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post #41 of 45 Old 08-08-2009, 11:28 PM
Sharkey
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Here is a link to a video of the Dakota 6 spd.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhI-HI7JSRI

2001 Ram 1500, 360, 33x12.50x17 Mtz, Pacesetter Longtubes, True Duals with FM Super 44s, Hughes FI intake, PIE/EQ 2.02 heads, SCT by Hemifever, Msd 6A, 4.10 gears, KC 150 Watt Daylighters
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post #42 of 45 Old 08-09-2009, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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that was pritty friggen sweet and one good lookn truck

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post #43 of 45 Old 08-10-2009, 04:00 PM
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Sounds like you need to think about your battle plan a little bit.

Building a 900-1,000 horsepower race engine isn't easy, even with a well stocked bank account.
You want to build a drag racer with a manual transmission?
All my cars are sticks even the cars that are more drag cars than street cars, however I rarely get them to the track.
You mention wanting a stick because it's fun, but losing to a 350 Horsepower Camaro in the first round because it isn't very consistent isn't much fun either.
There is soo much more than just 1,000 horsepower and 4-speed transmissions that make up a vehicle.
A diesel transmission may be able to handle the power under normal driving conditions, but to withstand maximum power slam shifting that drag racing requires it is still going to need some serious beefing up.
A well built engine is SERIOUS money, I don't care how you slice it.
If it's a drag only vehicle start with a big block. It isn't uncommon to get 550 cubic inches out of them nowdays.
Since you mentioned aftermarket blocks, they can be purchased all the way up to support a 960 cubic inche engine!!

Once you spend the cash building a 1,000 horsepower race engine you will need to run serious fuel to feed it.

This is totally ignoring the fact that you will need a hell of a chassis to handle that kind of power reliably and be at all useful.

Good thing this is just a dream.

1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee, A12, 440 Six Pack H.P. engine, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10 rear
1974 Plymouth Duster 360, 360 factory H.P. engine, 4-speed, 8-3/4" 3.55 rear
2001 Dodge Ram 1500, SLT, Q.C., 2wd, 5.9L, auto, 9-1/4" 3.55 rear, 265/65R-17 tires, 5,350 lbs.

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post #44 of 45 Old 08-10-2009, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Sounds like you need to think about your battle plan a little bit.

Building a 900-1,000 horsepower race engine isn't easy, even with a well stocked bank account.
You want to build a drag racer with a manual transmission?
All my cars are sticks even the cars that are more drag cars than street cars, however I rarely get them to the track.
You mention wanting a stick because it's fun, but losing to a 350 Horsepower Camaro in the first round because it isn't very consistent isn't much fun either.
There is soo much more than just 1,000 horsepower and 4-speed transmissions that make up a vehicle.
A diesel transmission may be able to handle the power under normal driving conditions, but to withstand maximum power slam shifting that drag racing requires it is still going to need some serious beefing up.
A well built engine is SERIOUS money, I don't care how you slice it.
If it's a drag only vehicle start with a big block. It isn't uncommon to get 550 cubic inches out of them nowdays.
Since you mentioned aftermarket blocks, they can be purchased all the way up to support a 960 cubic inche engine!!

Once you spend the cash building a 1,000 horsepower race engine you will need to run serious fuel to feed it.

This is totally ignoring the fact that you will need a hell of a chassis to handle that kind of power reliably and be at all useful.

Good thing this is just a dream.
Thks for the info but yes I know it will not be easy or cheep in any manner. However I know people that build exhibition pull trucks and race cars and they will help me out if I need the help. Be it with info, parts, tools, or even a helping hand. With that being said though I do plan to take the biggest part of the build by myself.
Quote:
You mention wanting a stick because it's fun, but losing to a 350 Horsepower Camaro in the first round because it isn't very consistent isn't much fun either.
True but I do not just want a stick just because it’s fun I firmly believe that if you know what you’re doing and have the right set up a stick will always beat an auto. You also get a far better feel of what’s going on with your engine and tranny IMO. For the fuel and chassis like I said I know people that will help me get the right fuel and build the best frame for what I need. I did not know that there where blocks that could take 960 cubic inches though but I know those will be about two or three times the price of a R3 block and I don’t need the biggest block to be faster than most . Thks for the info though lots of good points and good things to keep in mind. What kind of set up are you using in your street/strip cars?

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post #45 of 45 Old 08-10-2009, 07:42 PM
daniel_depetro
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I have several cars that are just use stock high compression engines with bolt ons, however I have one pretty hot small block, a pretty hot 440, and my favorite is a ~450 cubic inch stroked low deck (400)!
As far as the chassis go they are pretty simple most are stock with the performance springs/shocks/bushings with the largest rear tires I can get under them without cutting the framerails.
I have a couple cars with frame rail connectors and like the coupes for the added stiffness.

1969-1/2 Dodge Super Bee, A12, 440 Six Pack H.P. engine, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10 rear
1974 Plymouth Duster 360, 360 factory H.P. engine, 4-speed, 8-3/4" 3.55 rear
2001 Dodge Ram 1500, SLT, Q.C., 2wd, 5.9L, auto, 9-1/4" 3.55 rear, 265/65R-17 tires, 5,350 lbs.
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