ROLL CALL!! 1st gen Intrepid owners!!! - Page 3 - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #41 of 51 Old 05-14-2010, 11:40 AM
RevTomMcCoyDD
Registered User
 
RevTomMcCoyDD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Madison
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
1993 Dodge Intrepid

In September of 2008 I bought my front wheel drive Dodge, an Intrepid for $250-. I have fallen in love with these cars! I have a '92 Lebaron. a '92 Town & Country, '93 Intrepid, '93 Voyager, and a '95 Concorde w/108,000 miles for $300-! Only problems I see usually are 1) Trans not shifting properly, 2) Stereo,A/C, Window, and running lights electrical, and 3)inner tie rod bushings . I just love FWD in our Wisconsin winters. I think the exhaust system could be better flowing. Try a Chip for the Computer? PEACE
RevTomMcCoyDD is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #42 of 51 Old 04-10-2011, 05:14 AM
intrepid40
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thumbs up Intrepid 1st generation

I have a 93 Intrepid 3.3L with 176,000 miles and my engine/tranny still runs pretty good....Im gonna drive this car till the body rust and the wheels fall off!
intrepid40 is offline  
post #43 of 51 Old 06-27-2013, 03:47 PM
Thumpered442
ASE and ICAR Certified XV
 
Thumpered442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park City
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Angry Problems with motor start up 1996 ES 3.5 Automatic

