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post #21 of 78 Old 05-09-2018, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
I8AHEMI
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Got the new cam dialed in. After some double checking and number crunching my numbers are only off around a degree which is good enough.

Got the wheel from summit and the dial gauge setup from HF(less than half the price of a cheap kit). A bolt welded to the end of a gunkyard lifter to get a good angle to measure off. Drilled a slight dimple in the end of the bolt for the dial indicator helped tighten up reading inaccuracies.

One thing I wasnít too happy about was the bolt and washer kit from Hughes threw me off. After bolting it down I had like .120Ē of end play in the cam - after a call to Hughes the advise was to cut the bolt down as it was probably bottoming out in the cam. Sure enough it wasnít pulling the timing gear in enough so I cut the bolt down to get it to work. Doesnít seem right that they sell a bolt and washer that doesnít fit right into their own cam but oh well. Thought I was done tearing into it but with all these gaskets I had better use em. Looks like the rear main was leaking and was pretty easy to replace.


The one crank bearing looked good and I clocked the seal off center to seal it up better. Put black rtv on the outer ring and grease on the inner seal as per instructions.

Front seal was even easier. There were some helpful/ entertaining YouTube vids on these that made me cringe at times. Most of this is new to me but feels good to know that some of these smaller details were done / hopefully correctly.


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post #22 of 78 Old 05-27-2018, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Been chipping away at the todo list for the motor. As you can see I went with Hemi orange / over done I know but I like it. Was going to get the mopar valve covers too but decided to clean up the stockers and use them for now - gave them some orange stripes and crinkle black for contrast.

The intake is just sitting on top as Iíve just finished doing some work to it. Cleaned up some roughness inside and cut a relief hole in the divider as I heard it can increase hp a bit.

Also picked up some front seats/console from a 2011 Durango citadel. Iím loving the seats in my Jeep with the vented cooling function and will definitely be looking to hook this up in the truck.



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post #23 of 78 Old 06-08-2018, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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I know your probably saying is that a junk China intake ? Yup I think it is it came up locally for sale and I got it for $100 - heard good and bad things about em. Had to get the thermostat and housing separately- it takes a big block thermostat- felt pretty cool ordering one for a 440 69 roadrunner at the local auto store ! I also picked up a Holley 4160 carb and did a clean/rebuild on it.

Iíd love to put a sniper efi unit on it but will use this 750cfm to get it up and running before that (trying to eliminate as many start up issues as possible. Carb was cheap and local as well - Iíll try and get a build cost post up and keep updating it at least for the motor / probably donít want to count the truck total build costs !


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post #24 of 78 Old 06-08-2018, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Sneak peak on the interior work. It has been a challenge for me and my back lugging these heavy seats in and out but Iíve got the wiring almost figured out for the heating cooling - waiting on some ordered switches to finish. Modded the center consol to fit better and have power. Challenge was to get a good seat position with the big seats and Iím 6í3Ē - found the happy medium of leg room to pedal vs back angle. Itís pretty much the same angle as the bench which I didnít like but with a way nicer seat.



The seat color really complements the trucks (unintentional) and I can drive around now again !
Now Iím thinking I need a new wheel - maybe even a new column with some adjustability to make it perfect.



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post #25 of 78 Old 07-08-2018, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Flowtech Headers I got for Christmas- had to be stripped and ceramic painted or the cheap paint will burn right off and start rusting - might wrap these too, we will see. Itís projects like this that have been slowing me down lately - nasty stuff using aircraft stripper and wire brush (avoid skin contact).


Painted with
Finished after being baked in a box with a heat gun close to manufactures recommendations.



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post #26 of 78 Old 07-08-2018, 12:30 PM
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That looks great! Those seats look right at home in there too. Keep up the good work.

