Aren't they all?


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post #18 of 66 Old 06-08-2009, 08:05 PM
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MRDANGERUS What year is your truck, will this work for a 99 1500 4x4

~Racer21

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post #19 of 66 Old 06-08-2009, 09:42 PM
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those ssbc calipers are aluminum if i remember rite..i have them on my truck also with slotted rotors..and i THINK they offer them in colors other than aluminum..as far as pads go.they sent me pads wen i ordered my calipers and rotors..and i THINK they are dual 53 mm pistons???isnt that rite bigdodge? i just need ss lines now to better the apearance down there lil bit..lol
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post #20 of 66 Old 06-08-2009, 10:20 PM
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Checked Summit, 2.126"/54mm twin piston aluminium calipers in clear are $875 with graphite metalic pads.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Really like to get these, may have to sell off some spare parts.

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