1996 Dodge Intrepid ES with a 3.5 V6, has 137000 miles, automatic transmission.
Will not crank over, won’t start, starter spins but does not engage.
I bought this vehicle with a so called “Leaking water pump”. I checked the oil dip stick and saw clean oil, no water or antifreeze on it. Bought the car and drove it 30 miles home and parked it. The next morning there was about a half quart of antifreeze on the driveway. Checked the overflow bottle, which was nearly empty. Put in almost a gallon of antifreeze and drove to Autozone. Picked up two bottles of water pump sealer. Since the water pump was not making noise, I hoped this was a cheap fix for athe time being. I poured one bottle it into the overflow bottle and the leak completely stopped. I then drove it over for three weeks, almost two thousand miles, had a small water leak and put in the second bottle and had no more water leak problems. The temp gauge always read less than half way on the gauge, no overheating, drove great, put almost two thousand miles on it after that. I then got a check engine light, went into O'Reilly Auto Parts and the code was Mis-Fire. Cleared the code and the next day, got another check Engine light. Went back to O'Reilly Auto Parts and the code was the same Mis-Fire. Cleared the code again and they said it was most likely the spark plugs or the spark plug wires. Bought plugs, pulled out the 5”inch spark plug boot and then pulled plug number one on the front right. As you know the plugs are way down inside the manifold, takes a 4” inch extension and the spark plug socket. The plug looked great, checked the gap on new plug, replaced it and put the boot back on. I did not replace the other five at that time as I left the task for another day. Three days later, while driving on the freeway the temp gauge went past the half way mark and I pulled over, opened the hood and the engine compartment was hotter than normal. Tried to remove the over flow bottle cap half way and antifreeze was coming out of the over flow tube, let the car sit for a few minutes, then drove to a friends home and parked it for about five hours. Got back in the car (almost midnight), started it and drove home bound on the freeway. Was going 70 mph with cruise control working fine, when the temp gauge began to climb, I thought the thermostat must be sticking, so turned on the heater to see if that would help circulate the antifreeze, all of a sudden I got an Engine Oil light and Check Engine Light on, then the temp gauge dropped and I thought all was good. The Engine Oil light went off and then the motor began to sputter and there was no power as I pressed on the gas pedal, dead gas pedal. My heart sank and the car began to slow down and coasted to the side of the freeway. Came to a stop, put it into park and tried to restart it. The starter was turning but no engine turn over, nothing but the sound of the starter. The engine quit and I was thankful there was a full moon and no rain. I grabbed my golf clubs and made the walk of shame down the freeway. There were four different vehicles that passed me and nobody stopped. I walked a bit over a mile before a State patrolman turned on his lights and scared the crud out of me. He got out laughing and said, “I just got to know what’s going on. I have never seen anyone carrying golf clubs down the road at midnight before”. I told him my story and he gave me a ride home from there, giggling all the way. Next day, my mom and I went out with a tow rope and we towed into a repair shop, the guy went out and tried to start it, just had starter noise. He said, “Sounds like no compression, may have broke the timing belt and if you did, you may have bent the rods if this is a Interface motor your screwed If the timing belt is broken you may have blown the motor. Call the Dodge Service Dept. and find out if it is an Interface motor and remove the timing belt cover and see if the timing belt is broken. I called the service manager and found out it is an Interface motor (I thought OMG) but he said “The chances of the rods bending and the motor blown would be pretty minimal if anything. So, take it apart and find out if the timing belt is broke and call me back”. So, I began my task, went to a web site and watched a two-part video on how to take out the radiator, A/C belt, Serpentine Belt and tensioner, Crankshaft pulley, the two timing belt engine covers and what did I find? That the timing belt was NOT broken, now what the heck do I do? “Check the timing marks on the block, since it is a dual overhead cams motor I checked to make sure the crank was at Top Dead Center (TDC) and rotated the engine clockwise to line up the mark on the crank pulley to the TDC mark on the block, checked both the camshaft sprocket alignment marks and found the passenger side camshaft sprocket was to the left of both indented marks on the block, so the camshaft must have moved one tooth to the left somehow. The white indented mark on the camshaft pulley was not in the same position as the drivers side camshaft pulley which was between the two dented marks on the block. So I figured the timing belt skipped a cog, simple fix right? According to the website I took off the belt tensioner and loosened the timing belt. Bought a new timing belt and water pump. Replaced both and even turned the crankshaft two complete turns and lined up to TDC, checked the camshaft sprocket alignment marks and both sides are in the middle of the two marks on the block, seems all is perfect. I had high hopes, put it all back together, which is a process, but that is why I love mechanics anyway. So, went to start it and what happened? SAME thing, starter making noise, no cranking, no fire. I called the service dept. and he said “Replace the camshaft senor and crankshaft senor and it should fire right up”. I researched where these are located and will most likely replace them today and see what happens next. Any clues out there in this World Wide Web of Internet what I can do next? By the way, I have also torn it all back down and checked the timing belt alignment marks and rotated the crank to TDC, both the camshaft sprockets are aligned perfectly in the center of the alignment marks, re-rotated the crank two more turns and re-checked the camshaft, all perfect! I have taken photos of this whole process for anyone to verify what has happened. My phone number is 406-530-1103 and my email is [email protected] thank you very much anyone? I have read and reread so many forum posts about this problem that my eyes are getting terrible the last two days. Posts that have 97 Intrepid 3.5L Won't Start, Need Help! Some say ECM is bad, some say Camshaft and Crankshaft Sensors are bad, am I on a wrong path?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg A2_1996_Intrepid_In process of tear down.jpg (70.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg A3_1996_Intrepid_TDC.jpg (81.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg A4_1996_Intrepid_Passenger_Side_Camshaft.jpg (62.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg A5_1996_Intrepid_Drivers_Side_Camshaft.jpg (41.3 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg A6_1996_Intrepid_Second_Teardown.jpg (70.3 KB, 9 views)
Thumpered442 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #44 of 51 Old 06-30-2013, 02:08 AM
Thumpered442
ASE and ICAR Certified XV
 
Thumpered442's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park City
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Question Update replaced cam and crank sensors still no start