J.T. Wooley


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post #27 of 78 Old 07-22-2018, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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88 D100 boozer build

Finally pretty much done with the interior for now. Seems like Iíve been working on it forever -for the seats I cut the front mounting feet off the fronts and for the backs ones only the outer one needed to be cut and bent to get the angles right -

the outer rear mounting position was on the transition of the bump in floor which gave some odd angles. Square tubing was used to make spacers with grade 8 hardware bolting it down. The wiring to it was fairly straightforward once I figured out what powered what in the seats - I ran a heavy hot line from the battery back to under the center console and used a fuse tap off the fuse bock for acc power to turn on the relays. 3 relays were used 2 30 amps for the separate seat motors and a 15 for both seats fans/heat and lights. From all the research I did I donít think either (fans/heat elements) pull much amps so I tied in the cup holder lights to it too. The cig lighter just got tied into my existing one. Everything has appropriate fuses inline too.

Used a small universal multi switch installed on the sides of the center console and have it hooked up to blow fans for the green light and heat for the red.


I was super mad that I cut the hole too big first time for switch donít know how I did it but only measured once and paid for it. You can see I had to do a carbon fiber patch below the drivers side switch / passengers side came out fine of course. The console was gutted and cut down to fit better too - it does sit forward more than the stock position and have a larger gap in between it and the seats but thatís just how it had to be without having a strange gap to the dash / it does give me some storage room behind the seat area too for some future stereo equipment possibly. I plan on mounting some gauges in the front of the console when I do the motor swap and will cover where the shifter hole is with some of the leftover carbon fiber wrap to tidy it up.




Also had to upgrade the steering wheel - grant challenger wheel and adapter kit - was not an easy install like it should have been but next post will be on that.



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post #28 of 78 Old 07-26-2018, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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The steering wheel deal - Iíve installed a grant before (15yrs ago on a gbody) and remember it was pretty easy. This one turned out to be a pain. I ordered the correct kit grr-4320, challenger wheel plus a mopar horn button from summit. Put it all together and the wheel had bound up bad and wouldnít steer smoothly. The 2 sets of instructions are kinda universal for all there kits and I discovered I was missing a spacer that was listed to be needed for that kit. Called summit and after some researching (they know I needed it but kits donít have it)they ended up sending me another kit for the van that would have the sleeve needed. It came and didnít have it either ?? So called grant and had to email them my request - they too had great customer service and ended up sending out both sleeve pieces they have. I also asked for more aluminum tape as mine had torn away from the nut that makes the grounding point for the horn but didnít get any of that. It looked like I only needed 1/4Ē or so to space it out so I cut one down and tried it.

It too was binding up still making the steering very sticky. Ended up using the whole longer spacer/sleeve and taking my turn signal cam piece (no better name for it) and filing off some plastic lip inside it.

Careful if you take the whole plastic turn signal assembly off as there is a spring loaded tiny brass roller that will fly off when removed. I was lucky enough to find the 3 ufos and put it all back together. In the end I have about a 1/8 gap from the column to the hub cover but I can live with it since I have put the wheel on and off half a dozen times and I donít feel like messing with it any more. The horn button while being way cooler that just a plain one doesnít fit real great either. The idea is you pop in on lining up the notches and loading the spring then turn to lock in place. Well it pops on alright but doesnít turn - I had to fight to get it off even without it being locked on. Make sure your good with everything and your grounds before putting it on. Iím waiting for the day it pops off when I hit the horn and then constantly grounds out blasting the horn continuously.

Before and after.


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post #29 of 78 Old 08-06-2018, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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88 D100 boozer build

Got a few junkyard scores ! Found a couple trucks next to each other an old 70ís tin grille style and robbed the hood

Itís in great condition other than a couple cracks in paint closest in the pic- this will probably end up on the truck. I went originally for these rear bumper mounts (off another 80ís version). The plan was for a smooth bumper install much like a ram charger but after further investigation they look different to any Iíve seen. The bumper is toast and was left at the yard. Any help on identifying it for a new one would be great.


.
Got these trim pieces too / just cos.

Before and after - not sure if they are going to stay on or not.

Picked up an electric fan of a 2001 crown vic - the internet told me these fans move a lot of air and are a close match to the radiator - more info to follow soon. All these parts came up to less than $100 (need to shop the yard more).



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post #30 of 78 Old 08-19-2018, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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So you might have noticed in some of the other pics I got a tonneau cover off eBay. Its the trifecta 2 model from extang. A bit pricey ($360)but got tired of water collecting in the bed due to plugged up drain holes. Iíve been real happy with the quality and ease of use of it.

Another quick project I just did was the pedals. I found these RS1 racing pedal covers at advanced and liked the look. I had to trim up the pedals up to make them fit better and drill holes for a secure mount.


I removed the accelerator pedal altogether to work on it easier. Attached the new cover with a slight angle not as large as the original.





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post #31 of 78 Old 08-19-2018, 04:34 PM
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Keep the pics comin' brother!!!
I'd like to fix up 'ol blue (96 Dodge Ram 1500, original owner/318/NV3500/REAL...2WD, lol), she's got 225K+ miles, engine still strong as a draft horse, n JUST WON'T DIE. Maybe 1 day when both money AND time intersect in this universe! Till then, I live vicariously thru folks like you.
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post #32 of 78 Old 08-19-2018, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hey the pedal covers were less than $20 and I know what your saying about time as if I had more the motor would be in already. I do have a deadline tho one of those 9month ones - so by feb I want to have this truck about sorted as far as Iím going to go with it.


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post #33 of 78 Old 08-29-2018, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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Little touch ups to the exterior last weekend- new clear headlight lenses with H4 bulbs from LMC with the wiring harness to utilize better wires and more relays. Iíve done this before in a Jeep XJ and Iím pretty sure these are the same rampage lights I used on the Jeep . Itís an easy install with a big difference in performance and looks. Had to open up the headlight housing to fit the new lights and the rest is plug and play. I also upgraded the LMC bulbs to sylvania ZXE bulbs (pricey but has a nice white light and blue bulb) from advanced auto. I didnít test the ones that lmc provided with the lights so they will just be back ups.
Daytime before and after

Night time pictures donít show the light very well but gives you an idea of the change - (2) inside cab and outside the window before and afters taken at the same spot all low beam.


Also ordered the chrome non step bumper from LMC. My step bumper brackets are welded to the bumper so you have to acquire some off a ramcharger to fit or fabricate your own. I say acquire because nobody makes them anymore and there is some confusion out there as to what does fit and doesnít. I picked up some from one yard that was on a beat up 80s D100 with a non step but after researching more I couldnít find another one like it and it wasnít even close to fitting the new bumper. These are the non fitting unknowns (well they did fit the black truck pictured and were no fun to take off)



I got lucky tho and found a local guy parting out an 88 ramcharger that had the brackets I needed (got the old bumper too).


Also got another set of rims I didnít need but for $100 with the bumper and brackets I couldnít pass it up.

Glad I got the old bumper as well even tho it went out with the trash. The new LMC one has the same mounting holes for the license plate light (not offered by them) as the ramcharger. So I cleaned 30 years of dirt off the light and wire wheeled the bracket to get a good ground (my trucks lights were grounded through wire) cleaned up the wiring and put the old connector back on, that plugs into the trucks harness and everything worked out great.

Some before and afters of the rear. The new bumper does have a slight roll off towards the ends which I donít like but from what Iím gathering itís normal for these and probably just due to the crappy stamping process. Iíll just get use to it (most probably wouldnít notice) but would be nicer I think of it was straight across and more even with the body lines.



This shows the stamp shape more

I got a hitch from the ramcharger too (another $20) but decided not to put it on and keep the look as clean as possible.




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post #34 of 78 Old 11-06-2018, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Ok some more exterior work done ! I almost pulled the trigger on the sniper efi unit but will postpone that till next year. I have about 2g in the motor alone (adds up quick) and want it get it up and running/ kinks worked out before putting an expensive kit on like that. The hood I took to a local paint shop to get color matched to the PS8 dark grey. It came out great and almost have it aligned perfect. I took the badges off the 95 parts truck and modified/painted them to replace the bulky RAM and box 100 badge. I can line up the new badge to cover the 3 holes the older badge fit in. Used 3M trim adhesive tape to stick em on.




Some more hood pics


If you do the hood swap you need the cowl piece that goes between the hood and windshield or it wonít line up smoothly. I used the older hood striker and had to move it over an inch or 2 to line up with trucks original latch and self tap screws hold it there. The older cowl doesnít have holes for the window washer jets so Iíll have to figure something out for that or just not use them. Going to leave it clean and no badges or for right now.


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post #35 of 78 Old 11-06-2018, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thought Iíd share some of the under side of the old hood before paint - owner used it as a ledger for maintenance/ never seen that before.






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post #36 of 78 Old 12-02-2018, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Found this kit from dorman and got it to work barely as the angles just donít work very well.

They are adjustable but are spraying the bottom half of the window (better than nothing)

This shows the old cowl and the new older one without provisions for the jets.

Final position.


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post #37 of 78 Old 12-23-2018, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Been working on some new mirrors the old ones just didnít fit the style Iím going for. Settled on these bronco paddle ones from the yard. Unbolted old ones and cut down bolt studs and ground flat. Use some BLO to rust proof the cut off bolts

Had to drill 2 new holes and left the back plate bolted in place to give a more solid mount than just the sheet metal. I cut and ground off the arm comming off the mirrors to be able to flush mount.
Got some new longer hardware and used some clear silicone to form in between the door and mirror gasket.you have to remove inner door panel to get access and cut through the factory seal.
After getting bolts tight tape up and reinstall the panel/ window crank. There are some studs showing now but if I decide to keep the mirrors will eventually get body work done to fix the doors. So far I like the look and they have great visibility , they stay where I set them ( not like originals) and donít vibrate.




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post #38 of 78 Old 12-23-2018, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Yesterday did this

Today did this

Feb is right around the corner so I might not be exactly ready for this swap but this weekend seemed like a good one to get the ball rolling.


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post #39 of 78 Old 12-28-2018, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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I removed the core support thinking I could keep the hood on but with the engine leveler and all it just wasnít possible. I did get it out tho without totally removing the fenders. Just unbolted 90% of passengers fender and worked it out. It will help with working on the motor tho when I do drop it in and add all accessories and senors/ wiring. I made the mistake of not draining fluids before the pull , with working on both motors and disassembly it just gets messy (separation of trans you have to remove oil filter ) so just drain everything possible while itís off the ground. I picked up a full MSD Ignition system to get it firing and installed it on the 318 tbi before the pull to try and eliminate any problems on start up.

Could not get it running tho as the injectors will not shoot without signal from the older hall dissy. I had it hooked up the way MSD wanted but I wasnít getting constant power from the old coil + for the boxís lighter red wire. I did get it to combust/backfire once tho buy having the old dissy plugged in still laying on top off the motor and rerouted that 6al boxes wire to the batt (temp workaround). So pulled it all off and put back the old gear to get it running again. I figured if I got something to fire it should work if set up correctly on the 360.


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post #40 of 78 Old 12-28-2018, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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I got the wires that are pre made as I didnít want to mess with cutting/crimping them and ran into the issue that the main wire from the dissy to the blaster 2 coil wasnít plug and play. The connection on the coil was different (deeper). The coil did come with a plug / boot but required modifications to the wire so I sent it back and got the blaster 3 coil which has the extended male end that the plugs want. I also didnít need the resistor that I got with the coil as itís for a points/stock setup dissy and not needed for the MSD dissy,


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