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post #1 of 16 Old 01-17-2015, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
jimbones
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Unhappy seized engine HELP

"07 - 95K miles - mature driver - religious oil changer / top qual oil only - headed 60mph on highway - engine seemed to lose power - check eng and TPS light come on - pullover immed - shut off - restarted poor poor idle - shut off - get towed in to hear my engine is seized - mech pulls all plugs to insure engine not hydrolocked ( even tho no smoke prior to breakdown ) engine still locked solid NEED HELP - What the heck happened??? what can I ask mech to check next??? hes waitin' on me to call to decide on engine replacement - HOW COULD IT JUST SEIZE UP????
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post #2 of 16 Old 01-17-2015, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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BTW - Sorry ' new to sight ' - 2007 Dakota 3.7 V6 4WD
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 08:59 AM
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Engines don't usually seize after you shutting them down. I'm not saying your mechanic is lying to you, but that sounds questionable. I can think of no reason for an engine to seize without prior warning signs. Severe overheating will usually be preceded by steam from the engine compartment. Spun bearing will usually be preceded by looud knocking noise.

With that said, when was your last oil change and did you have someone do it or did you do it yourself? I knew a guy that took his car to a dealership for an oil change. They drained the oil out, replaced the filter and gave it back to him forgetting to refill it. He drove it all the way home and the engine blew up the next morning on his way to work.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 09:16 AM
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Did you or your mech check the oil?

If so what did it look like?

If not why not?

If everything was running normal - no strange noises, no different behavior, no squealing or knocking sounds, then the most likely cause is lack of lubrication. My wife had an engine on a Plymouth Sapporo lock up. Oil pump quit working without warning, thus lack of lubrication. She of course neglected to check the oil pressure before driving away. - Made it about two miles on a freeway, had to go out and drag her and the car home. Engine rebuilt under warranty.

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post #5 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 09:42 AM
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get towed in to hear my engine is seized
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I'm not saying your mechanic is lying to you, but that sounds questionable.
X2! I would go there and pull the stick to see if it has any oil. If so then ask the mechanic to turn the crank manually. If he refuses he's lying and looking for a pay day. Could just take it someplace else to get a second opinion.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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I change oil personally every 3000-3500 - buy only top qual oil- engine burns zero oil between changes- yes dipstick full - looked waiting on tow-mech pulled all my plugs and showed me engine locked - next gonna drain oil and inspect-then pop a camera in crank to look- 95k miles only on a totally quiet smooth engine - cant figure - mature smooth driver- zero ind -drove for an hr prior perfect- then at 60mph engine hesitated,gave me the feeling of driving on highway rumble stips(that type vibration) "check engine and TPS light came on - I pulled over immed and had towed - cant believe engine is locked up-mech showed me so no BS story to me- all sparkplugs been removed , engine wont spin - so weird its killing me-
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 01:25 PM
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You state that engine won't spin. Is it won't spin with starter by turning key or won't budge either direction with wrench on crank? (be aware turning an engine backwards is not good for timing chain tensioners and will loosen crank bolt. Usually a broken cam/crank/chain will allow slight movement of crank with wrench before the feeling of hitting something. seized bearings are a different story. don't overlook the possibility of torque converter bolts backing out, starter seized or any accessory seized(remove serp belt).
Also look for any new oil leaks (hole in block from rod failure). Oil level and coolant level should also be checked.
What is TPS light? ETC Electronic throttle control(lightning bolt)?

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post #8 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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wont crank with starter - oil and antifreeze levels full - outside engine totally dry(no oil, fluid leaking) and yes (lightining bolt dash light) means throttle position sensor malfunction or something -I know mech will isolate further for me soon - ie; remove serpentine belt, remove trans cover etc to see if torque conv bolt hanging up engine -I just cant believe a perfect quiet running engine crapped out - gotta pull valve covers off too and look for valve train damage too - just too odd with such low miles - don't haul,tow,or snowplow with truck (gee bet some reading think 'what you do with truck then??")
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-18-2015, 05:35 PM
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If it won't crank with starter AND you have a seized motor you will hear a loud clunk of the starter engaging the flywheel when you turn the key to the start position. Sometimes you will see the pulleys on the front of the motor jump a little. If you do NOT hear this clunk turn the engine at crankshaft with wrench. if the motor turns with a wrench it is not seized.

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post #10 of 16 Old 01-19-2015, 06:48 AM
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X2. Still don't know if it will turn with a wrench on the crank. You need to find out.
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-19-2015, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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trucks sitting out back of shop - so far all they did was pull all plugs - tried turning engine with starter - I watched - engine pulleys did jump ever so slightly - they didn't drain oil yet - but spun off filter and tore it open to reveal filter element paper looking for filings etc- didn't see any - tellin me engines seized need to pull - I asked 'any chance a locked alternator/accessory pump etc" - cause chevy dealer mech told me he knew a guy who pulled motor only to find out alternator seized - this mech tellin me he don't think that's it but will look during engine pull as hes getting started on - so now it sits for "bay time" etc - tomorrow hes gonna drain oil out in back lot into a clean pan and inspect
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post #12 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 11:40 AM
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He will check for a seized accessory during engine pull?

You need to find a different shop. Pulling the engine is what you after you properly diagnose the problem. This character never even put a breaker bar on it to roll by hand? Remove the belts and try it? This guy is highly questionable. I understand that noone wants to pay to have their vehicle towed from one shop to another, but you really need a second opinion here.

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post #13 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 02:58 PM
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your going to end up paying more in shop time tearing it apart when you can just drop in a used engine quicker and cheaper

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post #14 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 03:07 PM
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Not if the problem is a $50 water pump. Troubleshoot the problem and then determine the solution. Do you buy a new house everytime the toilet backs up?

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post #15 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Totally appreciate you guys spottin my posts- I know this shop for 15yrs - make fedex dels daily - 3 great mechs- they do tremendous work on all cars-talked to him today- gonna start pullin motor- and assured me he will check all front end accsrys-as he gets started-if by god he finds a locked up alternator etc- he certainly aint still pullin my motor- but he wanted me to know and approve- once its in the shop hes moving forward- cutting me a nice break 'all labor not to exceed $1300' - cause I del his crap daily and hes cutting me on his labor costs a bit-let you know how goes soon
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post #16 of 16 Old 01-20-2015, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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And yeah hes droppin in a used engine - hes reachin out to his contacts to find one - aint tearing this down to repair - way too costly
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