I have changed out the Crankshaft and Camshaft Sensors. Took photos along the way. Noticed the camshaft sensor, located on the left (drivers side) upper camshaft area next to the thermostat had no paper spacer on the end of it per factory information you need the paper spacer resting on the camshaft. I had hoped that was the problem of no start, no fire. Then changed out the Crankshaft Sensor, wow that was only accessible after taking off the right front wheel and going thru the splash shield. Took photos and will add to this post. Is my next move / purchase an ECM (Electronic Control Module), a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor, a PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or what? I have no trouble codes after doing the key check trick, The starter spins the engine, but there is no sign of life yet. I will get a scan tool tomorrow and see what the computer says. Thanks for reading sure could use some idea's.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Camshaft_Sensor_Location_Upper_DriversSide_Old_Verses_New.jpg (100.7 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg Crankshaft_Sensor_Location_Diagram.jpg (46.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Crankshaft_Sensor_Location_Old.jpg (128.0 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg Crankshaft_Sensors_Old_New.jpg (50.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Left_Camshaft_Between_Marks_.jpg (67.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg Right_Camshaft_Between_Marks_Again.jpg (76.8 KB, 7 views)
Thumpered442 is offline  
post #45 of 51 Old 08-15-2013, 04:08 PM
Mo Mopar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo Mopar View Post
Parents own a 97' .. I drive it sometimes. Intrepids are cool cars.
Car is sold!..... It was a 96' not 97' my mistake.
Mo Mopar is offline  
post #46 of 51 Old 01-03-2015, 09:03 PM
lady LAURA
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Ok but I'm first owner intrepid 2003 after I replace my engine wow wherever they found my engine its been on the move since the replacement. 6 cylinder love the power when u touch the gas.
lady LAURA is offline  
post #47 of 51 Old 03-19-2015, 03:16 PM
ttomlinson57
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Alright curently own a 95 3.5 intrepid. I have having some issue with the stalling at stop lights or makeing turnes , seams like it would be low fuel pressure or manifold gaskets or even the intake gasket.. these all a good suggestion by the way. My would start normal idle rough but rpms stayed at 800 only way to keep it from stalling all the time would be to put in neutral and feather the throttle a lil. I tore into this thing today. This is what I got. The E.G.R TRANSDUCER THE RUBBER SEAL RIPPED COST OF PART 35 BUCKS. It starts right up the rich fuel smell has deleted. And it has not had an issue at the moment still going to redo the manifolds gaskets fuel rail and upper intake to make sure their is no vacume leak in those touchey areas. coolant getting in the throttle body/ intake= bigger than what
ttomlinson57 is offline  
post #48 of 51 Old 03-19-2015, 03:26 PM
ttomlinson57
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
1995 EGR TRANSDUCER, this is also a solenoid for the fuel air mix ratio.the center of seal is gone which in turn sucks more air than fuel to run. If you have a rich fuel smell try this after the plugs and wires. My wouldnt start had to hold and pump the throttle it would barely idle. Cost of part 35.00 @ORiley s. My pvc VALVE hose for the iac sensor was collapsed replaced that as well
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1426796299995_1426796386048.jpg (669.4 KB, 1 views)
ttomlinson57 is offline  
post #49 of 51 Old 03-19-2015, 03:34 PM
ttomlinson57
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Also first generation treps fuel injection recall fro 94 to 97 also the lower control arm was also recalled and to deal with the tranny they has shifting lever recall if your experienceing this call a chrysler dealer have them run the vin and they will tell you if your car has been updated yet or not.
the rack and pinon bushing s on the 96 3.3 l intrepid rot out as well so clunking in the front end prolly LOWER CONTROLL ARM WHICH WAS RECALLED DONT FORGET SAVE YOURSELF SOME CASH
ttomlinson57 is offline  
post #50 of 51 Old 03-19-2015, 04:27 PM
ttomlinson57
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
3.5 over heat make sure ur fans are working correct min was not and boild over the overfill spout all because a plug on the cars wiring harness wire harnes pigtail to dual fan splitter mine is melted this is what caused me to overheat check it out
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1426800300808_1426800327142.jpg (132.8 KB, 1 views)
ttomlinson57 is offline  
post #51 of 51 Old 03-19-2015, 05:38 PM
ttomlinson57
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
95 intrepid new egr transducer smoked a lill when I started it but throttle response and idle is clean
ttomlinson57 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to use most of our features, you must first register.
Please enter your desired User Name, your Email Address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
The registration process requires you to activate your membership by following a link in an E-Mail that will be sent to you immediately upon completing this form. You must enter a valid email address or you will not receive this activation code and you will NOT be registered. Your E-Mail address is NOT publicly available to anyone as policy.

AOL E-MAIL USERS: Please click HERE for important info pertaining to your e-mail address.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ROLL CALL!!! Dodge Van/Wagon Owners 03RAMVAN360 Dodge B-Series Vans 1971 - 2003 418 10-01-2012 06:17 PM
1st gen ctd ryjack 2G Dodge Ram Diesel Talk 1 03-03-2007 10:10 AM
1st Gen. Intrepid Autostick conversion - Complete! 70ChallengerV10 For Sale - Car Parts 1 02-21-2007 06:51 AM
Tranny swap! 2nd gen to 1st? Fastestlimpines 2G Dodge Intrepid - General Talk 2 02-14-2007 01:11 AM
To all 1998 through current model year Intrepid owners! moparbob 2G Dodge Intrepid - General Talk 0 10-24-2003 02:58 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome