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post #161 of 553 Old 06-14-2006, 10:30 PM
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Ok, I was under the impression that the harness (part# 56042934AA) was a plug and go item. That is definately not the case with what I have here. I received the switches from the dealer today as they said I would, but quickly discovered that 'tab A' does not fit into 'slot B'. You can see it in the first picture. However, it appears that a quick clip on the switch and I will be good to go as shown in the second (cut out plastic in red box). Now, my question is, do I have to do anything to the connection at the clockspring or is it just 'plug and go' as I had hoped?
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post #162 of 553 Old 06-15-2006, 10:28 PM
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Anyone? Does the harness have to be modified (or the connector) at the clockspring to get this set-up to work? I'm looking to order parts so that I can fab one of these from scratch, but I need to know if all three connections require a mod. Thanks.
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post #163 of 553 Old 06-15-2006, 10:45 PM
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You should be able to plug right into the clockspring. Yes You will need to modify the connectors. I had to do the same thing.

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post #164 of 553 Old 06-15-2006, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brbrem
You should be able to plug right into the clockspring.
With or without modding the connectors at the clockspring? I know they have to be trimmed for the switches, but I would like to know if the connector on the harness will plug into the clockspring without mods.

I am only curious b/c if I can identify the connection there then I intend to try and make a harness from scratch. If it works then I thought I might offer to fab them for some others on the forum for a reasonable price.....much less than the dealer wants at any rate and if possible it will be 'plug and go'.

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post #165 of 553 Old 06-16-2006, 01:22 PM
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The only cable modification you should do is at the switches. It should just plug straight into the clockspring. Piece of cake!

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post #166 of 553 Old 06-17-2006, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TKESlinky
With or without modding the connectors at the clockspring? I know they have to be trimmed for the switches, but I would like to know if the connector on the harness will plug into the clockspring without mods.

I am only curious b/c if I can identify the connection there then I intend to try and make a harness from scratch. If it works then I thought I might offer to fab them for some others on the forum for a reasonable price.....much less than the dealer wants at any rate and if possible it will be 'plug and go'.
No mod to the connector at the clockspring only the switch as mentioned. Make sure the wire is there from the clockspring to the C4 connection behind the instrument cluster. I did one that did not have the wire. I had to add it.

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post #167 of 553 Old 06-18-2006, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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I tried to post yesterday to tell you that you would only have to modify the switch plugs only ..... the Clock spring will be Plug and Play, My Free Wireless went down yesterday so it wouldnt let me open any websites after I tried to reply to your post but it seem to be up and running ok today

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post #168 of 553 Old 06-19-2006, 12:23 AM
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Thx for all the help guys. I went out of town for the weekend and am just now getting back to looking at this. Good news is I have someone looking for the connector that plugs into the clockspring. I believe I have found the others already (for the switches). I'm just curious, but if I can make some of these up, would anybody be interrested? It will be plug-and-play if possible. As for the connection from clockspring to mux connector, I'm looking at some different pins for those connections. However, in the end, it is still something you guys would have to mod yourselves.

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post #169 of 553 Old 06-29-2006, 01:29 AM
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Well, here is the latest mock up. I haven't managed to find a connector compatible with the clockspring as of yet (plug-and-play that is). I do have some that will plug into it, but just not 'lock' into it. Anyway, here are some pics of the finished product using one of the connectors from the listed harness(I still have two of them left)....the rest is fabbed from scratch. Surprizingly, it took me a bit longer than expected, but my ohm meter confirms that it is functional.

I intend to install it this weekend since I have it off. I picked up the back part of the steering wheel from my parents '02 Jeep Cherokee (its been modified for left-hand drive) and am going to do a quick practice run on it before I cut my own. Hope it all goes smooth.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg modded harness.JPG (150.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg new plug.JPG (20.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg new plug 2.JPG (18.9 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg almost in.JPG (91.7 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg plugged in.JPG (58.6 KB, 5 views)

'05 RAM 1500 QC 4x4 5.7L HEMI
JetStream Scoop
Airram Power Wire
360AirIntakes
AeroTurbine AT3030 muffler and custom dual exhaust with 3" Magnaflow tips
Superchips FlashPaq 3815
Cooper Zeon LTZ 305/55R20's on stock rims

Last edited by TKESlinky; 06-29-2006 at 01:34 AM.
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post #170 of 553 Old 06-29-2006, 04:17 AM
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im searching ALL the local recycle yards for that darn cable as the price has increased again to over 112 online, 146 local dealer price


any chance you want to part with the two harnesses that connect to the switches? thats all I really need
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post #171 of 553 Old 06-29-2006, 05:35 PM
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Umm, ok, that didn't come out right. I have two of the connectors left from the original harness. From what has been said here, the connector at the clockspring on the harness we were told to order will be plug-and-play. The other two had to be modified to plug into the switches (The first pic in post #161 shows the delimma I'm refering to). I opted to replace the two that would be modified with some compatible with the switches so they wouldn't have to be mutilated....if you can follow all of that, lol. The first pic below is of the connectors originally on the harness (three total). The second are the connectors that I ordered. If the harness works as planned when I go install it this weekend I will have enough parts to make 2 more, then I'll have to get even more creative.
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File Type: jpg Audio plug.JPG (94.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg new plug.JPG (20.9 KB, 4 views)

'05 RAM 1500 QC 4x4 5.7L HEMI
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Cooper Zeon LTZ 305/55R20's on stock rims

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post #172 of 553 Old 06-29-2006, 05:38 PM
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yeah I went to like three dismantlers today and FINALLY found a premium wire set off a 2003 dodge ram steering wheel

guy charged me $40 for it, I SUUUURE hope it works
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post #173 of 553 Old 06-29-2006, 09:44 PM
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Shouldn't have any problems, but you will probably have to shave the connectors that plug into the switches just a bit. Good luck.

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post #174 of 553 Old 06-30-2006, 08:33 AM
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Has anyone successfully installed the controls in a 2006 yet. I have them installed and am told by a chrysler rep that it can be done, but I spent hours at a dealer with starscan and we could not find the option to enable them. The rep just keeps saying it can be done?? Am going back to the dealer next week to try with the newer version of the starscan 2.6(I think). Just wondering if anyone else has experience with 06's.

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post #175 of 553 Old 06-30-2006, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.D.
Has anyone successfully installed the controls in a 2006 yet. I have them installed and am told by a chrysler rep that it can be done, but I spent hours at a dealer with starscan and we could not find the option to enable them. The rep just keeps saying it can be done?? Am going back to the dealer next week to try with the newer version of the starscan 2.6(I think). Just wondering if anyone else has experience with 06's.
im doing mine this weekend so ill be able to say yeah or nay

but Im pretty sure when ordering the switches you have to MAKE SURE they are switches for a 2006, as the resistors are different

when I ordered mine online they were options for 2003, 2004, 2005, and 2006 specific switches, so think the newer style radiso require ONLY the 2006 marked switches. since the decks are clearly different-- even thhough the switches have the same model number

if you go to makitemopar.com, and drop in the switch part number for left/right youll see what I mean about the year options


and side questions

those with the SWIX adapation (AFTERMARKET DECK ONLY)

since im cutting the +5V wire and splicing INTO the harness end and taping of the rest of the wire that terminates back towards the MUX connector behind the dash (STOCK Grey/White wire--- those without stock +5V/Ground will have varying colors of course)

do I even need to connect this wire to behind the dash (C4 MUX connector PIN 12)? since im going to cut it anyway to splice to the WHITE wire of the PAC SWIX?

save me some time if I dont have to pull the dash peices thats all


thanks

and is it possible to put BOTH swithces on the LEFT hand side of the steering wheel?? I drive with one hand, and it would be great to have the controls on one side. I noticed that the switches on the RIGHT side (volume) has the wire connector that would make it tight, just wondeirng if there was enough room to do this

some guy photoshopped this

Last edited by titanconvert; 06-30-2006 at 06:51 PM.
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post #176 of 553 Old 06-30-2006, 10:44 PM
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I'd say take some measurements before you make any cuts. If the switches will physically fit on one side, then it shouldn't be a problem.

If time permits, I'll be doing mine tomorrow. There's just so much stuff that piles up when you only get every other weekend off. I now have 3 of the fabbed harnesses. If the one works as it should then I'll be offering the others for sale.
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'05 RAM 1500 QC 4x4 5.7L HEMI
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post #177 of 553 Old 07-01-2006, 12:47 AM
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where is your wire to connect the white steering harness (+5V) to the MUX (grey harness) plug? hope you didnt use all your OEM pins up, and white steering harness to ground?

or does your truck already have the 5V to MUX wire?
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post #178 of 553 Old 07-02-2006, 12:52 AM
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My truck already had the +5V to Mux and ground installed (came with the 7 speaker Infinity). However, I DO still have the connectors (and pins) that I did not use. At this time, the harnesses I fabbed are for sale and are plug-and-play....at least for the part done within the steering wheel. For those that have to wire from clockspring to mux, I do have pins available as well.

Anyway, the install went very well and with no hiccups. It did take me a little longer than expected (about 70 mins), but seeing as how I'm a bit of a perfectionist I don't think that's too bad. I took measurements from our '06 Durango to determin how far in the switches should be installed before starting. Rather than writing on the steering cover with marker, I opted to tape the templates in place and use them as the pattern to follow. Used a thin cutting disc on the dremmel to create a diamond-like hole and then switched to a small cylindrical sanding wheel to expand the hole (be careful as the peices of plastic that fly off are somewhat hot and tacky). I had to sand off a small amount on the clips of the switches to get them back together once in the holes. Below are pics of the finished product, my stock radio, and what is left of the scavenged harnesses.

In the end I can't believe how easy this was to do. Now that they are installed I don't see how I managed without them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Left installed.JPG (149.8 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg Right installed.JPG (177.0 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Radio.JPG (177.6 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Harnesses apart.JPG (166.8 KB, 6 views)

'05 RAM 1500 QC 4x4 5.7L HEMI
JetStream Scoop
Airram Power Wire
360AirIntakes
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Superchips FlashPaq 3815
Cooper Zeon LTZ 305/55R20's on stock rims
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post #179 of 553 Old 07-02-2006, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by titanconvert
im doing mine this weekend so ill be able to say yeah or nay

but Im pretty sure when ordering the switches you have to MAKE SURE they are switches for a 2006, as the resistors are different

when I ordered mine online they were options for 2003, 2004, 2005, and 2006 specific switches, so think the newer style radiso require ONLY the 2006 marked switches. since the decks are clearly different-- even thhough the switches have the same model number

if you go to makitemopar.com, and drop in the switch part number for left/right youll see what I mean about the year options


and side questions

those with the SWIX adapation (AFTERMARKET DECK ONLY)

since im cutting the +5V wire and splicing INTO the harness end and taping of the rest of the wire that terminates back towards the MUX connector behind the dash (STOCK Grey/White wire--- those without stock +5V/Ground will have varying colors of course)

do I even need to connect this wire to behind the dash (C4 MUX connector PIN 12)? since im going to cut it anyway to splice to the WHITE wire of the PAC SWIX?

save me some time if I dont have to pull the dash peices thats all


thanks

and is it possible to put BOTH swithces on the LEFT hand side of the steering wheel?? I drive with one hand, and it would be great to have the controls on one side. I noticed that the switches on the RIGHT side (volume) has the wire connector that would make it tight, just wondeirng if there was enough room to do this

some guy photoshopped this
https://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/atta...chmentid=69327
I tried to reply to this post yesterday but had no success but hopefully tday it will post ..... to answer your question about the SWIX Unit ... you do not need to run the wire to the Mux on the back of the cluster unless you plan on taking out your aftermarket deck and reinstalling a factory deck later on ..... so it can be hooked up later on for when you decide to sell it .. makes for a good selling point . The thing with the SWIX Unit you will need to find a place to mount the transmitter for the remote for it to work.
Second thing is I wouldnt put two switches on the same side .. doesnt seem like there is enough space and or plastic to hold the switches correctly .. the other thing is it wouldnt look factory and if you ever sold the truck they would know it was done after the fact ... just my .02 but it is your truck and you can install it however you want

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post #180 of 553 Old 07-02-2006, 03:22 PM
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When I ordered my switches I used the same part #'s, but I did include my vin in the order, which should have indidacted the year I needed. When I compared the resistances required for the switches in the 05 and 06 manuals, they indicated the same. So it looks like the same switches would work. The electronic copy of my reciept is on another computer at work so I dont have access right now to see if it posted what year the switches were ordered under. I do know mine dont work, so please post your outcome when available on the 06's. I was told on another forum that starscan is needed on the 06's??? dont know??? TITANCONVERT how do you know the resistors are different for the years? Thanks

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